Track Tubes MFT top

I am missing something about attaching the Dashboard rail clamp to the TrackTubes or are you using something attached to the Tracktube to hold the Dashboard clamp?
 
John Russell said:
I am missing something about attaching the Dashboard rail clamp to the TrackTubes or are you using something attached to the Tracktube to hold the Dashboard clamp?

See Reply #45
 
Thanks, but bear with me here, but the general idea is that the Tracktubes function as the base for the top which overlaps the Tracktube.  Then the T15 extrusion is attached flush to the edge of the table and then the Dashboard clamps attach to that.  I assume you could also use Rob's https://dashboardpws.com/products/universal-track-star for cuts as well?
 
[member=296]John Russell[/member] Correct. I suppose you could, I don't own that product from Rob. My setup, I drop the fence in, attach a guide rail, square it up and go. I know [member=63307]Grev[/member] just uses dogs now. I prefer having a pivoting guide rail and fence.

With the way my table is setup the guide rail gets registered against two dogs the same every time. The fence is always dropped into the same two dog holes using benchdogs.co.uk fence dogs. I have a calibrated measuring tape applied to my fence. As long as the guide rail is tight to the two dogs when I put it on, then the whole thing is square and calibrated.

 
So I finally started to do the bottom for my tracktubes top.
I went with kreg 64” x 28” universal bench.
6331fb6f45830944fa131bc3dde09787.jpg


My question is how do I secure tracktube extrusions to the metal frame? Not sure what connector to use.
Also I was thinking of doing melamine or plywood on the top of the bench and putting tracktubes on top of that
Here is a mock up
0d9b25f3cb32f1683732e2b8d69108dd.jpg


This way I can use the gap for fence, track storage etc and keep the dust away from the inside where I’m planning to put a cabinet with drawers

Any suggestions on which way to go and what top to use?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Are you alright with a few holes in the top of the table?

I attach my fence to my Parf table using  Parf Anchor dogs.  You could attach them to the bottom of these rails and then just drop them in place when needed. The downside is the rails would have the PAD’s attached all the time and you’d have a few holes in your top … I’d solve the holes with a 3D printed plug when not in use.
https://www.axminstertools.com/us/ujk-technology-parf-anchor-dogs-106323
 
Bugsysiegals said:
Are you alright with a few holes in the top of the table?

I attach my fence to my Parf table using  Parf Anchor dogs.  You could attach them to the bottom of these rails and then just drop them in place when needed. The downside is the rails would have the PAD’s attached all the time and you’d have a few holes in your top … I’d solve the holes with a 3D printed plug when not in use.
https://www.axminstertools.com/us/ujk-technology-parf-anchor-dogs-106323

Thats not a bad idea.  I have track dogs that i might use for this. 
 
I’m considering a set of TrackTubes but hesitant on the 90” since they wouldn’t fit in the bed of my pickup if I ever traveled with them. Does anybody with 72” set regret not getting the 90” set?
 
Bugsysiegals said:
I’m considering a set of TrackTubes but hesitant on the 90” since they wouldn’t fit in the bed of my pickup if I ever traveled with them. Does anybody with 72” set regret not getting the 90” set?

I bought my tubes few years ago before the t-track was added to both sides. I'm a hobbyist working out of a garage shop and the 90" is perfect for setting up an 8' long work table using 3-mft style slabs but for around the house they were too long so I bought a second set and cut them in two (50" pair and 40" pair). One set for a single slab top and the other for a two slab top.

Mike
 
is there any difference between these and regular aluminum extrusion?  Perhaps wider so they don’t wobble in sawhorses?
 
Bugsysiegals said:
is there any difference between these and regular aluminum extrusion?  Perhaps wider so they don’t wobble in sawhorses?

That's basically it, they're sized to fit a standard sawhorse notch without wobbling around.  It's essentially just a 2x4 that won't warp or splinter.  They're VERY straight, too.  I think 200 bucks is totally fair, but not everybody will.  Kinda like another brand you might have heard of.....

To your other question, if your truck holds more than 72", I'd get the 90's and cut em down to whatever your max length is.  There's nothing magical about the 90" dimension.  Closer to 96, the better for holding a full sheet, that's all.
 
You can offset the tops cantilevered on the 72" to whatever length you need.  For an 8' work top that would only be 12" on each end of the 72" rails.

I have the 72" and think they are fine for an 8' top.  I haven't had any issues  using the 72" on an 8' OAL top.

I have 5 top sections total for a variety of worktop surfaces that I can use for multiple configurations and also made a top for my Conturo edge bander so it fits between the rails and can use my other sections for the extension on the conturo top. 

 
cdconey said:
You can offset the tops cantilevered on the 72" to whatever length you need.  For an 8' work top that would only be 12" on each end of the 72" rails.

I have the 72" and think they are fine for an 8' top.  I haven't had any issues  using the 72" on an 8' OAL top.

