The TS 55 to cut down solid core doors?

[RPSmith]

Just when I thought I had answered the raging debate within myself (the TS 55 or 75?)...

I was curious what your experiences were with the 55 and cutting down solid core doors.

I know that it won't do a 2 1/4" door due to depth considerations, but those only constitute about 5% of the doors I handle.

A full 75% of the doors I cut are 1/34" solid core affairs.

Will the TS 55 handle these without complaint?  What would be the best blade for this application?  I'm both crosscutting (the stiles) and ripping (the bottom rail).

Thanks, RPS.

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

I have the 55 and I have cut many, many doors.  Most really, really old.

I have yet to want/need the 75.

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

We have a 30-day money-back guarantee. If you get one saw and decide within the first 30 days that you'd rather have the other, swap it out. Quick, easy, no-hassle.

 

[ccarrolladams]

The 55 or 75 in the name of the Festool plunge saws tells the maximum depth of cut without a guide rail. On a guide rail the TS55 provides 50mm of depth. just slightly less than 2"

I already owned 2 TS55 before I purchased my TS75. I bought the TS75 for its extra power when I need to cut extra-thick sheet goods. Since my business is cabinet making, I have not worked with a major door in decades. Several of the crafts people working for me do a wider range of woodworking. All of us own at least one TS55. I notice the fellows who do hang doors also own TS75.

The 55" (1400mm) guide rail is not quite long enough for a 48" cut with the TS75, but is enough to make a 42" cut. How often do you need to trim a door wider than 42"?  Normally the TS75 is sold with a 75" (1900mm) guide rail that is more than enough for 48" cuts using the TS75. I certainly can see that when trimming a narrower door using the shorter guide rail makes good sense.

 

[RPSmith]

Ccarol:  You give very well-thought out answers (you did the same on my other post regarding routers - though the post started out differently).  Thank you!

It seems a common trend that people own both but start with the 55.  Both have there place, but for my first purchase, I suppose I'm angling for versatility.  I'm also purchasing an MTF/3 table and can see how hefting around a 75 all day could get tiresome.  The 55 also has a higher teeth per inch quotient that I assume yields a smoother cut.

I do a fair amount of cabinet making myself.  The 55 is certainly geared toward the sheet-good side of things.  When I need to rip down thick lumber, there is always the table saw.

I think the decision would be made for me if the 55 could handle, without complaint, an 1 3/4" solid core door in one pass.  Darcy (I think that WarnerConst.'s name, forgive me if I'm wrong) seems to have handled all the doors that have come his way.  What blade is best for that purpose?

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

Depends on the door.

I have been using a 24T tenryu for my ripping and heavy cutting.  The 48T stock blade for everything else.

The will both leave you with a little clean up work but, better then other methods I have used.

 

[tiralie]

I have cut solid internal (MDF skin/stave core) doors in one pass with the 55 and had no problem with it.
The doors were heavy mothers, but the saw had no problem.
Like Warner I use the Tenryu blade.
A sharp Festool stock blade works well.
Tim

 

[Sparktrician]

I figure that since I'm cutting both stiles and rails with my TS55, the standard 48-tooth Festool blade works quite well and cuts very cleanly in both directions. 

[smile]

 

[Brice Burrell]

I'm another one that has cut plenty of doors with my TS55 and 24T Tenryu (in fact, I'm the one that put Darcy onto this blade).  Keep your blades clean and sharp and you're good to go.

 

[Tim Morris]

I have done many as well. All solid core. Wood veneered, mdf painted. pine core painted, etc. I have never wanted for more power or depth of cut. I'm running the stock sharp 48 tooth blade as well.

 

[Ken Nagrod]

I just use the TS 55 with the stock 48 tooth and take a nice easy cut so I don't overload the saw or go to slow and burn mark the door edges.  Before I had the TS 55, I used my Bosch worm drive with the stock blade for rough lumber and I never had a problem with that blade, blue tape and a score.

 

[woodnerd]

I recently used the TS55 to cut down a boatload of solid-core doors.  Using it with the MFT/3 made it a breeze.  You can see my setup in my MFT/3 review on my site, look about 2/3 of the way down under "It makes the TS55 shine", click on the photo for a larger view.

 

[billg71]

Haven't done any doors with the TS55(yet), my experience has been more in busting up sheet goods so I can't really address your question.

But I'll offer this: the TS55 slows down a lot when gang-cutting 2 sheets of 3/4 ply or ripping 2x stock. If I had do-overs I'd probably buy the TS75, then I could gang-cut 3 sheets with room to spare. The downside is, of course, the initial cost and the size and weight penalty. Regardless, I'd go with the TS75 if it were a first and (hopefully last) track saw purchase. IMO, the 55 is a bit lame when it comes to thicker stock, you may not need the capacity and power of the 75 all the time but it's nice to have it when you do.

Just my $.02 worth,
Bill

P.S. Anybody has a 75 they're tired of lugging around and want to trade down, get in touch! UPS is right down the street....  [big grin]

 

[Kodi Crescent]

The 55" (1400mm) guide rail is not quite long enough for a 48" cut with the TS75, but is enough to make a 42" cut. How often do you need to trim a door wider than 42"?  Normally the TS75 is sold with a 75" (1900mm) guide rail that is more than enough for 48" cuts using the TS75. I certainly can see that when trimming a narrower door using the shorter guide rail makes good sense.

If you order from a reputable dealer you can swap out the rail.  The stock rail on the 55 is 1400mm, but you can swap it for any of the other rails for the difference in cost.

 

[RPSmith]

Thanks all, for the input.

I decided to go with the 75 (after waaaaay too much hemming and hawing).

I figured that the extra power and depth, while not always needed, would be welcome more often than not.

I'm not psyched at the prospect of dragging that thing over an MFT table for extended period of time, but I've been man-handling a worm-drive Skil for almost two decades now.  How much longer can my right arm get!  [big grin]

 

[tiralie]

I'm not psyched at the prospect of dragging that thing over an MFT table for extended period of time, but I've been man-handling a worm-drive Skil for almost two decades now.  How much longer can my right arm get!   [big grin]

I see a 55, a Rotex and, and... in your future ;D
Tim

 

[Dan Clermont]

The TS 55 is fine for cuTting down doors less then 2".

If you plan to cut steel skinned doors get the TS 75 with the steel blade.

You can always get a 55 for now and if you decide you need the 75 your dealer should be able to sell you one without the rail

That way you have a light saw and a saw with more power and depth of cut

Dan Clermont