Track saw guidance?

[Crazyraceguy]

For many folks, the cost of the long rail comes into play, but I do agree that if it's a common need, the long track is the way to go and could be worthy of the investment. I bought mine many years ago and the cost was less, but probably "similar" in the relative value of money. If I was going to buy a long track today and not going to be using it frequently, I'd probably take a chance on the Makita due to cost, but that's me.

I got mine long enough ago that it was before the recent jumps. In my circumstance, having one-piece was definitely a worthy time saver.
On the 3000 rails, I might take that chance too. The slight bow I saw with the shorter one, would not necessarily be a big deal over a 9' seam. But, and that's a big But, only if I could buy it locally (where they would honor a return)

I had to join to the 3000 twice. Both times was cutting some rubberized cork material, for bulletin boards. The cuts were a little over 12 feet. I might even have a pic, I know I took one at the time.

 

[onocoffee]

I ended up coming across a Milwaukee 106" rail (2700mm) at the Habitat for Humanity Restore one day. Brand new in the box for $125. Thought that was a crazy good deal (compared to the FT 2700 at $499) and bought it - even though I don't typically work with sheet goods. A couple weeks ago, I ended up needing to break down a full sheet and that made it so much easier.

The Milwaukee splinter guard feels more brittle than the FT and it features and anti-tip rib out on the outer track - meaning that the FT stops will not fit to the rail. Otherwise, my TS 55 worked perfectly well on it. Normal price on the Milwaukee is just over half the FT at $270.

 

[Leo95se]

I bought the 60! Thanks to everyone for advice. A follow up rail question please. It sounds like a 1400 rail is too short for a 48” cut. Is this true? I was going for, per Mino, starting with a 1400 and 1900 to get me to cross cut a sheet and rip a sheet. It sounds like ‘hangover’ makes these too short.
I like the idea of the LR rail to benefit my router, but am now at an impasse as I’d like to try to stick to 2 rails to start.

 

[onocoffee]

I bought the 60! Thanks to everyone for advice. A follow up rail question please. It sounds like a 1400 rail is too short for a 48” cut. Is this true? I was going for, per Mino, starting with a 1400 and 1900 to get me to cross cut a sheet and rip a sheet. It sounds like ‘hangover’ makes these too short.
I like the idea of the LR rail to benefit my router, but am now at an impasse as I’d like to try to stick to 2 rails to start.

You can make it work, but the 1900 will be more comfortable.

Once you dial in the cams to align the base with the rail, you'll need to cut the splinter guard. It's best to do this without extending the base plate off the edge of the rail - this keeps the cams firmly in the track, but it also means you can't cut the entire length of the rail without joining it to another. Of course, you CAN cut it but that may leave those few inches on either end a little "off".

If you do decide to use the 1400 to cut the 48", be sure to start the saw and allow it to fully spool up before plunging the blade. Take your time with the plunge. Too fast and it can kickback and jump off the rail.

 

[Leo95se]

You can make it work, but the 1900 will be more comfortable.

Once you dial in the cams to align the base with the rail, you'll need to cut the splinter guard. It's best to do this without extending the base plate off the edge of the rail - this keeps the cams firmly in the track, but it also means you can't cut the entire length of the rail without joining it to another. Of course, you CAN cut it but that may leave those few inches on either end a little "off".

If you do decide to use the 1400 to cut the 48", be sure to start the saw and allow it to fully spool up before plunging the blade. Take your time with the plunge. Too fast and it can kickback and jump off the rail.

I think I understand, thanks. Never having used a track saw (circular saw + 2x4 old school), it sounds like it’ll be short on spin up clearance so a slow plunge into instead of driving into the face. Appreciate the quick reply! Of course I could use a 1900 for cross cuts (ply) but then I’m mathing that a 14 and 19 will lead to same challenge on full sheets. Not a big deal.

 

[onocoffee]

I think I understand, thanks. Never having used a track saw (circular saw + 2x4 old school), it sounds like it’ll be short on spin up clearance so a slow plunge into instead of driving into the face. Appreciate the quick reply! Of course I could use a 1900 for cross cuts (ply) but then I’m mathing that a 14 and 19 will lead to same challenge on full sheets. Not a big deal.

