The top on my MFT/3 is what type of MDF?

[mastercabman]

Try MDO

 

[Iwood75]

Thanks for the encouragement, Qwas.  

About "doing it myself"... I had considered finding a 20mm Forstner bit and building a jig to insure perpendicular drilling, using my MFT top for the pattern, marking the center points of each hole onto the new top by hand using the 20mm bit itself as a center punch, etc. but finding the bit, or 20mm router bit (then I'd need to buy a "holy" rail and of course a new rail-matching router... hmmm). The searches proved frustrating, time consuming and more expensive than the CNC option, so DIY doesn't seem feasible for me... nor as accurate in the end as the CNC route.

I appreciate the great suggestion of producing more than one sheet. However, safely storing the spare(s) for an extended period would be impossible in my environment. If this venture proves out well, I can always order another, if needed 4-5-6, years out.

Mastercabman, thanks for the latest suggestion. I'll check-out MDO too.

Thanks again for all your input. Feeling I'm not "in this alone" really does help.

 

[Iwood75]

Well, my large MFT-like table is nearly finished! 

Material I selected is 3/4" Moisture Resistant MDF. Final cost for the drilled 4'x8' sheet, $127.00. 20mm holes were CNC drilled and are clean and very accurately positioned on 96mm centers.

The hole sizes however do vary very slightly – about the same tolerances as my MFT/3 table's holes. I used a very tight fitting custom Qwas dog to check hole sizes. Since it's a perfect "friction fit" in some holes and has the tiniest wiggle in others, it serves as an amazingly sensitive feeler gauge, identifying even the slightest variations. Curiously, I found alternating tight and loose entire "rows" of holes in the new sheet. I called the CNC vendor and learned the explanation... these CNC holes were drilled simultaneously with 2 bits. Both are new Amana 20mm bits which, while I'm sure within Amana's tolerances, are infinitesimally different. Still, they should prove OK since the dogs are always pushed to the "back" of the holes anyway when in use. At least, that's my theory.

I'll report back in a few months about how the material is holding up. It's so pristine... I hate the thought of making that first cut in it.

Thanks for your input along the way. It really did prove very helpful.

 

[ScotF]

Take some pics if you get a chance -- would love to see the top.  Also, you opted for Medex or a different brand? 

Thanks for posting this thread.

Scot

 

[Iwood75]

Scot, the CNC vendor obtained the Moisture Resistant MDF for me and I never asked for the brand name. I'll inquire and let you know. And, I'll snap a few pictures after I add the top trim next week. I've tried to post photos here before without success. I'm on a MAC and that usually calls for a workaround. So, I'll probably need a little advice.

 

[peter halle]

Regarding posting images, you shouldn't have any issues because of a Mac.  I am a Mac also.  Here is a link to using iPhoto to ready your images, etc.  iPhoto and images here

Peter

 

[Joe Smith]

Well, my large MFT-like table is nearly finished! 

Material I selected is 3/4" Moisture Resistant MDF. Final cost for the drilled 4'x8' sheet, $127.00. 20mm holes were CNC drilled and are clean and very accurately positioned on 96mm centers.

I'll report back in a few months about how the material is holding up. It's so pristine... I hate the thought of making that first cut in it.

Thanks for your input along the way. It really did prove very helpful.

I thought about this thread a little bit over the past few weeks.  These above statements seem to support my thoughts on this, which are that I would buy the big box MDF and not worry about it.  One, it is a workbench and it is meant to be used. So, it should not be viewed as a "pristine" anything.  Sure I like to keep my shop nice and presentable, but when it comes down to it, I do not want to worry about my workbench, especially if I am cutting into it with my TS55 ( I do not remember if you plan on using it for that purpose).

Second, I can get 4 sheets of MDF (lesser quality) for $127.  That just means, I can use it for its purpose, which is a workbench and replace it when it needs to be replace. If it gets wet by accident and unusable, I would just lift it up and replace it and continue on.  Even if I bought 2-3 sheets and had the CNC drilled so you get the exact spacing, it still is around the same amount.

Ultimately it does not matter, it is your shop and money, do what you want.

