The Blade or Owner ?

[iamnothim]

I have owned a TS55 REQ for some time. I've used Festool blades and others. I think I'm going back to Festool.    Nonetheless.

I purchased a Forrest Woodworker I.    I can barely get it thru 5/4 soft maple.  It burns it front to back .
I included a picture of the blade to see if I put it on backwards.  I've been having some real cognitive issues lately.  So take a look.please.

 

[AlexThePalex]

Wow, that's some serious burning, almost as if the teeth aren't properly aligned or the blade is warped. Or just way too dull.

 

[flair woodworks]

Setup looks fine. How many teeth on the blade? Was that cut made in one pass? What if you try two passes - one at half depth?

 

[ryanjg117]

Do you have the 12 tooth blade? That's usually what I use to cut anything beyond super soft wood or plywood.

 

[Birdhunter]

One possibility is that neither the blade nor the owner is at fault.

If the wood is releasing inherent tension and pressing (warping) against the blade, burning like this can happen.

I’ve had this happen on even my big SawStop table saw.

 

[Roachmill]

It sounds like it's slow going so I'd query sharpness of the blade resulting in slow feed rate and Mr Burns coming to visit [eek]

Some of the teeth on the close-up of the blade look "not right" (shorter than the others); the ones immediately to the left of the spiral in particular. I'd try a different crosscut blade if you have one in good shape.

 

[chrisrosenb]

The blade has chipped, broken & missing teeth. It looks like it has gotten into some steel.
There is a missing tooth below the splinter guard & several chipped & broken teeth behind the missing tooth. The splinter guard is cracked.

 

[tjbnwi]

I no longer use any Forest blades. I've had nothing but problems with them.

Tom

 

[jeffinsgf]

Wrong blade. WWI is a negative rake blade made specifically for manufactured material...great on melamine. For solid stock and most plywood you want a WWII.

That said, I've had the best luck in my track saw by sticking with Festool blades.

 

[RKA]

The blade has chipped, broken & missing teeth. It looks like it has gotten into some steel.
There is a missing tooth below the splinter guard & several chipped & broken teeth behind the missing tooth. The splinter guard is cracked.

Hit the nail on the head.  That blade has been trashed.  Was it purchased supposedly new or is it a used blade?

 

[iamnothim]

First off WOW!  Thanks for all the responses. I haven't been on the board for a long time and my heart is a tittel (flutter, winker) that I wasn't forgotten

Holy shredo man look at the teeth!  My guess it happened when I cut 1/4" strips of polycarbonate.  As I recall I got this blade for that purpose because it has the right rake etc.  I just re-read the description and it does not mention plastic.  Guess it's not a "Plasticworker"
Back to reality.  Pretty darn fragile many, man blades are ok with plastics

Jeff:  Festool Blades= [smile]  I always get sucked into different sh...  Forrest has been out a very long time and I've been wanting one.
Alex:  The blade maybe had 40 passes...I think it's plastic sheet = mangled teeth  (Thanks for posting)one: 

Side Note:  Since June of 2015 I have owned a Tenryu PSW-16052CB2TK 160mm Plunge-Cut Saw Blade 52T for FESTOOL TS55
the Kerf is a "Nano 0.063"  The cuts will be glass
I could not make the riving knife work.  So I made an unapproved Back-O-The-Shed Mod.

Link to Blade

 

[chrisrosenb]

This is the blade I use for cutting plastics.

Plastic laminate blade

 

[Getmaverick]

I have been using that blade for 2 years now. I use it on plywood and it does great. Probably need to get it sharpened now that I'm thinking about it. I use a 12 tooth Festool for my lumber and hardwood.

 

[iamnothim]

I'm going to chalk the woodworker I up to not enough research and misuse. Expensive lesson.  I'll stick with what I have that works.

Many thanks to everyones for taking time to post.
Luke