The MFK 700 EQ, edge trimming router.

Brice,

I checked it out. The vertical orientation in the 1.5 deg base is 1.5 off vertical. It still could get you very close as a dowel trimmer.
 
Brice,

Nice write up - keep going!

I have a PC router with an adapter from Bettersly that I use to trim edgebanding.  It does a nice job, but you can only use a "V" type of bit and the bit seems to get gummed up with the adhesive from the edgebanding.  I'm considering upgrading if only for the superior dust collection.

Do you need to use a special (expensive) Festool bit to trim edgebanding and is there any reason to believe that the adhesive on the edgebanding will not gum up the bit in the same way that the "V" shaped bit gets gummed up?

Thanks,
Roland
 
Roland Chung said:
Brice,

Nice write up - keep going!

I have a PC router with an adapter from Bettersly that I use to trim edgebanding.  It does a nice job, but you can only use a "V" type of bit and the bit seems to get gummed up with the adhesive from the edgebanding.  I'm considering upgrading if only for the superior dust collection.

Do you need to use a special (expensive) Festool bit to trim edgebanding and is there any reason to believe that the adhesive on the edgebanding will not gum up the bit in the same way that the "V" shaped bit gets gummed up?

Thanks,
Roland

Roland, pretty much any edge trimming bit will work in the MFK, so no, you don't have to use a "special" Festool bit. Unfortunately, when trimming edge banding the adhesive "gum up" is always an issue.
 
PIC_1024sm.jpg

The vertical base and the 1.5 degree horizontal base can be changed without tools, one thumb screw mounts the bases to the motor. This design makes swapping bases fast and easy, two things all woodworker can appreciate.

PIC_1027sm.jpg

The motor unit, 720 watts (6 amps) with MMC electronics, this gives the MFK features that include, soft start, variable speed, thermal overload protection and constant speed under load. For those of you with the Trion barrel grip jigsaw the MFK's motor unit will look and feel familiar, its the same motor and housing. The power switch and spindle lock are also seen in this picture. I was surprised at the power the MFK has for a 6 amp motor, it cuts grooves and the female portion of sliding dovetails joints with relative ease.

PIC_1026sm.jpg

The back end of the MFK, Plug-It cord and variable speed control.

PIC_1029sm.jpg

The motor unit has two studs for attaching the bases. One stud has a notch in it, this stud goes in the hole with the thumb screw on the base.

PIC_1033pism.jpg

The motor unit's two mounting studs insert into the holes in the base (vertical base show here).

PIC_1040sm.jpg

Tighten the thumb screw and the base is attached, very simple.

Text and pictures, copyright 2008, Brice Burrell

More to come......

 
Brice,

I had a chance to see the MFK 700 this weekend.  I placed the motor in the horizontal base, and unless you have a really short bit, I don't see how it would work for trimming dowels flush.

Tom.
 
tvgordon said:
Brice,

I had a chance to see the MFK 700 this weekend.  I placed the motor in the horizontal base, and unless you have a really short bit, I don't see how it would work for trimming dowels flush.

Tom.

Tom, you're right, you need a short bit. There are plenty of bits that will work, its just matter of owning them and I do. I'll include pictures of my setup in the review. I'll be adding more today.
 
greg mann said:
Brice,

I checked it out. The vertical orientation in the 1.5 deg base is 1.5 off vertical.

I must not have been paying attention when this was discussed but,

1. what is the purpose of the 1.5 degree tilt
2. what kind of bit do you use?
3. are there any US designed router that do this, if so which?
4. or, do we just use special bits in a different way in NA?
 
Michael Kellough said:
1. what is the purpose of the 1.5 degree tilt
2. what kind of bit do you use?
3. are there any US designed router that do this, if so which?
4. or, do we just use special bits in a different way in NA?

The answer to the reason for the tilt is a clever solution when applying a hardwood trim piece to a veneered ply and then going back to mill the edge next

to the veneer without gouging the veneer surface. 2. I don't have one yet, and 3. I'm personally not aware of a US manufacture that does this, I'm not even sure

if  VIRUTEX Tools does this. (a French company that focuses on trimming tools for the professional)  4. personally getting to the final passes in the past I would have used

hand plane.
 
Michael, the 1.5 degree horizontal base tilts the base 15. off the centerline of the bit, this produces a very slight chamfer. The purpose this to prevent cutting into the horizontal surface when edge trimming. Here's a model, veneer plywood with edge banding, the bit is held at 1.5 degree (exaggerated angle in the model) to prevent cutting the face veneer.

