Tiny dust collector
- Thread starter DynaGlide
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Cheese said:
An interesting table and it illustrates my point about the evolution of thinking that has taken place in recent years and why it has taken place. I am guessing and yes it is a guess that in days gone by the prime aim of dust collection was to keep the work place clean from heavy debris and not much more but our understanding has moved on form that. To have a good chance to capture the sub 5 micron dust we need to flow about 1000 CFM and that requires several things.
Firstly 4" pipe won't flow that much at typical high volume pressures that a capable ducted system will create. The maximum is around 750 CFM which is way too low.
4" machine ports ditto and until manufacturers recognise that fact there is only one solution and that is enlarge the port to match the duct size.
The 6" recommendation is the minimum, I have seen reports that 7" works better but that is unobtainable in Oz so I can't verify it.
Just as an aside Clearvue supply a DE with a 16" impeller (Clearvue Max) and it was produced for use in other countries where the grid supply was 50hz which is what just about every country uses outside the US and I guess Canada. This meant that the motor speed dropped from 3450 to 2850 RPM and at that motor speed would have the same performance as their 15" impeller machine. Of course that plan went out the window when everyone started to use the 16" machine in the US and to do that a 8" duct system is needed with 6" drops to the machines. Using the bigger impeller means multiple machines can be used at once with good dust capture at both. Another advantage of a Max is that it can be run at slower speeds with less noise using a 3 phase motor and a VFD. As I have said previously I would not buy a single phase DE for a bet.
DynaGlide
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After lots of research I landed on this Jet unit. It was $900 with an eBay Memorial Day sale coupon. Things I like are the 1.5HP motor, the faux thien baffle/cylone whatever you wanna call it vortex, small footprint, and pretty good 2 micron filtration. I have one of those 1 micron ceiling mount filtration units I run any time I'm in the shop kicking up dust. I'm A-OK running hose to each tool since I only have room for a few tools anyway. If I can have a bandsaw, jointer, and planer in my shop that's plenty. And my little jobsite table saw from DeWalt when I need to rip stuff.
It supposedly has 1100CFM at the motor and since my shop is so small, the hose will only extend about 6 feet to a tool in use. It's 'technically' mobile, but on my rubber mat flooring it's tough to move so I'll keep it parked where it is unless I really badly need the space for a project.
I'll use the Rockler Dust right setup that allows for quick connect to tools.
Now back to figuring out which jointer to get. .
Matt
Same price as the Rockler but 1/2HP more. That should be good for any of your machine. Those castors can easily be changed to larger ones if one day mobility becomes important.
Are you going to use it with an auto switch? Except the CT15, I use all dust extraction equipment with an iVac auto switch (2 x 15 amp outlets).
Are you going to use it with an auto switch? Except the CT15, I use all dust extraction equipment with an iVac auto switch (2 x 15 amp outlets).
DynaGlide
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ChuckS said:
I looked into the Jet switch and people say it trips a 20amp breaker so I'll pass on that. I have an iVac 16amp dedicated to my Kapex/FLEX vac setup. Not sure if I'll get one for the DC just yet. I mean, I will, just not sure which unit to purchase at the moment. Does iVac offer a unit for 1.5HP? The one I have on my FLEX vac maxes out at 1HP I believe.
https://www.ivacswitch.com/ivac-for-diys/ivac-dust-collector-remote-switch/ That site may have info. about auto switches for 1.5HP.
I also remember another thread on this Forum about auto switches for 20 amp? or 2 HP?
I also remember another thread on this Forum about auto switches for 20 amp? or 2 HP?
DynaGlide said:
Each of my iVAC auto switches provides two 15amp outlets (provided the switch is plugged into two separate 15 amp circuits). If your 1.5 HP d.c. is rated for 15amp and the machine used with the d.c. is also rated for 15amp or lower, you can use the ordinary iVAC auto switch.
My auto switch only tripped once when it was used with the 1HP dust collector, SawStop 1.75Hp and a shop vac all together at the same time while ripping a long 2" thick oak plank.