Actually, if you join together a 1400 and 1900 rail, you'll have about 129 inches of rail. This is more than adequate to rip a full 8' sheet. I use a 2700mm (106") Milwaukee rail for that. I think a 1400 and 1900 combination is a good set. That said, even two 1400 rails connected will be adequate. If you do decide to buy a second 1400, consider the FS 1400/2-LR 32. This one has the holes for the LR-32 system. You might not need it now, but should you ever decide to get into it, you'll already have one of the major components and the price difference between the plain jane 1400 is $26.

 

[mino]

I bought the 60! Thanks to everyone for advice. A follow up rail question please. It sounds like a 1400 rail is too short for a 48” cut. Is this true? I was going for, per Mino, starting with a 1400 and 1900 to get me to cross cut a sheet and rip a sheet. It sounds like ‘hangover’ makes these too short.
I like the idea of the LR rail to benefit my router, but am now at an impasse as I’d like to try to stick to 2 rails to start.

If you are short on cash and can afford only two rails, you are better off with a 1080 and a 1900 than the 1400 and 1900.

It gives you a shorter, easier to handle rail for those routine cuts and those two joined together are a bit over the ideal*) length for full rips where 3300 mm is a bit too long for those.**)

Though if budget is that tight, I would advise to go for 800+1080+1900+Makita connectors any day over 1400+1900+self-aligning connectors.

*) "Ideal" length for cuts is about 400 mm cumulative overhang on both sides. 300 mm at the start, 100mm at the end. So 1900+ is for 5' Baltic birch, about 2900+ for full rips, 1000+ for 24" cabinet sides.
**) The 1400+1900 is the ideal combo for the "European" 2800x2070 sheets of chipboard .. not sure how common those are in US.

 

[Michael Kellough]

If you are short on cash and can afford only two rails, you are better off with a 1080 and a 1900 than the 1400 and 1900.

It gives you a shorter, easier to handle rail for those routine cuts and those two joined together are a bit over the ideal*) length for full rips where 3300 mm is a bit too long for those.**)

Though if budget is that tight, I would advise to go for 800+1080+1900+Makita connectors any day over 1400+1900+self-aligning connectors.

*) "Ideal" length for cuts is about 400 mm cumulative overhang on both sides. 300 mm at the start, 100mm at the end. So 1900+ is for 5' Baltic birch, about 2900+ for full rips, 1000+ for 24" cabinet sides.
**) The 1400+1900 is the ideal combo for the "European" 2800x2070 sheets of chipboard .. not sure how common those are in US.

I think in the US Festool teacksaws come with a 1400mm guide rail by default.

 

[Leo95se]

Thanks all! Amazingly helpful group

 

[Leo95se]

Sorry final question, I hope! To square the rails the fs/pa is the best and only option? Seems critical that if you’re cutting you can ensure a square edge.

 

[tjbnwi]

Sorry final question, I hope! To square the rails the fs/pa is the best and only option? Seems critical that if you’re cutting you can ensure a square edge.

Track Saw Accessories | Woodworking Tools | TSO Products

USA-made woodworking tools and accessories by TSO Products—designed to help you work smarter, faster, and safer. Shop innovative solutions built for real-world needs.

tsoproducts.com

 

[Michael Kellough]

Sorry final question, I hope! To square the rails the fs/pa is the best and only option? Seems critical that if you’re cutting you can ensure a square edge.

First get the biggest squarest square you can. Even then, trust but verify applies.
Sometimes (like the first crosscut on plywood) you need to use the 3-4-5 method to verify.
After that you can use well adjusted parallel guides.

 

[AJD3]

My policy is to buy equipment and/or accessories as the need arises. Availability of Festool accessories has been good. My one exception is the Woodpecker’s One Time Tools. At the time I ordered a square from the One Time line of tools, the lead times were excessive.

For 99% of the options you will want, they will be readily available. So consider waiting until you establish a need.

If you have an issue with track saw operation, ask FOG how others have resolved it. Then choose your accessories or modify your work methods accordingly.

The issue of buying equipment in anticipation of need, is that the need might never occur and you will have spent money and used up shop space on things you don’t need.

This is the Way.

I think you really hit the nail on the head - tools have specific uses and different circular saws each have their place and are different from each other in big and little ways because they are purpose built.

I like the dual battery 55 because it was what I needed in terms of size, it’s portability, and because of the anti-kickback feature and brushless motor. Those features made me pick it over the corded 55. I’m mostly cutting sheet goods or thinner lumber, so a deeper vertical or bevel plunge wasn’t a feature for me.