No special bit needed and I don't know of any other router that does this.
 
The Virutex looks like a nice trimmer but it lacks dust collection. I've been doing a lot of laminate work with
my Bosch Colt lately and can attest how much better life would be if I could capture the dust at the tool.

I just purchased the new MFT/3 plus a bunch of other accessories leaving me somewhat cash poor. The MFK 700 EQ
is on the horizon as the next addition for me. Luckily, this is a hobby and not an occupation.
 
Brice Burrell said:
Michael, the 1.5 degree horizontal base tilts the base 15. off the centerline of the bit, this produces a very slight chamfer. The purpose this to prevent cutting into the horizontal surface when edge trimming. Here's a model, veneer plywood with edge banding, the bit is held at 1.5 degree (exaggerated angle in the model) to prevent cutting the face veneer.

No special bit needed and I don't know of any other router that does this.

Thanks for the cool illustration Brice. But, if "The vertical orientation in the 1.5 deg base is 1.5 off vertical" isn't the bit in the illustration 90 degrees off axis?
Or, are there two ways to install the motor in that base?
If so, why?

I'm afraid I'm asking basic questions now and haven't done my homework.

If you can put motor in the 1.5 d base in a vertical orientation then it might be better to use a bit like the one in Forrest's post and run the router so the edge band is sheared in the direction of the broad surface. This might reduce tear-out and chipping.
 
Brice Burrell said:
Roland Chung said:
Brice,

Nice write up - keep going!

I have a PC router with an adapter from Bettersly that I use to trim edgebanding.  It does a nice job, but you can only use a "V" type of bit and the bit seems to get gummed up with the adhesive from the edgebanding.  I'm considering upgrading if only for the superior dust collection.

Do you need to use a special (expensive) Festool bit to trim edgebanding and is there any reason to believe that the adhesive on the edgebanding will not gum up the bit in the same way that the "V" shaped bit gets gummed up?

Thanks,
Roland

Roland, pretty much any edge trimming bit will work in the MFK, so no, you don't have to use a "special" Festool bit. Unfortunately, when trimming edge banding the adhesive "gum up" is always an issue.

Have you tried using the trimmer bits with the Euro square bearing? I really like those.
Them or the regular solid carbide single flute cutters work well on gummy plastic laminates
when used with a spray can of Lami-Lube.
Will any of these bits matter with the way the cutter is held?
Will use of lubricants for plastic laminates be necessary?
 
Did you notice that model you referenced has a 5/16" collet only?
The MFK 700 has a 1/4" plus an 8mm collet included which seems like a more useful tool.
 
PIC_1086sm.jpg

The vertical base can fit up to a 1" diameter bit. On he US version, the base is threaded (tapped) for standard Porter Cable style guide bushings (now if I could only find metric sized PC bushings). Phenolic base to prevent scratching the of work surface.

Picture1nsm.jpg

With guide bushing you can use the MFK with dovetail jigs, templates and of course, the MFS template system.

PIC_1060sm.jpg

The vertical base has a chip deflector with a vac port, one thumb screw attaches the assembly. Vac port fits both the D36 and D27 hoses.

PIC_1049pism.jpg

A view from the top of the vertical base, you can see one of the two attachment points for the edge guide (arrow far left), the vac port built into the base, fits the D27 hose (arrow upper center) and one of the four bit centerlines (arrow lower right).

Text and pictures, copyright 2008, Brice Burrell
 
Woodenfish said:
Did you notice that model you referenced has a 5/16" collet only?
The MFK 700 has a 1/4" plus an 8mm collet included which seems like a more useful tool.

No I didn't notice. That's too bad.
 
Brice,

I am interested in the 0 deg. horizontal base. Will you be reviewing that as well? Is there room in the systainer for it? it looks a lil tight.
The 0 deg base is needed if you apply your veneer after edge banding. It would also be useful in trimming edge banding around an outside corner since with the 1.5 deg base the bit height would be too high to cut the banding flush as you go around the corner.

Eiji
 
Eiji Fuller said:
Brice,

I am interested in the 0 deg. horizontal base. Will you be reviewing that as well? Is there room in the systainer for it? it looks a lil tight.
The 0 deg base is needed if you apply your veneer after edge banding. It would also be useful in trimming edge banding around an outside corner since with the 1.5 deg base the bit height would be too high to cut the banding flush as you go around the corner.

Eiji

Eiji, I don't have the 0 degree horizontal base so I can't comment on it. I'd say you're right, no room in the Systainer for the 0 degree base.
 
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