Time to upgrade my Track Saw... possibly- but some questions of deflection

[idratherplaytennis]

I wasn't sure if this should go here or the other tools section, however since I am considering the Festool versions, I figured this was a good place to start. I've had the Makita track saw for awhile, primarily used it for sheet good break down, scribing cedar fence posts so they fit nice to crooked buildings etc, and loved it. Clean cuts and amazingly precise sharp lines- yea yea, I know- not Festool, but I purchased it before I could afford the green and now I can afford the green.

I have a question regarding the power and quality of the Festool, as it compares (to the Makita) and to see if anyone else has had a similar issue I recently came across. I have the potential option of selling my Makita to a guy I work with that is impressed with the "track saw" in general and it's abilities hence my foray into this search. From reviews I've read, the Makita and Festool are the two ways to go, with the Makita boasting more power, more so, apparently than the TS 75- as far as wattage is concerned. That's not my primary issue. For sheet goods and the like, I'm not concerned, as I know both are winners. It's more of when I get to slightly thicker stock, such as some doors that we recently hung in an apartment, replacing old doors and having to scribe them in to fit the slightly less-than-plumb doorways. When trying to rip the length of the doors (top to bottom) I noticed blade deflection, forcing me to constantly plunge and re-plunge my cuts to power through the door length while shaving anywhere from 1/16 to 1/4 off some doors (sometimes an even cut across the cut, sometimes it scribed from 1/16 to 1/8 or 3/16). I'm potentially chalking this up to the fact that I haven't changed the stock blade yet (I didn't want to deal with changing the splinter guards to the new blade, however I have the new guards and new freud blade... that and the current blade is still pretty darn sharp that I wouldn't run my finger across a tooth).

I was just wondering if anyone has come across this issue running a TS55 REQ through thicker stock when they just want to shave a little off of something, if that could be a blade issue or if using a TS75 would be the remedy. I'm 95% certain I will be buying into a Festool track saw, it's more of the cost of the upggrade and timing. It took a long time to rip down the doors to acceptable finish levels (these were cheap hollow-core mdf veneered interior doors with wood framing) and even then, they required plenty of after-sanding to remove some blade marks due to the deflection and re-plunges.

Also- before anyone even asks, this happened at basically every feed speed and I know from all the tile work we do, if the blade kerf is too thin, or you push too hard, the blade won't track back to straight unless something breaks or starts fresh- this was more of an "it just kept happening no-matter-what thing" and I'm just glad I wasn't doing hardwood stain-grade solid doors.

I have read countless pros and cons of choosing the TS55 REQ to the TS75 but from the sound of things it usually boiled down to two things- 1, If I don't mind the extra weight/size and 2, The depth of stock I normally cut. The two things I didn't understand so much was the fact that the rpms are vastly less on the 75 than the 55 while the power is higher, unless that rpm is off-set from a greater tooth-count or some other variable I'm not catching onto.

 

[Holmz]

Sounds faster to use a jigsaw.

 

[ear3]

I've never had the deflection issues you describe on either the 55 or the 75.  The only time cut quality had been an issue for me is when I've worked too long with a dull blade, or when I tried to rip through a hardwood using a high tooth count blade.

 

[rst]

I use all three of the saws mentioned.  I bought the Makita first from Amazon warehouse to see what the fuss about track saws was about.  I used it for 3-4 years before buying a 75 on Ebay.  The Makita bogged down cutting the 3/8 acrylic and polycarbonate that I cut regularly.  After buying an MFT, I bought a recon 55 for dedicated use at the table.  I now use the Makita for rough construction...I cut rafter tail and birds mouths using two 32" rails and rail dogs for the various angles last fall during a house renno.  If I had to keep just one, it would be the 75 but i would have to continue going to the gym and lifting regularly as it weighs right up there with my
8 1/4" skilsaw!  As far as deflection, I have never had a problem with any of the saws.  Check the blade for parallel and also that one side of your blade is not sharper than the other.  I once had a blade that I nicked a nail with and had to have resharpened as the blade would wander to one side.