Cheers!
A

 

[onocoffee]

Sorry final question, I hope! To square the rails the fs/pa is the best and only option? Seems critical that if you’re cutting you can ensure a square edge.

The FS-PA are a fine choice. I have a set. A lot of the others seem to prefer the TSO version. I've used mine to cut sheets, but cutting sheets is very unusual in my work, so it happens very infrequently. I find that parallel guides are best when you're doing multiples of the same cuts. It can be helpful for single cuts, but it's a lot of setup for each cut.

One of the most important things to remember for success is to cut a reference edge on your sheet. In both the Festool Live and SedgeTool videos, Sedge demonstrates on how to do this with a plywood sheet. You take the Guide Rail Limit Stop (one usually comes with the TS) and use the lip to set the rail about 6mm from the factory edge. Cut the sheet and you've got a straight reference edge that you will use to base all other measurements and angles. Factory edges can be imprecise - even though they look square when stacked at the yard. This eliminates that risk.

Another approach is just to measure and mark precisely - just remember to set the rail on your mark the same way each time - to make the same cut. Cutting on opposing sides of the line will result in at least a 1.8 to 2.2mm offset from piece to piece, depending on the kerf of your blade, and even more depending on your precision. Just take your time and double-check. It will seem slow, tedious and even frustrating. But as you continue to work consciously, you get into the rhythm and it comes together much easier.

 

[Leo95se]

The FS-PA are a fine choice. I have a set. A lot of the others seem to prefer the TSO version. I've used mine to cut sheets, but cutting sheets is very unusual in my work, so it happens very infrequently. I find that parallel guides are best when you're doing multiples of the same cuts. It can be helpful for single cuts, but it's a lot of setup for each cut.

One of the most important things to remember for success is to cut a reference edge on your sheet. In both the Festool Live and SedgeTool videos, Sedge demonstrates on how to do this with a plywood sheet. You take the Guide Rail Limit Stop (one usually comes with the TS) and use the lip to set the rail about 6mm from the factory edge. Cut the sheet and you've got a straight reference edge that you will use to base all other measurements and angles. Factory edges can be imprecise - even though they look square when stacked at the yard. This eliminates that risk.

Another approach is just to measure and mark precisely - just remember to set the rail on your mark the same way each time - to make the same cut. Cutting on opposing sides of the line will result in at least a 1.8 to 2.2mm offset from piece to piece, depending on the kerf of your blade, and even more depending on your precision. Just take your time and double-check. It will seem slow, tedious and even frustrating. But as you continue to work consciously, you get into the rhythm and it comes together much easier.

In my current use case example I want to square and final dim sides of a live edge vanity top. So, my best and only ref edge is the back side. Since this came off a slab and I squared as best I could I don’t have that perfect starting point, hence my question.
Agree the 3,4,5 approach is likely smartest to triple check.
Thanks!

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Actually, if you join together a 1400 and 1900 rail, you'll have about 129 inches of rail. This is more than adequate to rip a full 8' sheet. I use a 2700mm (106") Milwaukee rail for that. I think a 1400 and 1900 combination is a good set. That said, even two 1400 rails connected will be adequate. If you do decide to buy a second 1400, consider the FS 1400/2-LR 32. This one has the holes for the LR-32 system. You might not need it now, but should you ever decide to get into it, you'll already have one of the major components and the price difference between the plain jane 1400 is $26.

They used to be the same price (in NA) It was news to me that this was not the case world-wide. I would agree completely that everyone should have the LR32, even if they don't need it immediately.
Rail lengths are purely subjective and totally based upon the needs of the user. I used mine mostly for sheet goods for years and have somewhat morphed into straightening rough sawn hardwood.
My 3000 rail is a bit of a handful, in my small shop, but I wouldn't part with it. I used it almost daily, back in the big cabinet shop days.

 

[tjbnwi]

In my current use case example I want to square and final dim sides of a live edge vanity top. So, my best and only ref edge is the back side. Since this came off a slab and I squared as best I could I don’t have that perfect starting point, hence my question.
Agree the 3,4,5 approach is likely smartest to triple check.
Thanks!

In this case, set the vanity, make a template using drywall shim and hot glue.

Set the template on the top eyeballing it to be pleasing to the eye with the live edge and grain. Mark the top and make you cuts.

Tom