The Festool House

Kit,
the big ass speed square is an 18" precision triangle from woodpeck.com. It is sweet.

Eiji

I have to give Kit Camp some props on the excellent Miter Saw review in last FineHomebuilding's issue. And he also helped install the t&g ceiling at the Entry. And also gave me a hand lifting up the massive beams surrounding it.
 
Wow Thanks for the great pictures. Is the TS75 very hard to control when it is tilted for a bevel like that? I'm on the fence right now trying to decide on a TS55 or TS75
 
verl said:
Wow Thanks for the great pictures. Is the TS75 very hard to control when it is tilted for a bevel like that? I'm on the fence right now trying to decide on a TS55 or TS75

verl,

the TS75 is not hard to control. I would use the same technique sawing bevels with the TS55. The TS55 being smaller and lighter is alot easier on you if you're using it all day. I would have prefered the smaller saw on this job, but went with the TS75 since I had to make the entry doors which are 2 1/4" thick.

Eiji
 
If you read my first post I stated that I would be in awe.
I must admit I was wrong this is so far beyond awe I do not know what to say impeccable.
Now I must contemplate whether my daughter needs a collage education.

Tom

PS I may have to leave this site except as a lurker for couple of years. 
 
tjbnwi said:
If you read my first post I stated that I would be in awe.
I must admit I was wrong this is so far beyond awe I do not know what to say impeccable.
Now I must contemplate whether my daughter needs a collage education.

Tom

PS I may have to leave this site except as a lurker for couple of years.  

College vs. Festool

I think they are about the same price. ;D  But you have to support her in what she wants to pursue as a career.

Why are you leaving?

Eiji
 
During this project I did not photograph a lot of the stages or steps, but here are a couple of shots of my set up for cutting some 18' miters.
 
What's that orange thing you have hooked up to your saw?  ;D  Thanks for all the wok posting these pics, good luck with the contest.
 
Eiji Fuller said:
I almost forgot about the garage door column and beam.

The beam is a little over 18' long and it is mitered. Take a look at the middle of the beam to see the splice used to make two 12 footers into one 18 footer. Only with the TS75 of 55 can you do this.

The existing garage door will be replaced to match the trim work.

Eiji,

Fantastic workmanship.  Where is the splice in the garage beam?  I cannot see it in the photo you posted.
Are the wood faces that I see in the photos veneer or have you been able to work with solid wood [mahogany?] lumber of such quality?

Dave R.
 
Dave Ronyak said:
Where is the splice in the garage beam? 

the splice is about 4' long and is at the center of the long span.

Dave Ronyak said:
I cannot see it in the photo you posted.
Dave R.

That was the whole idea.  8)  :D
 
Eiji,

OK, what is the direction of the splice?  From lower left to upper right?  I'm guessing your splice was not the usual scarfing cut used by carpenters in the past, and that the splice you made involved  longer, shallow angle beveled cuts together with careful grain matching.  There are two 30 ft long beams (doubled up 2x16s or 2 x 18s) holding up the ceiling in a room of my house, ~27 ft of each is covered with oak boards, using scarf cuts, no grain matching.  This was built >20 years ago, long before I became owner. 

Dave R.
 
Dave Ronyak said:
Eiji,

OK, what is the direction of the splice?  From lower left to upper right? 
yes
 I'm guessing your splice was not the usual scarfing cut used by carpenters in the past, and that the splice you made involved  longer, shallow angle beveled cuts together with careful grain matching.  There are two 30 ft long beams (doubled up 2x16s or 2 x 18s) holding up the ceiling in a room of my house, ~27 ft of each is covered with oak boards, using scarf cuts, no grain matching.  This was built >20 years ago, long before I became owner. 

to cut the splice I lay out the boards overlapped at the middle, that way I can see what the grain is doing. I make adjustment if necessary by flipping the boards around until I get the best match. I then lay a guide rail over the overlapped section at an angle that maximizes the splice length. cut through both peices with the TS saw. Remove the cutoffs and lay the cuts together. Every time I have done this I have gotten movement in the wood so a jointing cut is necessary. Domino/glue/clamp/sand the joint. the coolest part is that I did the same thing on the bottom part of the beam and when mitered together it looks like a solid beam that has scarf/splice.
Dave R.
 
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