 

[Corwin]

Well, my large MFT-like table is nearly finished! 

Material I selected is 3/4" Moisture Resistant MDF. Final cost for the drilled 4'x8' sheet, $127.00. 20mm holes were CNC drilled and are clean and very accurately positioned on 96mm centers.

I'll report back in a few months about how the material is holding up. It's so pristine... I hate the thought of making that first cut in it.

Thanks for your input along the way. It really did prove very helpful.

I thought about this thread a little bit over the past few weeks.   These above statements seem to support my thoughts on this, which are that I would buy the big box MDF and not worry about it.  One, it is a workbench and it is meant to be used. So, it should not be viewed as a "pristine" anything.  Sure I like to keep my shop nice and presentable, but when it comes down to it, I do not want to worry about my workbench, especially if I am cutting into it with my TS55 ( I do not remember if you plan on using it for that purpose).

Second, I can get 4 sheets of MDF (lesser quality) for $127.  That just means, I can use it for its purpose, which is a workbench and replace it when it needs to be replace. If it gets wet by accident and unusable, I would just lift it up and replace it and continue on.  Even if I bought 2-3 sheets and had the CNC drilled so you get the exact spacing, it still is around the same amount.

Ultimately it does not matter, it is your shop and money, do what you want.

Joe,  It seems that you have totally missed the point...  The bulk of the $127.00 was likely the cost of machining those holes.  Much smarter to start with a moisture resistant product if you are going to spend the time and money having the holes machined.  Heck, at $127.00, that 4'x8' top is cheaper than a replacement MFT top from Festool.  Sounds to me like a good way to go.

 

[Iwood75]

Joe, the original price for a standard MDF drilled was $77.00. It went up $50 for the Moisture Resistant type. This is not meant to be a work bench. It was built to serve as my assembly table so the holes for clamping, etc. As such, the highest priority to me was flatness over time. My shop is in my unheated barn and humidity, my main enemy. Therefore, I felt that an additional $50 was a worthwhile "long term flatness" insurance investment. So, far, I haven't fastened the top down and it seems to lie there "flat as can be" under its own weight. I'm letting everything acclimate for a while so that I can plane or adjust the top framing if it decides to move before final fastening. So far, so good – even through a below freezing night, rainy days and 78 degree days, etc. No hot, humid summer yet... so we'll see.

 

[JeromeM]

, the highest priority to me was flatness over time. My shop is in my unheated barn and humidity, my main enemy. Therefore, I felt that an additional $50 was a worthwhile "long term flatness" insurance investment. So, far, I haven't fastened the top down and it seems to lie there "flat as can be" under its own weight. I'm letting everything acclimate for a while so that I can plane or adjust the top framing if it decides to move before final fastening. So far, so good – even through a below freezing night, rainy days and 78 degree days, etc. No hot, humid summer yet... so we'll see.

you may find no need to fasten it down.
I have 3 MFT style tops. The latest is in plywood and is fastened down as it is designed to rotate. Of the other 2 my first test top is small and gets moved and stood on its side so is screwed down the big one isn't fastened down and probably never will be. However, I have put them on a semi torsion box base so they aren't likely to deform. Also I used chipboard for the first 2 (and now about 4 years on they are in almost new condition) you can find detail at http://festoolownersgroup.com/member-projects/20mm-hole-on-a-96mm-grid-system-(mft-top-style)/msg78004/#msg78004 and http://meekings.selfip.com/nui/Groups-of-photos/Wood_work_etc/Pages/Workbench.html

 

[TomGadwa1]

To the OP  I too am  a MAC user and have no issues posting pictures. Please keep in mind the size limitation of the picture. If you are using a digital camera then I have found using the VGA setting for photo size works very well for posting ones pictures. If the picture is too large it will not post regardless of the type of personal computer that one is using. On iPhoto view the picture you want to post and click on the little i and the size of the picture in pixel dimensions and kilobytes will be displayed in a preview window. This will help to determine if the picture is one that can post or not. Try this out and I think you will g\have success in sharing your very good ideas with your fellow FOGGERS!
[attachimg=#1]
Picture of my KAPEX posted using 2010 vintage MAC MINI.
TO post click drop down for insert inline image. A bracketed box will appear like this:  [attachimg=#]. After the # type in an integer value for the number that will represent your picture. I.E. 1 for the first picture that you want to post, 2 for another one. You must have a bracketed box for each subsequent image that you wish to post. 
Click on Additional Options.
Next to Attach click on the Choose File button. Now iPhoto should let you preview the image that you would like to select. After confirming that the picture is not too large to post select it and it will appear next to the choose file button. If you want to post more than one image then click on more attachments and follow the above procedure.

