Thoughts on Osmo Poly X

[Thompmd]

I’m currently using ODIES and want to try Osmo and wanted your thoughts.  It would be used inside and for general projects so food safe isn’t important.

Just looking for a simple durable finish for everyday use

Also, I would a finish like this hold up very well in a wood shop for light use surfaces

Thanks as always

 

[ear3]

Check out the various reviews by [member=11196]Peter Parfitt[/member]
https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/other-tool-reviews/osmo-polyx-video-review
https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/finishing/methods-of-applying-osmo-polyx-video
https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/other-tool-reviews/brand-new-product-osmo-polyx-gloss-video

I use Osmo a lot, in fact, it's my preferred finish.  Among the many nice things about it is that it can be touched up or even resanded and reapplied very easily.  I have a cabinet in the bathroom finished with Osmo, and it has held up great in such a humid environment, but it did develop a stain on the top from leaving the toothpaste tube out on it too often.  It just too a few minutes to sand down the top and redo the finish -- Osmo doesn't clog the abrasive like some other oil/wax finished.

The eye table I did recently is finished with Osmo matte.

The one thing to keep in mind is that the full cure time is somewhat long.  It's dry to the touch after 8 hours but it can take up to 2 weeks for the finish to fully set.  I made a table for a client last year with the matte finish, and after 1 week they apparently cleaned off the surface rather aggressively after something had spilled, and the spot where they scrubbed developed a slight sheen.  Had to come back and redo it.

All of my shop cabinets are finished with Osmo.

two notes on application:

1. I now follow the application method outlined by Peter Parfitt in one of his other Osmo videos, which is to apply the finish directly with a white pad.  This method is also the most efficient in terms of maximizing coverage from the can.

2. For whatever reason, the directions on the can don't mention anything about wiping off the surface after application.  It is difficult for me to conceive, though, how you could get consistent results, especially on furniture, if you did not wipe off the excess.  So it's good to have a bunch of clean soft rags around for this purpose when using Osmo.

 

[junk731]

Here's what the PDS sheet from OSMO says:

METHODS OF APPLICATION
Osmo Polyx®-Oil
High Solid is ready to use, please do not thin. Stir carefully before use.

First coat: Apply thinly and evenly with the wood grain using an Osmo Hand Brush, an Osmo Floor Brush or
Osmo Floor Roller. Leave to dry for at least 8 - 10 hours. Ensure good ventilation and room temperatures above 18° C.

Second coat: Apply thinly as above. Remove surplus immediately. Alternatively apply second coat by scraper
and buff the surface with a white pad. Leave to dry at least 8 - 10 hours, ventilate well.
When thoroughly dry, surface can be buffed or polished with hand polisher or buffing machine.
When renovating or re coating an already oiled surface, one coat applied to the clean and dry surface is usually
sufficient.

They recommend brushing a thin coat which typical removes the need for wiping at least on the first coat.

Just started to experiment with it, so far I prefer Rubio Monocoat and their system. Only time will tell.

 

[lshah72414]

I am a hobbyist so take my remarks with a grain of salt.
You better wipe it off or you will be sorry. I have used Osmo on two different projects, I do one side at a time and on edges you have to tip it up. I always wipe off excess with paper towel, but if some gets on back side and I didn't wipe it off , it dries to a funky white coating which needs to be sanded off. I would definitely wipe off excess.

 

[ChuckM]

I highly recommend that you try the Osmo, not because it's a game-changer like the Domino Joiner in joinery work. It's not. By trying it out yourself (using the proper techniques as some shared above, of course), you can tell if it is an alternative oil finish you can use for future projects. Start with a smaller project as the learning curve is slightly different: no sanding between coats is needed for one thing. The product is more expensive, but you use less for each application. Thin is the key -- I use a clean cotton rag. Yes, I wipe off the excess, if any. Long curing time, so be patient. Don't use it if you need something to be done over a weekend or so.

So far, I don't see much difference between it and other finishes I have used: wipe-on poly, arm-r-seal, varnish tung oil, and BLO. May be 4 or 5 years later, the report may be different. Images: Coffee table coated with wipe-on (5 coats?), dining table with Osmo (3 or 4?).

