Tool for demo of tile countertop and backsplash?

[4nthony]

I've got a countertop and backsplash which is made up of large 18" x 18" x 3/8" (travertine?) tile that I'm looking to remove so I can prep for new countertops.

What kind of tool would assist in removing this without having to simply bust it all out with a sledge hammer? Would something like a rotary hammer with a chisel bit be an appropriate tool or is there something better?

If I go cordless, I'll probably stick with Dewalt as I'm on their battery system -- all my Festool are corded -- but I'm fine with something corded from any brand. Also, I'm also not sure how much use I'll get out of this tool once this project is done so I'm taking cost into consideration.

Suggestions? Thanks!

 

[squall_line]

I've seen oscillating multi-tools (OSC Vecturo, Fein Multimaster) used to scrape out smaller tiles, but I'm not sure about using it on larger (12-18") tiles.

 

[afish]

I live in Florida so I have removed more than my fair share of tile.  I love this thing  Would I use it to demo a full floor? no but for small jobs it rocks.  This all depends on how well the original setter did. Plus it blows away the hammer drill function of the typical hammer drill/drill driver combo.  Im sorry I ever waited to get it. 

 

[Jim Metzger]

I'd start low tech. A 3pound sledge, I call it a lump hammer (also known as a drilling hammer or mini sledge) and a wide cold chisel coming in from the edge and not the surface.  I'd bet those tiles will pop right off.

 

[Cheese]

I used a Milwaukee SDS-Max hammer fitted with a wide chisel blade to remove marble from an entry. Impact only, no rotary motion & attack the edge of the tile from a shallow angle, almost parallel to the surface at times. Sometimes whole tiles will pop at a time.

 

[4nthony]

Awesome, thanks for the info and videos. The rotary hammer models mentioned will get me going in the right direction. I've got a small sledge and a 1" cold chisel that I used to demo some Spanish floor tile about 10 years ago. That was backbreaking, but maybe this tile will be a bit easier. I'll give the sledge and chisel a go for this, but I have a feeling I'll be getting a rotary hammer after a short amount of time.

There's a corded Bosch with tile chisel that isn't too expensive and looks like it might do the trick, although I think I prefer the form factor of the Dewalt posted by [member=73094]afish[/member] as it looks like it might be easier to handle.

 

[afish]

it all depends on how well its set.  I demoed a bathroom that had over an inch of mudset on the walls and 2 layers of lath. That was a bitc! that bath would have lasted forever...The dewalt wouldnt have never handeled that bath. Otherwise, the dewalt is great for walls and tight spots. A larger corded unit is better for floors and will require less bending over.  The dewalt s compact nature back fires for floor work. The cordless is smaller and lighter for tight spots and walls. The dewalt is my go to for that and small bathroom, foyer floors but I break out the Hilti TE 75 for any thing more than that.

 

[Bob D.]

You could rent what you need and keep more cash in your pocket. Sounds like less than a day would
get the job done. That is if you don't see enough need in the future to justify purchasing one. I'd guess
about $60 for a full day, maybe $40 for a half day.

 

[AlexThePalex]

I can't believe people steer you towards a thing like that cordless DeWalt. I've removed lots of tiles on many projects. You want a powerful corded drill for that. That Bosch you posted looks fine, though it is the smallest cordless type you can get. But I have worked with Bosch drills like this, and if the tile is not too hard, it works fine.

Besides power, shape of the tool is important. You want to be able to attack tiles from all different angles. So you want your tool to be long and thin, and not have a big lump on it like the DeWalt. Again, a corded drill like the Bosch has the edge.

If it is a one time job I concur with the suggestion above to rent one.

 

[afish]

I cant believe some people comment without reading the original or subsequent posts.  You did read "countertop" and "backsplash" correct?  That's not the best or easiest location for a large corded unit.  The Dewalt is more of a scalpel not a machete. Every tool has a purpose and its not a one size fits all. I was very truthful and thought I was very clear about its limitations but I guess some people need it dumbed down to 3rd grade level.

The "Dewalt" IS NOT for every situation (just like most tools, DUH...)
1. Will it remove tile that wasn't built to withstand a nuclear blast with minimal effort = YES. 
2. Would I use it for floors = NO. 
3. Would I use it for surgically removing pieces of tile without damaging surrounding tile or the substrate = YES. 
4. Does it work well for getting in tight areas = YES. 
5. Does its nice compact size and light weight make it nice for removing wall tile instead of lifting and maneuvering 30 pounds of tool all day = YES
6. Is it a replacement for a Bosch 11335k = NO
7. Will A smaller Bosch corded unit work too. = YES
8. Does the photo make the dewalt look bigger than it is = YES  The "lump" isnt much bigger than the handle. Its a very compact unit in person.
9. Does it "attack" tile from every direction = YES (actually a long tool like the bosch is going to limit you more since you wont be able to pivot it up/down as much in a backsplash situation)  Also the bit can be rotated or more importantly the tool can be rotated around the bit (just like every rotary hammer I have ever seen) if there is an obstruction such as a wall, cabinet etc. 
10. Do I work for Dewalt or receive any type of compensation if you buy one = NO
11. Do I own this tool, use it and know its capabilities before passing judgement about it = YES
12. Do I care if you buy one = NO
13. Do I know and understand that every tool has its limitations and not every tool is ideal in all situations = YES

8. Will the Dewalt be subject to the typical shortcomings of cordless tool vs. corded tool =YEP.

 

[Cheese]

I agree with Bob & Alex...just rent the hammer that you need unless this type of work is in your future.  Also, bigger is better in this case because you just want to remove the tile and be done with it. If you go with too small of a tool you'll become frustrated and probably revert to a 3# hammer and a chisel. [eek]

From HD rental, the 1st item would be my suggestion, the 2nd item may be ok in a pinch .  Chisels and points are an extra rental.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/rental/Makita-Roto-Hammer-1-1-2-HR4010C/309392088
https://www.homedepot.com/p/rental/Makita-Roto-Hammer-1-HR2811F/309392089

 

[rst]

I use a Milwaukee 1 1/8" M18 rotary hammer and a corded 2" Milwaukee SDS Max to hammer out concreted in commercial door frames regularly and very occasionally tile and flooring.