 

[idratherplaytennis]

I use all three of the saws mentioned.  I bought the Makita first from Amazon warehouse to see what the fuss about track saws was about.  I used it for 3-4 years before buying a 75 on Ebay.  The Makita bogged down cutting the 3/8 acrylic and polycarbonate that I cut regularly.  After buying an MFT, I bought a recon 55 for dedicated use at the table.  I now use the Makita for rough construction...I cut rafter tail and birds mouths using two 32" rails and rail dogs for the various angles last fall during a house renno.  If I had to keep just one, it would be the 75 but i would have to continue going to the gym and lifting regularly as it weighs right up there with my
8 1/4" skilsaw!  As far as deflection, I have never had a problem with any of the saws.  Check the blade for parallel and also that one side of your blade is not sharper than the other.  I once had a blade that I nicked a nail with and had to have resharpened as the blade would wander to one side.

That's exactly what I needed. I'm betting that even though the blade feels sharp, it's just not sharp enough for the shaving of 1/8" I was attempting.

Thanks for the info on the 75 over the 55. I'll have to go look at my local store and see how much heavier it is. I use regular 7.25 skilsaws plenty but even the 4lb light mag77lt while heavy is way better to use compared to the normal weight. I have no clue about the 8inch size. I'll swap and put on the new blade and splinter guards to test it out the next time.

Thanks guys.

 

[demographic]

Sounds faster to use a jigsaw.

Jigsaw, on a door edging?

Crikey, that would be a lesson in cleaning up the door with a plane afterwards.

 

[Holmz]

Sounds faster to use a jigsaw.

Jigsaw, on a door edging?

Crikey, that would be a lesson in cleaning up the door with a plane afterwards.

Compared to multiple plunges and blade wandering?
At my jig saw can ride the rail, and the cut is in decent shape.

I would not do it in general, compared to whatever is wrong with the blade or saw it is easier.

 

[idratherplaytennis]

For the record, the multiple plunges did work. It was just time consuming, then a final rip down the same line after everything was finally shaved just right...  [embarassed]

 

[Holmz]

For the record, the multiple plunges did work. It was just time consuming, then a final rip down the same line after everything was finally shaved just right...  [embarassed]

I am sure it did.
If the Makita takes the same blade (Which it probably does), then getting a new blade would be a good place to start.

If it was a weekend and no blades around, then I would jigsaw it and hand plane it. But my recollection is that in LA (And Orange and Venture counties) you have more blades/square-mile then I have here. At least if I do not count the stack I have in the garage...

 

[bertv]

The variable you asked about concerns the speed of the blade on the cutting edge. A larger blade with a lower speed (rpm) equals a smaller blade with a higher speed, simply put.

Image a dot drawn on the edge of a small blade and a larger one. Turn half a revolution. The distance traveled by the dot on the larger disc is grater than on the smaller one. Distance divided by time equals speed.

 

[JimD]

I've ripped doors down several times with my DeWalt track saw with no issues.  Only one was a 1 3/4 exterior door and it's solid softwood.  I used the stock blade and the saw did not show any signs of straining.  I beveled it slightly so the depth of cut was a little over 1 3/4. 

From experience with my 120V table saw, I would suggest that your Makita will probably do any cut within it's capacity in wood as long as the blade is sharp and correct for the cut.  My table saw will rip 3.5 inches in hardwood but only with a sharp ripping blade.  With a combination blade it struggles. 

So I would change the blade, not the saw.  Unless you just want a new saw. 

 

[Nat X]

Every time I've seen something that I wanted to blame on deflection with either the 55 or 75 it was usually because I had to clamp the rail a little further out from the edge of the workpiece than I would have liked to and created a very, very slight bow. As long as I make sure I never do that, I can shave paper thin strips all day. I *do* use Freud blades, both because they're cheaper and because I like the results better than what Festool has to offer.