 

[TomGadwa1]

Well I tried to show you what the dialog box for the insert inline image would look like but the application here thought I wanted to display my example picture again. Well this stuff is just a bunch of sand plastic and aluminum after all. LOL. [laughing] [laughing]

 

[Iwood75]

Scot,

Yes, the material IS Medex!

Thought I would pass on the contact info for my CNC vender for anyone in the Maryland/Pennsylvania area that might be interested in something similar. They said to mention that the price will reduce if they are drilling more than 1 sheet at a time.

Reisterstown Lumber Co.

Chuck Cray, PE, Structural Engineer, RLC Design and Engineering, LLC
13040 Old Hanover Rd, Reisterstown, MD 21136
phone 410.833.1300 / fax 410.833.6803 / cell 410.812.6851

Also, thanks Peter and Tom for the photo posting advice and link, etc. I'll be shooting and posting a few photos early next week.

 

[tmorton]

Tom, Can I ask what that is on the bottom of your Kapex UG stand. Both the green plate and the other part that goes around the swing out leg? Interesting that I have not seen these before.

Thanks
-Ty

To the OP  I too am  a MAC user and have no issues posting pictures. Please keep in mind the size limitation of the picture. If you are using a digital camera then I have found using the VGA setting for photo size works very well for posting ones pictures. If the picture is too large it will not post regardless of the type of personal computer that one is using. On iPhoto view the picture you want to post and click on the little i and the size of the picture in pixel dimensions and kilobytes will be displayed in a preview window. This will help to determine if the picture is one that can post or not. Try this out and I think you will g\have success in sharing your very good ideas with your fellow FOGGERS!
[attachimg=#1]
Picture of my KAPEX posted using 2010 vintage MAC MINI.
TO post click drop down for insert inline image. A bracketed box will appear like this:  [attachimg=#]. After the # type in an integer value for the number that will represent your picture. I.E. 1 for the first picture that you want to post, 2 for another one. You must have a bracketed box for each subsequent image that you wish to post. 
Click on Additional Options.
Next to Attach click on the Choose File button. Now iPhoto should let you preview the image that you would like to select. After confirming that the picture is not too large to post select it and it will appear next to the choose file button. If you want to post more than one image then click on more attachments and follow the above procedure.

 

[TomGadwa1]

The reason that you may not have seen the green plate and other attachment at the bottom of the Kapex UG Cart is because they are some accessories that I crafted up on my own. As I only have a two car garage that I can fill up with tools like an MFT3, cutting table, CT36 dust extractor with WCR1000, two really cool router tables, drill press on wheels, dovetailing station, and storage for my rails and clamps and on and on. I decided that my Kapex needed to be mobi;e as well. Thus I purchased a UG cart. The thing that I found lacking on the cart for shop use was the ability to safely and easily roll the Kapex around on the UG Cart. Tipping over $2100.00 worth of saw and stand if it gets away from you while moving it about did not appeal to me. Thus I designed a set of cantilevered casters that allow me to move the saw with ease and safety. The casters set outside of the UG stands footprint for added stability. They lock to hold the saw in place whilst cutting material. Part of my design criteria was to in no way modify or violate the UG Cart. I attach my caster set with a standard Kapex mounting set that works with the MFT tables. My design requires only two bolts for holding as the cantilever design has self holding in the other dimensions and is very solid too. The green plate is a support for a CT MIDI dust extractor that is dedicated for Kapex use. The space below the saw is perfect for this use as I do not transport my saw out of my shop. BUT if I wanted to use the UG Cart as FESTOOL thought it would be used, i.e. moving the saw to different job sites , I can set the stand back to original condition in about five minutes. Let me know if you would like more details. Always happy to share.  [smile]

