Michael Kellough
Member
I’ll check it out, when I discover which stack it’s hiding in. The Mafell gets used a lot more because the red on the Sys makes it easier to find.
Track saw guidance?
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Cheese
Member
Does a quick shot of DeoxIT clean the pot?
luvmytoolz
Member
Depends how dirty/carbonised the contacts have become and how much dust has accumulated. On some tools I've also had to bend the wiper arm for better contact to get them working as the springyness had gone over time.
While you have it open a little scrape to expose some fresh metal in part wouldn't hurt.
Cheese
Member
So your first answer is a good one.
On the 2nd issue of rebending the brush arm to ensure better contact, that seems to be a temporary solution at best as metal fatigue will ultimately prevail.
As much as I enjoy owning "older items" I've learned that the maintenance issues can be extreme...almost to a fault. I want to be a Jay Leno but, I don't have his financial resources.
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luvmytoolz
Member
It actually takes very little to bend it so more pressure/contact is applied if it's warranted. I've never needed to do this more than once on any tool, and some of my tools are ancient! ;-)So your first answer is a good one.
On the 2nd issue of rebending the brush arm to ensure better contact, that seems to be a temporary solution at best as metal fatigue will ultimately prevail.
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I have (and use) all three of the corded TS My choice, no contest, is TS60. Unless you absolutely need the extra depth of the TS75, a TS60 will give you the most versatility. It is lighter and more compact, while still cutting deeper than a 55.
TS75 is great, for what it can do, but it is huge, heavy, and way overkill for most cuts.(especially sheet goods)
TS75 is great, for what it can do, but it is huge, heavy, and way overkill for most cuts.(especially sheet goods)
Jim_in_PA
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If you do a lot of veneer sheet goods, the scoring capability of the TSV can provide cleaner cuts at the expense of a little longer length for start/stop on the track. While I do use my track saw for ripping sheet goods (my slider is a short stroke) I personally would probably still opt for the non-scoring "60" because a good percentage of my track saw use is more general purpose.
This isn't about the saw itself, but since it's come up here I recommend that if you plan to buy a 3000mm rail it's wise to pick it up somewhere local, if possible. The shipping on those is wild, since they have to go on a semi.
Until you cut stuff with internal tension, then the lack of a riving knife is a big minus.
How often are you getting kickback? With hardwood I assume?
I’m going out on a limb and guessing that any festool saw will be better than my 30 year old skillsaw. That cuts ply, and shreds the top layer. Are you seeing tears with your TS?
Thanks to the riving knives on my TS 55's & HK 85; never. Kickback, as in the saw lifting off the rail, is just a symptom of the problem.
The riving knife prevents most of the actual problem, the sensor on the K saws just prevents a bloody consequence of the problem and not the problem itself.
The sensor won't prevent the cut closing on the blade, ruined cut quality, burning on the rear of the blade, ruined anti-splinter strip, etc.
Not even hardwood; even PIR boards often have internal tension. The removal of the riving knife was just stupid. They could have added that sensor and left the riving knife in place.
Jim_in_PA
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Even an older tracksaw is better than an old skillsaw (or the 1980s B&D I own that's in nearly new condition) for quality cuts! I personally consider a "traditional" hand-held circular saw and a tracksaw to be two different tools for two different primary purposes and I use them that way, too. I do not get any issues with tearing on the top of the material. Why? The track and the zero clearance strip on the edge of the track. It holds the top of the material down. The 60 with the scoring blade just adds even more assurance to the equations. I have a scoring blade on my sliding table saw and I do use it when I'm cutting "delicate" veneer sheet goods for the same reason, except it's the bottom edge that it preserves...the exact opposite of a hand-held saw.
Another vote for TS60 (even though I don't have a track saw anymore).
I sold my TS75. If a TS55 or TS60 can meet most of your needs, you wouldn't enjoy using the TS75 just because it has a deeper cutting capacity that you use it once in blue moon.
I sold my TS75. If a TS55 or TS60 can meet most of your needs, you wouldn't enjoy using the TS75 just because it has a deeper cutting capacity that you use it once in blue moon.
onocoffee
Member
Like the others, I think the TSV is good if you're cutting melamine or sheets with veneers. The riving knife question is one to consider - especially if you're cutting lumber. I work lesser with sheet goods (only for shop projects) and most of my cuts with the TS 55 F is on slabs like walnut, cherry, etc. There have definitely been times when the tension in those cuts were tight and the riving knife was there to prevent drama. Never had the TS jump the rail but you can hear/feel it getting bogged down and a couple of times, I've stopped the cut, reduced the depth and made a couple passes.
But if you're mainly sheet goods, a lot of people seem to like the 60. I got the 55 because it was cheaper and have not missed the extra 5mm.
But if you're mainly sheet goods, a lot of people seem to like the 60. I got the 55 because it was cheaper and have not missed the extra 5mm.
Ok so the verdict isn’t on the 60! I agree I don’t want kickback. Most cuts would be for ply, or lengths of hardwood where I need to square an edge (no jointer) or long cuts where I don’t feel the table saw is worth the risk. Most hardwood is 4/4 to 8/4.
Given even lumber these days is dried so quick and grows so fast there are many twists in the wood, so perhaps an important consideration.
Given even lumber these days is dried so quick and grows so fast there are many twists in the wood, so perhaps an important consideration.
tjbnwi
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The only time the extra 5mm really matters is if you are cutting/ripping 45º bevels on 3/4 stock. The 60 will reach through the board, the 55 will not. Not sure but I think the 60 is a little lighter.
The electronic kickback system on the 60 works really well.
Tom
The electronic kickback system on the 60 works really well.
Tom
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My vote is always for TS60. I already had the TS55 and just kept it as a secondary. I kept it fitted with a blade specifically for cutting Corian, which is funny, because that is why I was so keen on the TS60 from the beginning. That extra little bit of cut depth is enough to cut mitered ends for waterfall drops of 1 1/2" countertops. The TS55 can't do that, especially on the track, which is really important for that task.
The TS60 simply feels better in the hand. The brushless motor is a lot narrower and does not hang over the track, to the left side. I slightly prefer the depth adjustment of the 55, but still would choose the 60 over it every time.
TS75 is a completely different beast. I only ever use it for thick hardwood. It has the old style cam adjusters, for track fitment and is very heavy, in comparison.
The TS60 simply feels better in the hand. The brushless motor is a lot narrower and does not hang over the track, to the left side. I slightly prefer the depth adjustment of the 55, but still would choose the 60 over it every time.
TS75 is a completely different beast. I only ever use it for thick hardwood. It has the old style cam adjusters, for track fitment and is very heavy, in comparison.
I have a need for 8/4 hardwood but can’t justify 2 saws. It’s rare I’m cutting long lengths of thick hardwood so can manage in other ways.
I’m a race guy (of cars) so by default I have to trust your view
Any opinion on tracks? I assumed it was as simple as a saw, a track. Seemingly, not.
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