Today was a good day...

[bkharman]

I spent the better part of Saturday making some (collected) saw dust with my tools.  I had to create some cabinet doors to finish up a kitchen project that has been on hold for a while.  One step was to cut and clean up stock that i picked up last week before heading out on a marathon trip for work.

Tools:

• Hitachi (hey it has green on it!) SCMS for cutting up the soft maple into rails and stiles
• TS 55 (cutting up MDF for panels)
• CMS + OF 1400 (for everything else)
• Infinity Coping Sled (I picked this up a few weeks ago and love it!)

I haven't build my SCMS stand/storage yet so I had to make a temp stop fence.  Great saw if you don't want to drop a lot of money on a Kapex.  Very clean and square cuts.  Dust collection is better than other Non-Kapex saws.

The Coping sled is awesome... not cheap, but worth every penny to run through a bunch of copes. 

My CMS performed as usual.  It routed out my copes and sticks without a hiccup.  It always does so I am not surprised!  [tongue]

After all of my cuts, most of the dust and chips were in the vac... not on the table and floor.  This is all the dust after 18 rails, 18 stiles, and 9 panels out of MDF.  I so love my CMS setup.

Sunday I spent time putting BIN on the MDF panels and prepping for glue up.  The wifey should be happy before I leave this week.

Cheers.  Bryan.

 

[Wuffles]

Is that the C12RSH? I have one of those and I really like it.

 

[bkharman]

Yep!

Great "little" saw. It stays in my shop and doesn't travel... Otherwise I would have to do something else.

In the shop it is most excellent.

Cheers. Bryan.

 

[mike_aa]

I spent the better part of Saturday making some (collected) saw dust with my tools.  I had to create some cabinet doors to finish up a kitchen project that has been on hold for a while.  One step was to cut and clean up stock that i picked up last week before heading out on a marathon trip for work....

Sunday I spent time putting BIN on the MDF panels and prepping for glue up.  The wifey should be happy before I leave this week.

Cheers.  Bryan.

Bryan,
That's a nice clean pile of crisply cut parts awaiting assembly!  I hope wifey appreciates all the work involved so far! LOL

Thanks for the pictures and please show us more when you return from your trip and continue the build.

Mike A.

 

[Wuffles]

Yep!

Great "little" saw. It stays in my shop and doesn't travel... Otherwise I would have to do something else.

In the shop it is most excellent.

Cheers. Bryan.

I agree. Try not to lift it anywhere, what with it being 30 odd kilos.

 

[otis04]

I am in the market for a router table and have been considering the CMS, but see some drawbacks mostly it ties up my OF1400.  With other router tables, I can use a less expensive, dedicated, motor.
The connection to this post?  Why are you using an aftermarket fence with the CMS?

 

[bkharman]

I am in the market for a router table and have been considering the CMS, but see some drawbacks mostly it ties up my OF1400.  With other router tables, I can use a less expensive, dedicated, motor.
The connection to this post?  Why are you using an aftermarket fence with the CMS?

It am pretty vocal about this...

The fence on the CMS is the weak link in my opinion. It also doesn't make sense that you need a fence for the router plate as well as a different one if you get the TS plates.  I have always liked Incra products and trust their accuracy.

I LOVE my setup. It does everything I throw at it. Cheap?  No. Flexible?  Without a doubt.

Cheers. Bryan.

 

[bkharman]

Forgot to post this yesterday...

Panel edges were painted with BIN before assembly. Much easier to sand, paint, sand, and paint again BEFORE assembly!

All the rails and stiles got the same treatment on the 15deg chamfers and back portion. Once they are assembled, the faces and edges get some BIN before the final two coats of Pro Classic.

Cheers. Bryan.

 

[bkharman]

Catching up on posting...

I put two of them together (dry fit) and though I noticed that the BIN primer I did on the sticks might have two issues. One would be that the paint would add "thickness" to the joint and that the glue would not adhere as well so I sanded most of the joint.

Quick question...  Do I really need to sand down the BIN (not an issue if I have to) before glueing them up?

2 down...

7 to go before my trip!!

Some additional pics...

By the way... If you don't have a stick fix, it is one of the best and cheapest Festool items you can pick up!

Cheers. Bryan.

 

[BMAC]

Your earlier posts mentioned that you cut the MDF panels with your TS55. I was wondering if you used your table saw to machine the raised panels or if you used a shaper or a router to machine the raised panel edges?