 

[Alan m]

i wouldnt mind a few more pics

 

[TomGadwa1]

Okay I took some more pictures to show some details pertaining to the Cantilevered Castor set and Green Mounting Plate for the KAPEX UG Stand.
[attachimg=#1]
KAPEX on UG Cart with CT MIDI and Castors locked and ready to cut.
[attachimg=#2]
Fresh Cut.
[attachimg=#3]
Wheels chocked and saw leaned back for conversion to stock UG Cart.
[attachimg=#4]
Riser support block to ease conversion process.
[attachimg=#5]
CT MIDI removed from the Green Plate.
[attachimg=#6]
Green Plate which is held in place with UG Stand feet and lock knobs.
[attachimg=#7]
Green Plate removed with holders next to it.
[attachimg=#8]
Rear support detail on the Green Plate.
[attachimg=#9]
Cantilevered Castor Plate. Guess the paint on the Green Plate was not quite dry yet!
[attachimg=#10]
Castor Plate loose from UG Cart with KAPEX holders and UG Stand feet reattached. Castor Plate is now ready for removal.
[attachimg=#11]
KAPEX UG Stand in stock configuration.
[attachimg=#12]
Castor Plate with KAPEX hold downs.
[attachimg=#13]
Side view of Castor Plate.
[attachimg=#14]
Bottom view of Castor Plate.
[attachimg=#15]
Detail of castor mounting.
[attachimg=#16]
Three quarter view showing cantilever arm which supports the two by four castor mount.
[attachimg=#17]
Bottom view showing cutout detail to accommodate UG Stand clips.
[attachimg=#18]
Standard KAPEX hold downs used to fix the Castor Plate to the UG Stand.
[attachimg=#19]
Mounting hole front side of UG Stand.
[attachimg=#20]
Mounting hole rear side of UG Stand.
[attachimg=#21]
KAPEX with CT MIDI on Green Plate attached to Cantilevered Castor Plate mounted on the UG Stand ready to rock and roll. Time to convert from stock setup to my DELUXE setup is about eight minutes. Bear in mind that no KAPEX, UG Stand or CT MIDI was harmed during the conversion process or documentation process carried out here within.
And finally the parts used to construct the Green Plate and Cantilevered Castor Plate were some offcuts that I had laying around the shop. I employed dominos throughout for rigidity of the structure and obtained the green and gray paint at my nearby Lowes. 

 

[Iwood75]

Sorry for the delay in posting photos of the my new MFT-style table but I had to put the project on hold for a few weeks to handle a family health issue. All's well now. So, here's a description of a few features and photos.

The table measures approx. 4'x6'. It's just cobbled together from construction grade pine, scrounged from old workbenches and leftover from various past projects. The only new wood purchased were the 4 table top trim pieces.  It's height is 35.5" to serve as an extension table for the MFT... AND an outfeed table for my Inca 12" tablesaw... AND an assembly table. (A true "Multi-Function Table.")

For now, the MDF top and its frame are not attached to the base. They just float on 6 support blocks attached to the 2x6 legs. This allows for shimming at the blocks as (if) needed. I've been checking it regularly for warping/movement through frosty nights to 80 degree afternoons. It's remained remarkably flat... so far. We'll see what happens when the really hot humid weather arrives.
[attachthumb=#1]

For the top framing members, I used 1x4 material as apposed to wider 2x so for maximum access to all the holes. Then, there is a "sub-frame" of 2x4s perpendicular to the top ribs. I installed lag screws in the 2x4 directly under each top rib to support them and serve as adjustment screws which I can turn out/in to prevent sag or fine tune level, etc. So far, no adjustments have been needed.
[attachthumb=#2] 

Thanks again to all for your much appreciated council and encouragement. This is going to prove to be a really valuable addition to my shop!

 

[Alan m]

great job. id love  to have that kind of space to have a bench like that

 

[bigjonh]

That turned out really nice and useful. I am not to far from Reisterstown, about an hour. I think I will try to get one or two made.  I saw you posted the contact info before. I'll have to give them a call.