I have 5 top sections total for a variety of worktop surfaces that I can use for multiple configurations and also made a top for my Conturo edge bander so it fits between the rails and can use my other sections for the extension on the conturo top.

Thanks for sharing, so you have pics?  I’m wondering if it wouldn’t be better for me specifically to use the 1.5” thick aluminum extrusion i used to build an outfeed table since it has the side slots which fit my dashboard hinge rail …
 
With the 90" rails you can cut a foot or so off of each end and then make sliding extensions. Remove them and use just the center sections of the two rails if you want a shorter set-up. The extensions allow for a lot of extra length options and store away inside the longer sections for transport or storage. If you don't need optional space, I think you would be fine with the 72" length for cutting full sheets of plywood.
Sliding crosspieces allow for lots of flexibility. Sacrificial strips help when using the tracksaw.

I bought mine before the track on the bottom was added. I remember when receiving mine, I thought to myself, it sure would be nice if they also put a track on the bottom. Three months later, they did. That's one I wish I'd waited on a little longer. But then, isn't that always the case regarding upgrades.
 

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Mortiser said:
With the 90" rails you can cut a foot or so off of each end and then make sliding extensions. Remove them and use just the center sections of the two rails if you want a shorter set-up. The extensions allow for a lot of extra length options and store away inside the longer sections for transport or storage. If you don't need optional space, I think you would be fine with the 72" length for cutting full sheets of plywood.
Sliding crosspieces allow for lots of flexibility. Sacrificial strips help when using the tracksaw.

I bought mine before the track on the bottom was added. I remember when receiving mine, I thought to myself, it sure would be nice if they also put a track on the bottom. Three months later, they did. That's one I wish I'd waited on a little longer. But then, isn't that always the case regarding upgrades.

Really slick, I like what you’ve done there!
 
John Russell said:
I am missing something about attaching the Dashboard rail clamp to the TrackTubes or are you using something attached to the Tracktube to hold the Dashboard clamp?

TRACKTUBES were originally designed (by me) so I could have a quick and easy setup to use with my folding sawhorses and an MFT top.  I wanted a hollow core for telescoping extensions and tracks that would fit my Festool track clamps (as well as others I owned).  Since my top extended over the edges of tubes, I just attached a bracket to the edge so I could use my guide rail hinge.  I now attach a length of 1010 series t-slot extrusion, so I have a full length t-track on both sides and it also serves to keep the top flat when storing.  Super quick to set up/take down and it all stores flat on the wall.
 

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Grev said:
John Russell said:
I am missing something about attaching the Dashboard rail clamp to the TrackTubes or are you using something attached to the Tracktube to hold the Dashboard clamp?

TRACKTUBES were originally designed (by me) so I could have a quick and easy setup to use with my folding sawhorses and an MFT top.  I wanted a hollow core for telescoping extensions and tracks that would fit my Festool track clamps (as well as others I owned).  Since my top extended over the edges of tubes, I just attached a bracket to the edge so I could use my guide rail hinge.  I now attach a length of 1010 series t-slot extrusion, so I have a full length t-track on both sides and it also serves to keep the top flat when storing.  Super quick to set up/take down and it all stores flat on the wall.

Very nice, I bought a set of 90's!  Now do I get rid of my Dewalt Toughbuilt for Portamate's or are these not much different besides the name?
 
Glen has done some really nice things with TrackTubes. Of course he had a head start over all of us ;).

If you are going to get some folding sawhorses, I'd look at the Ridgid at Home Depot. I like them better than the Stanley/DeWalt as they have a 2x4 top which can be switched for any width you want. Plus the top can be easily replaced if it gets cut up and you can easily clamp things to it; something you can't do with the plastic folding models. And the release for the leg height adjustments is half as much effort as the DeWalt.
Enjoy your TrackTubes!
 
Bugsysiegals said:
Very nice, I bought a set of 90's!  Now do I get rid of my Dewalt Toughbuilt for Portamate's or are these not much different besides the name?

Any sawhorses will do .. I personally use both the folding DeWalt and BORA Speedhorse.  I like the Speedhorse because they are 42" wide ... similar to the ToughBuilt I think?  I added a T-track to the top which makes them much more versatile and I can use the tubes and some brackets to position the tubes the distance apart I need them.  See the photos.
 

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Grev said:
Bugsysiegals said:
Very nice, I bought a set of 90's!  Now do I get rid of my Dewalt Toughbuilt for Portamate's or are these not much different besides the name?

Any sawhorses will do .. I personally use both the folding DeWalt and BORA Speedhorse.  I like the Speedhorse because they are 42" wide ... similar to the ToughBuilt I think?  I added a T-track to the top which makes them much more versatile and I can use the tubes and some brackets to position the tubes the distance apart I need them.  See the photos.

That's quite the setup, thanks for paving the way for me!!
 
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