Track saw blade for fiber hardie board

[John T.]

Hi everyone, quick question on diamond abrasive blades. I'm just a homeowner trying to cut some siding/trim for repairs and retrofits. I don't need the longest lasting blade or some incremental improvement in cut quality, within reason.

It looks like my options are a CMT blade ($100), a Diablo ($50), or the official Festool blade. The CMT and Diablo both are 1.8mm thick, but Festool applications had told me my older TS 55 REQ-F-Plus-FS takes 2.2mm blades. So am I stuck with the $150 Festool 202958?

Assuming the third party blades won't jeopardize the reliability of the saw, I'm inclined to save money since this blade will only be used a handful of times.
https://www.toolpros.com/cmt-236-160-04h-fiber-cement-blade-160mm-x-4-teeth-for-ts-55-hk-55.htmlhttps://www.diablotools.com/products/D0604TSH

 

[live4ever]

Check the Oshlun on Amazon.  Around $60.  I used it recently for cement board - worked great.

 

[John T.]

Check the Oshlun on Amazon.  Around $60.  I used it recently for cement board - worked great.

Good reviews, 2.2mm thick and everything. Thanks for the tip!

 

[Cheese]

I keep a CMT diamond blade in the HKC case. I've used it to cut cementitious backer board for a bathroom and Hardie Plank bevel siding. It works well.

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[John T.]

I keep a CMT diamond blade in the HKC case. I've used it to cut cementitious backer board for a bathroom and Hardie Plank bevel siding. It works well.

[attachimg=1]

Is your saw a newer one that uses 1.8mm thick blades, or do you just have to use a bushing or spacer? I might have completely misunderstood their point but they had told me mine takes 2.2mm blades.

 

[squall_line]

I keep a CMT diamond blade in the HKC case. I've used it to cut cementitious backer board for a bathroom and Hardie Plank bevel siding. It works well.

[attachimg=1]

Is your saw a newer one that uses 1.8mm thick blades, or do you just have to use a bushing or spacer? I might have completely misunderstood their point but they had told me mine takes 2.2mm blades.

Not Cheese, but the HK/HKC was the first Festool saw to use the 1.8mm blades.  The TSC/TS55K redesign in the early 20's was when the TS moved to the 1.8mm blades.

 

[John T.]

Makes sense, thank you. I measured my blade and it's 1.6mm wide, 2.2mm kerf.

I'm going to pick up the Oshlun which looks like it's sized to fit my saw.

 

[Packard]

I would be concerned about what the abrasive concrete dust would do to the bearing surfaces between your saw and the track.

While anodizing is usually thought of as a decorative and protective finish to prevent the formation of aluminum oxide (aluminum “rust”); often forgotten is the fact that the anodizing penetrates the surface and renders it much harder that the original aluminum.

It also reduces friction. 

So that concrete dust, being much harder than the anodized surface promises to destroy those bearing surfaces.

I’m pretty sure I would not use a track saw for cutting cement siding.

A fairly comprehensive description of the wear improvement brought on by anodizing in the link below.  I would note that due the the typically very thin layer of anodizing, conventional Rockwell tests are inappropriate.  The stylus will easily pierce the thin coating and take its reading off of the soft aluminum substrate. There are special surface hardness tests that are useful. 
https://aluminumsurface.blogspot.com/2010/10/hardness-versus-wear-resistance.html

 

[Peter Kelly]

The dust from fiber cement siding is nasty stuff, would recommend getting a nibbler. The one for Hardie Plank is under $150.https://pactool.us/pactool/cutting-tools/snapper-shear/snapper-shear-fiber-cement-siding-shear-1170

 

[Jim_in_PA]

I agree with Packard and Peter...I'd eschew using my tracksaw for this application due to the abrasive and potentially damaging effect of the fine dust; rather, I'd use a less expensive circular saw with an appropriate blade for the fiber cement siding product. (and have more than one blade on hand as they don't last long with this stuff. Wear appropriate PPE when cutting it, too.

