Traded out RO 125 for ETS 150/3

[Wood Hog]

After a week of trying to get the RO 125 not to scratched some walnut door panels, I finally gave up on it, I was in the non agressive mode, vacuum turned down low not applying much pressure, holding the sander carefully, but it still wanted to spint across the wood. To be fair if you want to cut down wood very quickly then this is the tool for you, but as my local store told me before I bought it " it's the best of both worlds, an aggressive and a finish sander in one." Oh well maybe it worked for him.
I realized I'd brought the wrong product for my purpose, every thing I do comes out of the planer its already pretty smooth, and I use a shaper for all my cabinet door rail and style joints I don't have to sand too much. So after lots reviewing on you tube and other websites, and not being able to wait for the ETS EC 150/3 to hit the North America market, I decided to exchange for the ETS 150, Wow! what a difference, it's as smooth as silk when you turn it on, no wandering across the work surface, I realize its not as powerful as the RO 125 so I bought some 60 grit paper too, I figured if I need a more aggressive approach I'll use that.  And if that's still not enough I'll treat myself to the RO 90 or 150 which I hear have much better reviews. Anyway for now I couldn't be happier I did the exchange. Any one have a similar experience to me?
( By the way the new Granat paper lasts forever, it quickly pays for itself.)

 

[Iceclimber]

I recently reluctantly purchased a RO90 after being told by many about that it tends to hop all over work surfaces and just generally being a pain in the butt to handle.

I will agree it takes a certain amount of finesse to keep the sander pad flat to the work surface with the 90 but after minimal time getting used to it i find it is pretty darn easy. Sure the sander always kind of wants to hop but its rather easy to make sure it does not.

I do have many years of sanding experience to pull from and that could have something to do with why i can make it work for me. I guess if i had never experienced a sander hop and was new to sanders and had just purchased a $500 machine i might not be so keen?

From what I'm told the 150 sits right down all on its own. I. Taking a bit of a Festool break to buy some big machines but a 150 is probably in my near future.

Enjoy that 150 if i had a money tree i would own one already...

 

[chappardababbar]

Hi thank you for this post...I'm in the process of trying to establish which sander I need and this is very helpful.

I something to help sand down painted walls between coats....and to help fix holes in drywall etc

I also need something to strip down painted timber doors and windows down for renovation

Based on your post, I'm now thinking an RO90 (smaller head for nooks and crannies) combined with an ETS EC 150/3 for the finer stuff.

 

[Stephen B]

[size=14pt]

Although I have an RO150, I still often use my plus ten year old ETS150/3 in higher grits and between varnish coats.

Recently changed it to the newer pad type; now smoother than ever, but had to turn the vacuum down even further due to increased number of dust holes.

The RO150 and the ETS150/3 make a great team.

I use a DX93 for the nooks and crannies and some trim. It is great, and I have had it almost as long as the ETS. However based on my experience with the RO150, if I had my time again I would probably purchase the RO90 due to its greater versatility.

 

[Wood Hog]

Hi thank you for this post...I'm in the process of trying to establish which sander I need and this is very helpful.

I something to help sand down painted walls between coats....and to help fix holes in drywall etc

I also need something to strip down painted timber doors and windows down for renovation

Based on your post, I'm now thinking an RO90 (smaller head for nooks and crannies) combined with an ETS EC 150/3 for the finer stuff.

I'm not sure I've owned or used Festools long enough to help you decide, it's your hard earned money so buy it, test it and if it doesn't work exchange it or go some other route. I'm going from my experience so far the RO 125 didn't work for me, but for what your suggesting it might be good for you, although I just build cabinets and furniture, I think once you get it use the crap of it in the first 30 days to figure if it's the right one for.

 

[w802h]

Well, my favorite sander is my RTS 400.  I bought an RO150 to cover more ground, but had a lot of the same issues the OP mentions, so I bought a 150/3 that is getting more use than the other 2 now.  On the coarser end, I also will bump down a grit to start my progression, but most stuff is starting at higher grits coming off the planer. 

 

[wow]

While I always used 5" RO sanders before discovering Festool, I now own what I call the 'Festool Trifecta' - RO90, RO150, and ETS 150/3.

When I examined the Festool offerings I found that there was too little difference in surface area from 90mm to 125mm, or from 125mm to 150mm, to have the 125mm offerings make sense for me. The jump from 90mmm to 150mm was meaningful and significant. I also just 'liked' the idea of the ETS 150/3 for finish sanding, but MANY people happily finish sand with the RO 150 - even in Rotex mode! Perhaps my fascination with the ETS150/3 is because I'm used to palm style random orbit sanders, but for some applications I also like the smoother motion and lower weight when compared to the RO150.

The ETS EC 150/3 isn't available on this side of the pond, but the EU prices indicate that it is a LOT more money than the ETS-150/3. It may be a MUCH nicer sander, but I certainly wouldn't hesitate to recommend the ETS-150/3 if you have limited resources for this purchase.

