Track saw guidance?

[mino]

I have a need for 8/4 hardwood but can’t justify 2 saws. It’s rare I’m cutting long lengths of thick hardwood so can manage in other ways.
I’m a race guy (of cars) so by default I have to trust your view

Any opinion on tracks? I assumed it was as simple as a saw, a track. Seemingly, not.

1)
If you are a newbie, get three tracks + a set of Makita connectors. Use one of the tracks to align the other two when joining:
FS/2 1080
FS/2 1400 LR 32
FS/2 1900 (or FS/2 1900 KP)
Makita connectors set

2)
Augment this set with:
FS-WA in the FS/2 accessories set
a second FS/2 1400 LR 32 which you cut into an 800 LR32 and a 600 mm LR 32 for "handy" use
a TSO parallel guides set
an LR32 plate /the minimal package is adequate-ish, no need for the full shebang set/


Avoid Makita tracks, they are cheap but not /as/ straight.
Treat your tracks with the utmost care. They are your measuring instruments.

 

[Lincoln]

1)
If you are a newbie, get three tracks + a set of Makita connectors. Use one of the tracks to align the other two when joining:
FS/2 1080
FS/2 1400 LR 32
FS/2 1900 (or FS/2 1900 KP)
Makita connectors set

2)
Augment this set with:
FS-WA in the FS/2 accessories set
a second FS/2 1400 LR 32 which you cut into an 800 LR32 and a 600 mm LR 32 for "handy" use
a TSO parallel guides set
an LR32 plate /the minimal package is adequate-ish, no need for the full shebang set/


Avoid Makita tracks, they are cheap but not /as/ straight.
Treat your tracks with the utmost care. They are your measuring instruments.

Why the Makita connectors, Mino?

 

[mino]

Why the Makita connectors, Mino?

They are not self-aligning and are non-marking. Meaning:
- their 'precision' is not limited by the short part of the track the connector interfaces with
- they can be tightened 'to the hilt', allowing for the most reliable connection /makes it practical for semi-permanently joining rails/
- if you learn how to align tracks for joining, you have a fall-back and a reference point once/if you move to self-aligning connectors for daily use

They are also the cheapest option.

Basically, you should have a set of the Makita connectors irrespective if you end up using them on a daily basis or not. This makes them the obvious first-buy item.

Makita patented the design, so Festool cannot sell a similar design even if wanted..

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I have a need for 8/4 hardwood but can’t justify 2 saws. It’s rare I’m cutting long lengths of thick hardwood so can manage in other ways.
I’m a race guy (of cars) so by default I have to trust your view

Any opinion on tracks? I assumed it was as simple as a saw, a track. Seemingly, not.

In my experience, there is a difference, though it is limited. All of my tracks are Festool, but the company I used to work for "experimented" with a Makita saw. The saw itself was fine, but the track had a slight bow. For most cuts, it didn't matter, but occasionally there was a need to cut a butt joint. This left a gap in the middle, by compounding the slight error.
That was my only experience, until my apprentice went with Milwaukee. He only has the one track, but so far it has been ok.

Mino covered the connector info, to which I agree totally. My first set of connectors was the original Festool offering. In two words, "they suck", there has been a subsequent V2, which are better. I was later loaned a Makita pair, to test, and they are much better. I went straight from the originals to the Makita.

 

[Michael Kellough]

The later Festool rail connectors and the TSO connectors have a wedging function will automatically make the connector slots in both rails align. Works great, as long as both rails are EXACTLY the same width. They seldom are. For best results use the Makita connectors and the Betterley rig that keeps the rails aligned while the connectors are tightened. You can use a straight edge or level instead of the Betterley rig but an extra hand is helpful. A fairly good compromise is to use the newer Festool or TSO connector in the main slot (the one that guides the saw) and use a Makita in the outside slot.

 

[luvmytoolz]

The later Festool rail connectors and the TSO connectors have a wedging function will automatically make the connector slots in both rails align. Works great, as long as both rails are EXACTLY the same width. They seldom are.

I've seen this mentioned a few times now and it sorta baffles me, given it's an extrusion the differences should almost be immeasurable. Certainly not obvious to the naked eye as has been mentioned.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I've seen this mentioned a few times now and it sorta baffles me, given it's an extrusion the differences should almost be immeasurable. Certainly not obvious to the naked eye as has been mentioned.

The real go-to move here is to be sure that the smaller one is downstream. The minor misalignment won't show in the cut, but it will catch the saw as it comes to it.

 

[Jim_in_PA]

My "shortie" utility track is a Makita that I picked up new "for a song" and it's just fine. I have a typical 1400 Festool track and an 8 footer available in the shop for the wider/longer cuts. I don't want to be involved with joining two tracks, honestly.

 

[Michael Kellough]

I've seen this mentioned a few times now and it sorta baffles me, given it's an extrusion the differences should almost be immeasurable. Certainly not obvious to the naked eye as has been mentioned.

Even though they are all extruded, my Festool rails vary in width .9mm from narrowest to widest.

 

[mino]

Even though they are all extruded, my Festool rails vary in width .9mm from narrowest to widest.

0.09 mm, not 0.9 mm, likely their target spec is +/- <0.05 mm

You are an order of magnitude off here.

And yes, that variation is still excellent for a non-machined extrusion. That is pretty much the best possible across manufacturing runs.
And yes, that variation affects only the "getting stuck" scenario which CRG mentioned.

With non-self-aligning connectors of the Makita style, you align the rail based on the reference edge the saw rides on, this means any width variation has no impact on the cut itself.
/and it also means re-calibrating PGs is a must if one uses the scales on them/

 

[luvmytoolz]

I was thinking 0.9mm was an unusually large size difference.