Hitachi makes a great mitre saw. I've got the same 12" with a digital read out which is very accurate and I've used the digital readout to advantage when installing crown to walls on a job site. This is the perfect saw for crown as you make all cuts on the flat after measuring the wall angles using a starrett angle finder then I use an app called "Crown Angle" which tells you what the bevel and mitre angles need to be to cut the crown on the flat.

Awesome saw, but a major PITA to lug around at job site which I'll only do if I'm doing crown, otherwise I use an old school mitre box made by Nobex which creates zero airborn dust and is perfect for the many apartment jobs I'm in daily which is not conducive to set up a mitre saw on site anyways.

 

[bkharman]

Your earlier posts mentioned that you cut the MDF panels with your TS55. I was wondering if you used your table saw to machine the raised panels or if you used a shaper or a router to machine the raised panel edges?

I used the 55 to break down the 4x8 MDF panels mainly. I also used my 75 in the CMS to do some cuts after I realized I didn't quite cut 2 panels right. I used a back cutter bit in my CMS to kill out the MDF panels. I made two passes to ensure I was collecting as much dust as possible from under the 1400 and from the fence.  The router is more than capable of spinning the large bit (at 1-2 speed) and doing the panel in 1 pass but it is a lot of dust and sometimes backs up a bit.

I then used BIN on the panel profiles front and back. If you have never used BIN on MDF, it is heaven sent!  The shellac and alcohol on MDF is perfect as it won't swell up. It dries for sanding in about 20 minutes and is hard as a rock.

Cheers. Bryan.

 

[BMAC]

I've used BIN a fair bit on MDF and agree it is a great product.

I also occasionally do some small drywall wall patches (say 2'x2') on jobs that have had water damages and the aerosol spray can of BIN is my friend for a quick seal on the patch repair so I can do the top coats of paint right away.

I typically use 20 minute fast set drywall mud for the first 2 coats (if patch is very small I'll use some 5 minute mud), then durabond 90 and I'll speed dry things with an air mover and then sand it out with my ETS 150/5, finally hit it with BIN and then final paint sometimes all in one day.

 

[NEW2FES]

Since you are using MDF for raised panel you could have eliminated gap and balls and just glued solid. Balls are for movement in solid wood panel. No harm doing as you did but would have saved you the primer work.

If worried about glue shoot a couple pins in each tenon. Invisible when painted and takes 5 minutes for all doors.

Guys swear there are different grades of MDF and some fuzz and others don't, well as much. If brushing try Sherwin Williams Wood and Wall primer. I always buy when they have a sale as it is just a great primer for wood.

Awesome looking doors!

 

[tiralie]

Bryan.
Nice work.

Quick question...  Do I really need to sand down the BIN (not an issue if I have to) before glueing them up?

It's always easier before assembly than after. There is always some corner or crevice that is almost impossible to get to that would have been easier before assembly.

Tim

 

[bkharman]

Thanks everyone.

[member=7816]Tim Raleigh[/member] , I did a few tests before I skipped town and since the BIN went on so thin, it didn't interfere with the glueing of the joint.  In hindsight, I should have taped it off before rolling the BIN on.  Since all parts were cut at 90 and painted with the same # of coats, it just worked out!  All panels were glued up and will be ready for the next steps when I come back home from my AWS (Amazon) conference.

[member=14303]NEW2FES[/member] , [member=40924]BMAC[/member] , [member=20162]Wuffles[/member] & [member=30413]mike_aa[/member] thanks for the kudos and comments.  These things are square and true and ready for some hinge holes and paint.  So far, very pleased with the progress and the speed at which i was able to move from task to task... getting better each time at things!

cheers.  Bryan.

 

[bkharman]

So I am back and got cracking on getting the doors sanded up for paint and drilling the hinge holes.  A Blum Eco Drill makes quick work of things...

Makes clean holes for the plastic inserts...

In go the hinges to test fit the doors and then it's painting time!

Thanks for looking!  Bryan.

 

[BigCountry73]

Beautiful work!

At the risk of sounding stupid......what is BIN?

Thanks,

Keith

 

[Brice Burrell]

Beautiful work!

At the risk of sounding stupid......what is BIN?

Thanks,

Keith

It's a primer/sealer, you can get it in shellac or oil versions. B-I-N® Shellac-Base Primer 

 

[Cheese]

A shellac based primer manufactured by Zinsser. Drys fast and covers stains, tanin and odors. 

 

[bkharman]

Sometimes you get moving pretty well, and them BAM, you end up drilling your hinge holes into the face of the cabinet door!

Luckily there is a Rockler down the street and luckily they had the patch kits in stock. No maple though, only cheery and oak. I am painting these doors so not a big deal.

Check twice... Drill once is now ever present in my head!

Cheers. Bryan.