To paint or not to paint - an IKEA hack

[prjones]

Hey guys!

I'm working on an IKEA hack for a client who wants a new mobile reception area cabinet/desktop but doesn't want to pay for me to build it right.

So we've agreed on an IKEA hack with me making some modifications for strenghts and what not:

[attachimg=1]

Question: do I sand, prime, and paint the IKEA laminate parts, or find a way to attach 1/4" MDF or baltic birch overtop and then paint those areas? Looking for the cleanest most durable solution.

Thanks!

 

[woodferret]

I'd scuff, use Stix bonding primer and just paint it.  I don't think there's really any way you can make 1/4 panels blend in nice.  You might be able to alleviate the durability issue by showing her the products she can use to touch up.

I don't think anyone pushing this is going to expect factory finish high-gloss and will be happy with milkpaint or whatever.

edit: maybe a nice panel though is in order if the back face of the bookshelf is facing the customers.

 

[live4ever]

Scuffing and spraying works pretty well, obviously dependent on the quality of primer (bonding) and durability of final paint.  I’ve used BM Advance for kid furniture and it has held up very well for ~8 years now with the exception of the initial cure time.

 

[squall_line]

If you're using a true IKEA KALLAX unit, beware that the "thick" outer border is actually made of hollow-core pieces with very, very thin faces.  Scuff as little as possible to get the job done.

 

[Packard]

Ikea stuff is almost universally “flat-pack” and requires assembly.  With appropriate glue, you can improve on the structure.

You can glue on 1/4” x 2-1/2” slats to the back to give it a Shaker cabinet look. 

When you reference “mobile” what does that mean?  Is it going to be moved around a lot?  Flat-pack furniture is not nearly as structurally sound as flat-pack cabinets.  The cabinets borrow some structure from mounting to the wall.

 

[prjones]

When you reference “mobile” what does that mean?  Is it going to be moved around a lot?  Flat-pack furniture is not nearly as structurally sound as flat-pack cabinets.  The cabinets borrow some structure from mounting to the wall.

That I'm putting it on wheels/casters. It's a dance studio and from time to time they need to roll it out of the way to make room for more students.

I hear you on the structural soundness of being moved around, but as Denzel said in The Equalizer, "if they pay, they say!"  [big grin]

 

[mino]

If it is to be on casters, you need a proper load-bearing bottom.
These IKEA pieces depend on straight load-bearing surface below them. They fall apart without it. Each vertical needs support, so you end up with a torsion box below ... in addition to the top.

As for surface finish, what works with pre-finished surfaces is light sanding (P320+) and then silicone-based hi-tack construction glue. it sticks like crazy even to otherwise non-binding surfaces. It holds like crazy, but the surface will not hold to the IKEA thing, so still plan with screws for a backup.

Ref. finishing. IMO the whole point of using off-the-shelf furniture for sub-assemblies is that you do not need to (re)finish them. Once you add finishing work, the economy no longer works. So a vote for pre-finishing a BB top board, then gluing it to the IKEA piece. Though 1/4" seems cutting it a bit too tight .. 1/2" with some overhang sounds like the reasonable minimum to me, 3/4" like something I would use ..

ADD:
What I do with such things on casters for "non-qualified" people, is try make them as-stable-as-possible.

In this case I would make a plywood torsion box, say 3" high, possibly double-thick on the long sides. Then "fill" the inside of it with screwed-in high-density off-cuts, giving it some bottom weight for stability. Those 40-50 pounds of additional heft at the bottom do make a difference in daily use.

 

[Packard]

Add a solid sheet of 3/4 plywood to the rear and the same to the bottom.  In effect, a dolly for the cabinets to roll on. 

If firmly attached to the rear, it will provide racking strength for side to side movement. 

Some projects require a “special guarantee”. 

I had a customer years ago, when I was working in the metals industry.  The customer made plastic hangers for garments, and we were the provide the metal swivel hooks. 

Their customer, The Limited, wanted black hangers and black hooks.  Unfortunately there was not suitable black finish that could be bulk applied.  We needed to supply two and a half million hooks per year.

Black oxide + oil came in close.  It was black, but oily and soiled the garments.

We could tumble the parts in saw dust to remove most of the oil, and that looked fine.

I made a special guarantee:  “I rarely guarantee the finish applied to our products.  But I will in this case.  I am offering a 100% guarantee that these parts will rust and you customer will demand you take them back.”

And, of course they did rust.

All is which to get to your situation.  I would add a special guarantee:  “Guarantee that a mobile workstation made from Ikea cabinetry will require regular maintenance to keep the structure in good shape.  We may be able to make required repairs in the future, but there will be a cost associated with that.  It may end up adding significant cost to the project long run.”

I think the rolling dolly I described above will improve the performance, like you, I would recommend against it.

 

[Packard]

I think a rolling dolly with the added plywood back, would give you the best chance at success.  Here is an example:
https://www.uline.com/BL_1817/Wood-Platform-Trucks?keywords=flat+cart+dolly

 

[onocoffee]

I recently purchased the same Kallax from Ikea but have not assembled it yet. I would like to embed LED strip lighting into the tops across the fronts of the individual boxes - I was planning on routing out the panels prior to assembly.

But I see that someone noted that the Kallax is hollow? Is it possible to do what I was intending?

Thanks!

 

[bcrawley]

They use a kind of cardboard material in between the thin faces. With a little thicker material where the screws go in. I Googled the picture but it looks like what I've seen when cutting one up once.

 

[squall_line]

I recently purchased the same Kallax from Ikea but have not assembled it yet. I would like to embed LED strip lighting into the tops across the fronts of the individual boxes - I was planning on routing out the panels prior to assembly.

But I see that someone noted that the Kallax is hollow? Is it possible to do what I was intending?

Thanks!

Your best bet for something like this would just be to search "kallax recessed led strip" from your favored search provider and see where it leads you.  There is significantly (100+ fold) more information on the general internet about all types of Ikea furniture modifications than you are likely to find here on the FOG.

Also, yes, the thick pieces of a Kallax are built similarly to a cheap hollow-core door, as bcrawley showed.  They dent/break with very little aggressive persuasion, which makes me question their use for furniture around toddlers, especially, but experience is an effective teacher in that regard.

 

[Packard]

Individual LED mini-spot lights would only require a drilled holes.  Very cheap from Amazon.

Google:
https://www.google.com/search?q=recessed+individual+LED+lights+mini&client=firefox-b-1-m&sca_esv=ee9f43d054edb7e5&udm=2&biw=1128&bih=711&sxsrf=ADLYWIL4OUTfL86nuCe-IgS9HRSJwvuKZA%3A1728744151420&ei=14oKZ5CmGeCf5NoP6IiP2AE&ved=0ahUKEwjQ7bXoiYmJAxXgD1kFHWjEAxsQ4dUDCBA&oq=recessed+individual+LED+lights+mini&gs_lp=Egxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAiI3JlY2Vzc2VkIGluZGl2aWR1YWwgTEVEIGxpZ2h0cyBtaW5pSPk-UIYMWNsTcAF4AJABAJgBjwGgAeoCqgEDNC4xuAEMyAEA-AEBmAIAoAIAmAMAiAYBkgcAoAfhAQ&sclient=gws-wiz-serp#vhid=-A47Pbbjyi--_M&vssid=mosaic