The Dutchmen (not the song)

tjbnwi

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Joined
May 12, 2008
Messages
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A break-in necessitated the repair of this door jamb.

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Quater sawn white oak glue up dutchmen. Hot melt glue used to hold it to the jamb.

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Vectoro used to cut the horizontal joints. Having the dutchmen glue in place made for accurate cuts.

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Aligning the guide rail to the dutchmen was a simple matter of placing the anti splinter strip against the dutchmen. Using the hollie rail made it easy to mount the rail with screws.

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I purposely over cut, made it easy to remove the damaged piece.

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Test fit.

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Installed with glue and GRK trim screws.

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A little bondo to fill the horizontal joints.

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A touch of glazing.

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Sanded and primed.

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Paint and strike.

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Mullion installed.

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Done

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Tom

 

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The missing

Paint and strike.

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Mullion installed

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Done

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Tom

 

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[member=4105]tjbnwi[/member]

Nice job!  With using the white oak and cutting a nice even glue joint, it should be stronger than the original.

Thanks for sharing all the steps and photos.  It was very helpful to see how you did it.

Mike A.

BTW, is the routed channel for the screws or was there another reason?
 
The door bell is Class II wired. Need the channel to get the wire to the door bell button.

Tom
 
Very cool technique. Liked how you screwed the rail to the jamb to cut it out.

Thanks for the detailed photos.

neil
 
Nice repair Tom. I hope that the break-in did not happen at your home! Did they catch the criminal(s)?

Daniel
 
Runhard said:
Nice repair Tom. I hope that the break-in did not happen at your home! Did they catch the criminal(s)?

Daniel

Not our home. It is a home that is for sale, the owner has already moved into their new home, no one was there at the time. They now have someone living in the home until the house sells.

Prior to repairing the jamb I had to repair the door from the foot impacts to get the door open. One of those times suction cups and Bondo really came in handy, could not heat the door for lead due to the foam insulation.

Doubt they'll ever be connected to this if they are caught. The home has CPVC water lines. all the wiring is in EMT, all they could get were the 2 A-coils and 2 condenser coils, a lot of work for very little money in their pockets. Costs for repairs will be around $7000.00

Tom

 
tjbnwi said:
They now have someone living in the home until the house sells.

Around here if you are away and don't have someone checking the house, insurance won't cover for damage.

tjbnwi said:
Costs for repairs will be around $7000.00

Probably got lucky could have been worse. You doing all the work?
 
Tim Raleigh said:
tjbnwi said:
They now have someone living in the home until the house sells.

Around here if you are away and don't have someone checking the house, insurance won't cover for damage.

tjbnwi said:
Costs for repairs will be around $7000.00

Probably got lucky could have been worse. You doing all the work?

They did check the home every day, I drove by it at least 5 times a week on my way home from various jobs. This occurred around 2 AM according to the police report.

I'll set AC units the day of the closing----if/when they sell the house. Pretty common around here not to have the AC condensers set on a new home until the closing.

Tom
 
"it aint much, if it aint Dutch"
nice job, we Dutch like it cheap as you all know........ just kidding, but we do got a lot of burglar-damages around here.
 
Tom - This isn't a critique.. I'm just genuinely curious to hear your thoughts.

Do you think those vertical "over-cuts" that you made to minimize the replacement wood length will end up compromising the strength of that repaired section should another forced entry occur?  I'm not sure what I think - I do have pretty extensive Bondo experience and it's been known to pop off of different surfaces without much force.  That sentence wasn't an allusion to my thinking that the Bondo would pop out, but more that Bondo doesn't have as great a holding power as some think. 

I would think that since those vertical cuts extend past the replacement piece it would make that section of the original wood easier to break off should another criminal put foot or crowbar into the door again.

[EDIT]  Some of my orientation and wording didn't make sense so I fixed it.
 
marmot said:
Tom - This isn't a critique.. I'm just genuinely curious to hear your thoughts.

Do you think those vertical "over-cuts" that you made to minimize the replacement wood length will end up compromising the strength of that repaired section should another forced entry occur?  I'm not sure what I think - I do have pretty extensive Bondo experience and it's been known to pop off of different surfaces without much force.  That sentence wasn't an allusion to my thinking that the Bondo would pop out, but more that Bondo doesn't have as great a holding power as some think. 

I would think that since those vertical cuts extend past the replacement piece it would make that section of the original wood easier to break off should another criminal put foot or crowbar into the door again.

[EDIT]  Some of my orientation and wording didn't make sense so I fixed it.

I take no offense to any comments or questions. I learn more when I'm questioned than when I ask one...

I don't believe the over cuts will have any affect on the strength of the original jamb. The amount of over cut was about 2", so total cut threw was only 1/8-1/4" past the dutchman horizontal cut. Any impact from the outside would compress the cut, not open it. Between the glue, screws and material used I have no doubt this jamb is stronger than the original pine jamb.

The Bondo is there only as a filler. I know Bondo has no structural integrity and will release/crack if the base material is flexed. As I mentioned in another post, I still use auto body solder (lead) in critical repair areas on bodywork.

Tom
 
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