 

[tjbnwi]

I’ve used the CMT FC blade on one of my TS-55’s for years, no issues at all. I also use the CMT TS-75 blade on one of my Kapex’s.

Use dust extraction and wipe down thew saw and track when done.

I’ve also been know to cut drywall with the TS-55.

Tom

 

[Kevin D.]

I’ve used the CMT FC blade on one of my TS-55’s for years, no issues at all. I also use the CMT TS-75 blade on one of my Kapex’s.

Use dust extraction and wipe down thew saw and track when done.

I’ve also been know to cut drywall with the TS-55.

Tom

Pretty well what I was about to write although I only have the CMT fiber cement blade for my TS75.

My other device I use to cut Hardie is a Bullet shearer.  No dust.

They are owned by Marshalltown now.
https://marshalltown.com/bullet-tools

 

[Cheese]

Is your saw a newer one that uses 1.8mm thick blades, or do you just have to use a bushing or spacer? I might have completely misunderstood their point but they had told me mine takes 2.2mm blades.

I originally purchased the CMT ITK blade for use with the TS 55, I then moved it to the TSC 55 and it now lives with the HKC 55. It has a kerf of 2.4 mm, the part number is 236.160.04H.

And yes...as squall_line noted, the HKC was the first Festool saw to take 1.8 mm kerf blades.

 

[jonnyrocket]

My other device I use to cut Hardie is a Bullet shearer.  No dust.
They are owned by Marshalltown now.https://marshalltown.com/bullet-tools

I’ve always wondered what the end of the hardie plank looks like after it is shear cut. Is it good enough to leave as an exposed butt joint, or must you tuck the sheared ends behind the corner trim?

Also, how tired does your arm get using the shear all day with hardie plank?

 

[Kevin D.]

My other device I use to cut Hardie is a Bullet shearer.  No dust.
They are owned by Marshalltown now.https://marshalltown.com/bullet-tools

I’ve always wondered what the end of the hardie plank looks like after it is shear cut. Is it good enough to leave as an exposed butt joint, or must you tuck the sheared ends behind the corner trim?

Also, how tired does your arm get using the shear all day with hardie plank?

Good questions.

The butt ends need painting as all cut ends do even tucked under corner trim or caulked over per Hardie guidance if only arriving near the corner trim. 

More specifically to your question, the butt ends are NOT nice and smooth on the face of the cut like they are using the CMT blade for Hardie with my Ts75 otherwise and will show some pitted areas in the cut, but not of any consequence if you are painting them anyways.  The edges are square and perfect otherwise.

In regards to arm tiredness in using the Bullet Shearer, I found the arm that came with it is in fact a chore to cut the Hardie boards with.  I replaced mine immediately quite easily with a standard stock of metal square hollow bar quite easily that is about a foot and a half longer or so than the bar that came with it.

It was easy to do.  Even drilled the little locking hole and spring insert for the indexing pin from the old arm into the new one.  Might have been 15 mins work all around to make myself the new one.  I had the steel bar on hand and didn't have to buy a new one.

What the shearer is also primo at, which I use it also for is cutting shingles to size before installing.  Even architectural 30-35 year shingles just get cut like a breeze with a nice clean cut.  There is no tar residue build-up on the blade either.  The rocks on the shingles do not jagged the edge of the blade either.

I have a second blade that had dulled somewhat after 1000s of cuts of Hardie that I use this for.  The sharpness needed to cut shingles doesn't require a super sharp blade.

I sharpen my two blades myself with my Tormek wet grinder also alternating them back and forth as needed. 

I use my TS75 with the Hardie CMT blade for severe angle cuts and for rip cuts primarily.  I also use a jig saw once in a while with a diamond blade for cutting intricate cuts in the Hardie.  The Bullet Shearer is used for low angle or square end cuts.  I even set my Bullet Shearer on it's own collapsible portable stand for ease of use.  Along with a couple of those pop-up support stands or my Ketter work tables in the mix, the shearer is doing 90% of the work when I install Hardie.