 

[ProCarpenterRVA]

“The one thing to keep in mind is that the full cure time is somewhat long.  It's dry to the touch after 8 hours but it can take up to 2 weeks for the finish to fully set.  "... This matches my experience with Osmo Polyxx Oil.

I like the finish, but I have found that the odor it puts off for weeks and weeks is too objectionable for any work to be delivered quickly. In comparison, Odies Oil is a good quick finish to use for immediate delivery items.

I do find that the Osmo Polyxx Oil is extremely durable.

Just my observation, YMMV

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

 

[Josh2]

I asked this in another thread but don't think someone replied. How much does OSMO and ODIES amber the wood? How is the effect and coloring compared to  Rubio monocoat PURE? PURE is a little too much for me. I prefer it a little more neutral.
Rubio monocoat 5% White, which offsets the amber effect of monocoat Pure, partially gets me there. I am curious how OSMO and ODIES compare.

 

[ear3]

There is a small amount of ambering with Osmo, certainly more than with the Monocoat, but I have not found it to be excessive. On whiter woods, like maple, birch or white oak, it's more noticeable, but again, I have not found it to be a problem for achieving the look that I want.

I asked this in another thread but don't think someone replied. How much does OSMO and ODIES amber the wood? How is the effect and coloring compared to  Rubio monocoat PURE? PURE is a little too much for me. I prefer it a little more neutral.
Rubio monocoat 5% White, which offsets the amber effect of monocoat Pure, partially gets me there. I am curious how OSMO and ODIES compare.

 

[rvieceli]

I use Osmo Polyx almost exclusively for a while now. I have not found the odor and there is a slight odor on application to be objectionable. I use Polyx 3054 clear satin. It has a slight sheen to it. the matte is a little too dead for me. There is some ambering. I use a lot of walnut and you can see it in the sap wood. I do not find it problematic.

I have tried using a first coat of Polyx 1101 extra thin and then finishing with 2-3 coats of regular. Didn't really feel that there was a big difference.

I usually sand to P320.

My technique is to apply with a white 3M Scotch brite pad (actually a small piece of one). Let the finish sit for about 11 minutes and then remove the excess. I use a cheap microfiber towel to do that. I then put a felt polishing pad in an ETS EC 150 and go over the piece with that. You have to be diligent about getting the excess off.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H1ZX0XA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I let the pieces dry for at least 12 hour. Then I lightly sand with P1000 Granat and repeat the process. Most pieces are 2 coats but sometimes 3.

That is how I consistently get the results I am looking for.

It does take a while to fully cure. You need to be careful when handling it after getting done with the application. It is not hard to make a "smudge" that will show as a difference in sheen.

If you screw up, it is very easy to sand out and reapply. (Don't ask me how I know.  [eek]) In theory you should be able to spot repair but I can't get it blended properly so I usually just re sand the whole side. It does gum up your sandpaper if you are aggressively trying to remove the finish or some excess dried finish you missed.

I have tried Rubio and did not like the results. It was too dull a sheen.

I have wanted to try Odies but haven't yet because of the price and not sure it would be better.

 

[Sparktrician]

I used PolyX on a wine rack I made over 5 years ago.  The finish has held up very well, with no obnoxious odors. 

 

[Thompmd]

I highly recommend that you try the Osmo, not because it's a game-changer like the Domino Joiner in joinery work. It's not. By trying it out yourself (using the proper techniques as some shared above, of course), you can tell if it is an alternative oil finish you can use for future projects. Start with a smaller project as the learning curve is slightly different: no sanding between coats is needed for one thing. The product is more expensive, but you use less for each application. Thin is the key -- I use a clean cotton rag. Yes, I wipe off the excess, if any. Long curing time, so be patient. Don't use it if you need something to be done over a weekend or so.

So far, I don't see much difference between it and other finishes I have used: wipe-on poly, arm-r-seal, varnish tung oil, and BLO. May be 4 or 5 years later, the report may be different. Images: Coffee table coated with wipe-on (5 coats?), dining table with Osmo (3 or 4?).

What were/are your thoughts on arm-R-seal? It’s another a guy at Woodcraft really liked?