 

[Sjur]

Just a question - I know it's said that the rotex 150 has 44% more surface area to sand with in comparison to the 125 model. But does that take into account the extra holes that the 150 model has?

 

[sylthecru]

You should of followed Eric break in procedure.



I have 3 hours left beforethe break in is completed on my RO125.

 

[Wood Hog]

Yes I saw that  video before I returned it, no disrespect to the guy that did the video, but I felt It was a little ridiculous to leave you sander running for 16 hours In order to use it , there doesn't seem to be this issue with any other sander festool makes. As I was in the 30 day return window it was easier to swap it out, I still love my ETS 150/3 at some later point if I need the horse power I might revisit the RO 150 or the RO90 I haven't heard of any extream or negative reviews on those. Again in not saying the RO 125 is a defective tool just not my cup of tea.
Cheers
Wood Hog

 

[wow]

Just a question - I know it's said that the rotex 150 has 44% more surface area to sand with in comparison to the 125 model. But does that take into account the extra holes that the 150 model has?

I haven't done the math, but I don't believe it would even be worth the calculation. The larger 150 pad adds some holes, yes, but I suspect the 'hole area' is close to being in proportion to the holes in the smaller 125 pad.

Sjur, your question is certainly legitimate from a 'numbers on paper' standpoint. But seeing that so many people have commented on how hard it is to wear out a piece of granat abrasive, I just can't imagine that it would matter in the real world?

If you think I missed something - or am just plain wrong - feel free to let me know...

 

[VW mick]

You should of followed Eric break in procedure.



I have 3 hours left beforethe break in is completed on my RO125.

Has any one actually done this and if so .is it worth it ?

 

[Stephen B]

You should of followed Eric break in procedure.



I have 3 hours left beforethe break in is completed on my RO125.

Has any one actually done this and if so .is it worth it ?

[eek] [eek] [eek] [eek] [eek] [huh] [huh] [eek] [eek] [eek] [eek] [eek] [eek]!!!!

 

[Pixel]

You should of followed Eric break in procedure.



I have 3 hours left beforethe break in is completed on my RO125.

Has any one actually done this and if so .is it worth it ?

A blind man on a galloping horse can see this man is taking the piss, how he manages to keep a straight face when talking to the camera defies me, unless of course his daily job is an actor.
10 out of 10 for him though as it appears a lot of gullible people have followed his advice but be assured the technique is bollocks.

 

[junk731]

The 10 hour breakin period is actually for the operator of the RO 125 sander not the actual sander. If you have never used this sander, that's what it takes to learn proper control. Got rid of mine and bought the RO 150 at the advice of a Festool rep from headquarters, it needed zero breakin, go figure.

John

 

[Wood Junkie]

Well, my favorite sander is my RTS 400.  I bought an RO150 to cover more ground, but had a lot of the same issues the OP mentions, so I bought a 150/3 that is getting more use than the other 2 now.  On the coarser end, I also will bump down a grit to start my progression, but most stuff is starting at higher grits coming off the planer. 

Just a question - I know it's said that the rotex 150 has 44% more surface area to sand with in comparison to the 125 model. But does that take into account the extra holes that the 150 model has?

I haven't done the math, but I don't believe it would even be worth the calculation. The larger 150 pad adds some holes, yes, but I suspect the 'hole area' is close to being in proportion to the holes in the smaller 125 pad.

Sjur, your question is certainly legitimate from a 'numbers on paper' standpoint. But seeing that so many people have commented on how hard it is to wear out a piece of granat abrasive, I just can't imagine that it would matter in the real world?

If you think I missed something - or am just plain wrong - feel free to let me know...

 

[Wood Junkie]

Hi thank you for this post...I'm in the process of trying to establish which sander I need and this is very helpful.

I something to help sand down painted walls between coats....and to help fix holes in drywall etc

I also need something to strip down painted timber doors and windows down for renovation

Based on your post, I'm now thinking an RO90 (smaller head for nooks and crannies) combined with an ETS EC 150/3 for the finer stuff.

I'm not sure I've owned or used Festools long enough to help you decide, it's your hard earned money so buy it, test it and if it doesn't work exchange it or go some other route. I'm going from my experience so far the RO 125 didn't work for me, but for what your suggesting it might be good for you, although I just build cabinets and furniture, I think once you get it use the crap of it in the first 30 days to figure if it's the right one for.

 

[tino_ale]

One thing I've noticed on my Rotex 150, that may or may not apply to the RO90, is that the pad can be improperly fit to the machine. I mean it is still fitted "normaly" but for some reason not completely coplanar with the orbital motion and perpendicular to the axis of the drive. When that happens the machine wobbles a little as the pad rotates and wanders around.

In that case I just remove and remount the pad and it's back to normal. Much easier to control then.