Time to make a pivot door.

tjbnwi

Member
Joined
May 12, 2008
Messages
7,270
The hardware I fabricate for pivot doors. This one is replacing an existing one that had Murphy hardware, sagged and scratched the floor.

Tom
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2105.jpeg
    IMG_2105.jpeg
    2.9 MB · Views: 50
  • IMG_2106.jpeg
    IMG_2106.jpeg
    2 MB · Views: 50
  • IMG_2107.jpeg
    IMG_2107.jpeg
    1.8 MB · Views: 48
  • IMG_2108.jpeg
    IMG_2108.jpeg
    2.9 MB · Views: 47
This pivot bookcase is replacing one that the hardware failed in less than a month.

This is the way I originally designed the pivots 4 years ago. When I stress tested the first design in Fusion I tested it to 9000 lbs point load at the farthest upper end from the pivot. The hardware will hold up long are the wood fails.

The first set I fabricated.

IMG_5187.jpegIMG_5242.jpegIMG_5244.jpegIMG_5246.jpeg

The magnetic lock. I believe it was rated for 3000 pounds of pull.
IMG_5245.jpeg

The original hardware that failed.

IMG_2015.jpeg

IMG_2020.jpeg

IMG_2019.jpeg

Tom
 
I can certainly understand the need for super duty pivots on those. Not only are the really deep but potentially loaded with even more weight. Great looking job Tom.

The last time I use center-pivot bearings was about a year and a half ago. They were just 3" thick flat doors, used as a partition, dividing a room in two, wall to wall. They were nowhere near that heavy, but the doors were a lot lighter too.
 

Attachments

  • Center-pivot doors.jpg
    Center-pivot doors.jpg
    354.4 KB · Views: 19
  • Center-pivot jamb.jpg
    Center-pivot jamb.jpg
    373.9 KB · Views: 21
There are smaller pillow blocks, I like using the 1” ID units because of their height and bolt pattern. The plate size sets the centerline where I need it when I set edge to edge.

The top axle plate is cut in that shape so it stays behind the upper trim. on this one. On this one, I do not have a “top rail” that will travel with the door.

I use 1-1/2” 4140 for the axels, it’s what I have laying around. The small end is turned down to 0.998 by 1” tall, to slip fit into bearing bore.

One other thing that I do, not sure it is necessary, I turn a brass support ring for the bearing. On pillow blocks the bearing are pressed in deeper the mounting surface of the flange. These blanks are fun to hold properly in the lathe, some day I;’ll get backers for the chuck. They’re a light press fit into the block.

IMG_2121.jpeg

Tom
 
Back
Top