 

[ChuckM]

Snip

What were/are your thoughts on arm-R-seal? It’s another a guy at Woodcraft really liked?

I like it as it gives a tough protective topcoat. Stir well, apply (cotton), wait 5 - 10 mins, wipe off excess and sand 320x or steel wool between coats (I wait 8 to 10 hrs). Like applying wipe-on poly, 4 or 5 coats should be enough for coffee tables etc. The last time I used it on several cases, the smell was gone after 4 or 5 weeks, presumably meaning the finish was completely cured.

For me. it's like thinned BLO then Wipe-on Poly. Remember to not thin the oil before use, and soak any oil rag in a water bucket afterwards.

 

[Thompmd]

Snip

What were/are your thoughts on arm-R-seal? It’s another a guy at Woodcraft really liked?

I like it as it gives a tough protective topcoat. Stir well, apply (cotton), wait 5 - 10 mins, wipe off excess and sand 320x or steel wool between coats (I wait 8 to 10 hrs). Like applying wipe-on poly, 4 or 5 coats should be enough for coffee tables etc. The last time I used it on several cases, the smell was gone after 4 or 5 weeks, presumably meaning the finish was completely cured.

For me. it's like thinned BLO then Wipe-on Poly. Remember to not thin the oil before use, and soak any oil rag in a water bucket afterwards.

Thank You for the Response, I planned to start the thread with both Osmo & ArmRseal so I I asked .

I’m wanting to experiment some and respect the detail/depth of most threads here.

 

[Thompmd]

I used PolyX on a wine rack I made over 5 years ago.  The finish has held up very well, with no obnoxious odors.

Neat idea/nice job on the wine rack. It got my mind swirling on that design. By chance have you tried Arm-R-Seal?

 

[mrFinpgh]

I really like PolyX.  I also really like the top-oil product.

I apply it by sanding to 150 and doing the first coat with a red pad. Wait a day, a very light scuff if necessary, and do the second coat with a white pad.

I always make sure to buff it off pretty aggressively with a shop towel, before it sets up and gets tacky.

 

[kurtww]

We recently did a whole house with Osmo PolyX in the Neutral color. I love how it looks, but I don't think I would use it again for floors. It is very susceptible to water spots. I'd consider using it if we didn't have kids, but definitely not in the kitchen. Any oil splatters will come through as stains on the floor, and water stains are visible unless wiped up immediately. I also had an incident with oven cleaner overspray that resulted in black spots that had to be sanded out. I just re-sanded the whole kitchen after 6 months to fix all the issues. I will definitely use it again for things where staining is not a concern, it is great to work with. And I really love the look...

 

[Sparktrician]

I used PolyX on a wine rack I made over 5 years ago.  The finish has held up very well, with no obnoxious odors.

Neat idea/nice job on the wine rack. It got my mind swirling on that design. By chance have you tried Arm-R-Seal?

Thank you!  I have used Arm-R-Seal and like it, too.  In this case, I preferred PolyX because of the way it works so well with cherry.  There's a shift in color that seems to make cherry look much richer. 

 

[Stan Tillinghast]

Kurtww: When you talk about redoing the kitchen, are you talking about the floors only?
I’m interested in whether PolyX would be good for kitchen cabinets long-term.

 

[kurtww]

Yes, I'm just talking about the floor. In fact I'm redoing it with the same Osmo but only because we're selling and I need it to match.

I am not sure how it would hold up on cabinets. If it's out of any splash range, and you only use the handles to open them, I suspect it would hold up fine.

 

[JimD]

I've used Poly X on two beds, two nightstands and one dresser so far.  I like it but it seems very expensive at least until you see how much a .75l can will finish.  I noticed the hard way the slow drying time when I left some pieces in a dusty environment, my shop, while it was drying.  Bad mistake.  Now I finish where there is very little dust and it's OK.  I keep a small micro fiber towel in an old can of Osmo and use it repeatedly.  It doesn't dry out much and it works well as an applicator IMHO.  I just wipe it on, as evenly and thinly as possible, and let it dry overnight before applying at least one more coat.  I did not like paper towels with this product, I think it pulls fibers off them resulting in the same issue as a dusty environment.