 

[4nthony]

I agree with Bob & Alex...just rent the hammer that you need unless this type of work is in your future.  Also, bigger is better in this case because you just want to remove the tile and be done with it. If you go with too small of a tool you'll become frustrated and probably revert to a 3# hammer and a chisel. [eek]

From HD rental, the 1st item would be my suggestion, the 2nd item may be ok in a pinch .  Chisels and points are an extra rental.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/rental/Makita-Roto-Hammer-1-1-2-HR4010C/309392088
https://www.homedepot.com/p/rental/Makita-Roto-Hammer-1-HR2811F/309392089

I always forget HD has rentals and yeah, I think you guys are right. Renting might be the best course of action as I don't see a need for this tool in the long term. Thanks for all the feedback!

 

[pixelated]

I needed to turn a peninsula into an island in my kitchen a couple of years ago. I bought a cordless Bosch rotary hammer, somewhat similar to the linked DeWalt one. It worked well, for getting a low angle you just turn the machine on it side and rotate the chisel to whatever orientation you need. I had a previous round of getting through tile countertops using hand tools, the power tool is a great alternative.

For me, buying made sense since I had a few projects queued that need a rotary hammer, I got a reconditioned one for a good price, and it has worked well for me.

 

[shanegrilah]

I see a missed opportunity to get something more fun.

[attachimg=1]

 

[Rob Z]

Hello Anthony

Before starting any work or acquiring tools, I would do some investigation to determine how the tile had been set and what is the substrate.  Get inside the cabinets with a light and take a look at what you can see from the underside and how it might be connected to the cabinets. An earlier poster mentioned a wide cold chisel and small hand sledge.  Use those two tools to try and remove a few tiles at different locations (on the wall, the flat surface of the counter, and any trim on the front of the counter). We demo'd hundreds of tile installations and saw just about every method and product available. An electric chipping hammer isn't going to be the best choice for all installations.

 

[Peter_C]

The counter tops may come out in one piece which is what Rob Z I believe is saying too by looking inside the cabinet.

Bigger is NOT always better. I have a couple SDS Max, a hammer drill and demo hammer, that are useless for finer work. Had to borrow a friends SDS + when chipping stucco for window replacement, as the SDS Max shattered everything.

 

[RJNeal]

Anthony, I have used a Hilti TE 7 , SDS plus for dozens of showers, countertops, and floors.
I think the cordless will work but a little bit slower.
I would look into a rental if this is a one time project.
I highly recommend that you get a tile chisel rather than using a regular chisel.
A tile chisel is sharpen on one side like a wood chisel. It helps keep the point from digging in to the substrate and it also helps pop the tile up. For some reason I can’t post pictures today.
Rick.

 

[4nthony]

There are screws coming through the ply that are probably securing the backer board to the plywood. The plywood is probably secured into the cross braces and/or the cabinet carcass.

On the overhang, there's about a 1/2" gap between the face frame and the backer. The layer of thinset is about a 1/2" and the tile is 3/8" thick. There's some screws that are visible in the gap but my guess is they were meant to secure the backer board into the edge  of the plywood but were driven too low (I didn't see or feel any screw heads on the inside of the face frame to make me think they were driven from that direction).

I think I can start chipping away the tile along the edge, and once some of those are gone, I can get a clean shot at the seam of the top tiles

The idea for this started after we moved into the house earlier this year. We were frustrated with the shelves and small drawers in the cabinets.

I ripped out the shelves and part of the face frames and have been building new drawer boxes.

The ultimate goal is to add some drawer fronts and mimic the look of these cabinets with the vertical slats between the drawers and horizontal pulls. I'll either paint or veneer the existing face frame but with the vertical slats and drawer fronts, you won't really see it until you open a drawer. The cabinets aren't in the best aesthetic shape but they're pretty solid overall and I can definitely work with them. Lipstick on a pig!

My wife, getting excited at the prospects, commented that she'd LOVE a new countertop, and so here I am.  [cool]

 

[Rob Z]

Anthony,

The pics help to get an idea of your project.  Looking at the screws on the inside of the cabinet carcass, up near the top:  are those screws run into the carcass next to it or are they run upward  to bite into the plywood substrate? I was hoping you had the traditional corner blocks in the cabinets that could be cut with a multimaster so you could release the substrate.  But maybe your substrate is as you suggest screwed from the top into the sides of the cabinets and the braces.

I can't figure out what the original installer did along the front of the counter.  Do you have the clearance to run a grinder wheel up between the face frame and the backside of the counter edging so you can cut through those screws? Before I read your comment about 1/2" thick layer of thinset on there my first thought was that they used Denshield as a substrate.  In some ways that would be good for you now because it might come out easily. Are you sure it's thinset?

I think your best step now is to get some of that edging tile off and get an idea of the cross section of the counter.  Maybe it's two layers of plywood. Whether it's double layer plywood or backer board over a single layer of plywood, let's hope there is low bond strength for the setting material and you can pop the tiles off with a wedging action from the side. If so you might be able to expose the screw heads and back those out and lift the sheets without much trouble.  If sure doesn't look like they used very many screws on this.

When I see skimpy work on the substrate details then I think there is a decent chance they cut corners on the setting materials and trowel technique.  So you might well find that these tiles come off without too much brute force.