DynaGlide
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ChuckS said:
So it looks like that's the one I already have. Shame I can't hook both my FLEX vac and the Jet to it. When I setup my Kapex I put it and my FLEX on separate 20amp circuits and put one of those clamp on sensors on the cable of the Kapex to automate the flex vac. I didn't want to take any chances after all the Kapex failure nonsense.
If it can truly handle a 1.5hp DC I'll probably buy another for the Jet. I'm leery since it says 16A or something on the front of it. Or I guess I could steal the iVac I have now and move it over to the Jet and get a cheap remote switch for the Flex and get used to turning the FLEX on/off whenever I'm using the Kapex. Not a horrible solution as I often find I'm waiting for the iVac to turn on/off the vac doing quick cuts on the Kapex.
Edit: I think I'll pickup just the remote for $30 and try that out and see how I like it and if it causes any issues with my breaker.
DynaGlide said:
Same worry here with my EB model (now 7 years old). I hook the Kapex up to an auto switch with one cord plugged (tool) into a 20amp circuit and the other aux. (shop vac) into a 15amp circuit. (During the first year of pandemic, I spent a few hundred dollars (even city inspection (virtual two times) cost money!) and installed two 20amp circuits in the shop myself.)
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ChuckS said:
[member=57948]ChuckS[/member] So the iVac turns on the DC no problem when I flip it manually. But after thinking it over I don't really think I need a remote. It's within 6ft of my workspace and DC's aren't really meant to be turned on/off repeatedly anyway. It isn't a big deal to walk over and turn it on before I use a tool and leave it on until I'm done.
Now if it were shoved into a corner and hard to get to I'd reconsider.
I'm using iVac system with my 1.5HP oneida mini gorilla. Works great via remote that it comes with and also have few of the clamp on triggers that ivac sells. Also work fine. Had to relocate the location of the clamp few times as other tools were triggering the dust collector. My mini gorilla is 120v version so as ivac
I prefer a remote for my dust collector as I leave it on when making adjustments to machinery.
The Jet should be using a magnetic switch so something like this should be easy enough to wire in. You can find the wiring diagrams online and I can show you photos of how Jet did it on a 240v 3HP unit.
Remote Switch
Still going to recommend you purchase an air quality meter like the Dylos. It's what you can't see that harms you.
The Jet should be using a magnetic switch so something like this should be easy enough to wire in. You can find the wiring diagrams online and I can show you photos of how Jet did it on a 240v 3HP unit.
Remote Switch
Still going to recommend you purchase an air quality meter like the Dylos. It's what you can't see that harms you.
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I have the iVac switch for the DC and sensors for each of my tools.
However I use the remote most of the time because I don't like cycling
the DC motor on/off repeatedly. Jumping around from tool to tool when
processing rough stock means the jointer, planer, and TS are all seeing
action. So I have turned off all the sensors at the tools and use the remote
clipped on my belt. I bought the system over 10 years ago and they are
very different than what is sold today.
I have two other problems are what first got me using the remote. The
first is the motor upgrade I did to the bandsaw. Putting that DVR motor on
there was the best thing I for that saw giving gobs more power and it runs
super smooth with variable speed not just two or three. But the controller
for the DVR draws enough power to trigger the iVac tool sensor and will start
the DC even when the bandsaw is idle. Newer iVac sensors don't have this
problem and have an adjustable trigger, my first gen versions do not.
The second is the NOVA Voyager motor at some (only the lower end so far)
RPMs will cause the iVac DC switch to power on. Seems to only happen
when I am using low RPM with large Forstner bits.
So for me the best option has been to just use the iVac remote on my belt.
That works well and runs for many months on two CR2032 batteries.
However I use the remote most of the time because I don't like cycling
the DC motor on/off repeatedly. Jumping around from tool to tool when
processing rough stock means the jointer, planer, and TS are all seeing
action. So I have turned off all the sensors at the tools and use the remote
clipped on my belt. I bought the system over 10 years ago and they are
very different than what is sold today.
I have two other problems are what first got me using the remote. The
first is the motor upgrade I did to the bandsaw. Putting that DVR motor on
there was the best thing I for that saw giving gobs more power and it runs
super smooth with variable speed not just two or three. But the controller
for the DVR draws enough power to trigger the iVac tool sensor and will start
the DC even when the bandsaw is idle. Newer iVac sensors don't have this
problem and have an adjustable trigger, my first gen versions do not.
The second is the NOVA Voyager motor at some (only the lower end so far)
RPMs will cause the iVac DC switch to power on. Seems to only happen
when I am using low RPM with large Forstner bits.
So for me the best option has been to just use the iVac remote on my belt.
That works well and runs for many months on two CR2032 batteries.
My shop is small, and every dust extraction equipment is usually located within a step or two from the machine in use.
The reason I put an auto switch in each dust collector/shop vac is that I don't like the noise from any of them even though I always wear ear protection and have made measures to dampen the noise. While I can turn off the dust extraction each time after I switch off the machine, I don't like the distraction, and prefer to move on to the next task immediately (be it walking back to the bench, or resetting the fence for another cut or boring, or checking the finished cut for squareness, etc.). Our workflows can be different.
The reason I put an auto switch in each dust collector/shop vac is that I don't like the noise from any of them even though I always wear ear protection and have made measures to dampen the noise. While I can turn off the dust extraction each time after I switch off the machine, I don't like the distraction, and prefer to move on to the next task immediately (be it walking back to the bench, or resetting the fence for another cut or boring, or checking the finished cut for squareness, etc.). Our workflows can be different.
4nthony
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ChuckS said:
This subject could be a thread of its own and I know noise suppression is a very complicated topic, but I'm curious to know what you've done and what kind of results you've achieved.
My shop is one half of a 1940s era freestanding garage that is unfinished and uninsulated. I've considered adding an insulation kit to the back of the garage door along with some Rockwool insulation and a couple layers of OSB or drywall but I just don't know if when it's done, the benefits will warrant the cost.
For those who are interested I was part of the team that developed this system in Australia and only recently decided to leave and move on to something else. It is not available for export and may never be unfortunately. We were forced to develop it because the cost of IVAC in Oz was simply too expensive, a 6"/150mm blast gate was about $800AUD and ours was about half that.
https://autoblastgates.com.au/
https://autoblastgates.com.au/
Anthony,4nthony said:
Economical and effective:
https://tinyurl.com/2atmtn85
You can also warp the outside of the insulation material with Kraft paper or the like if the insulation gets a high chance of being disturbed.
First bolt the garage to the floor with 5/8" bolts like Titans or glue threaded rod in with 3" plates and nuts on top which is what I did as it is cheaper. Also add proper earthquake retrofit hardware in, especially around doors. Plywood is perfect for a garage as it acts as shearwall, and gives a great place to hang cabinets and stuff anywhere. Drywall over the top creates a finished look if desired. Insulation could be rockwool, but there are other alternatives, as sound will barely travel thru a wall with plywood on each side. The garage door kits are junk, and that is where most of the heat/cooling is lost. I found 2" rigid foam fit perfectly on "my" garage door, just measure depth. I did have to route free hand every piece to clear a raised panel inside, but I have minimal air gaps and 2" of foam. Also filled in all the channels and groves inside prior to installing rigid foam, with spray in foam from a can that requires a gun to dispense. (Spray foam is also good to put around the base of the walls to seal them up from air exchanges.) Thin aluminum can be pop riveted over the door sections to create a cleaner look and bring it up to fire code. The door spring(s) will need tension increased which is easy to do with a wrench and a couple of socket extensions used to turn them.4nthony said:
Edit: Then get a mini-split for AC/heat.
4nthony said:
Check out Bent's woodworking on IG or youtube he just went through this in his new garage shop. He did research and ended up doing fake wall with Rockwool, safe and sound drywall and something else. He explains his implementation and why he decided to go that way
[member=60461]Bob D.[/member] i had simliar issues with new ivac but i didn't adjust anything from default yet. Just had to move the sensor into a different spot and that fixed the issue. I didn't try it with dvr motor as I don't have nova but I do have bosch adjustable drill press and it doesn't trigger the dust collector.
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