Trimming solid wood edge banding: MFK-700, or OF-1010/1400 w/Edging Plate?

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Dec 30, 2007
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Ok gang!

I've got some projects coming up that involve edge banding some plywood. My preference is to edge band plywood with solid wood, often ~1"ish, enough to allow me to Domino the edge banding on. Until now I've been running the wood material through a thickness planer to get it close to the appropriate size, Domino, glue and clamp it to the plywood, then sand the excess edge banding til it's flush with the plywood panel.

Time consuming, tedious, and very susceptible to operator error.

I'd LOVE to get the Lamello Cantex, but at $1,700 that's a bit rich for my blood at this point in my career. Hopefully someday I can generate enough work to justify it, but not quite yet.... http://www.csaw.com/lamello/cantex.html

So, in lieu of the Cantex, I'd love to use a Festool router to perform this trimming task. I currently own a OF-1400, and am under the understanding that it is compatible with the Angle Arm and Edging Plate. Is there any dust collection in this configuration? Or are the chips just flying everywhere?

If I buy another router, am I better off with the MFK-700 or OF-1010 w/Edging Plate? In addition to flush trimming solid wood edge banding, I'd also use the router for small round overs and other small edge treatments on boards. Does the MFK-700 have enough "OOMPH" to trim, say, 1"x1/16" Maple? Alternatively, given I am only looking at trimming edge banding and light edge treatments, would the OF-1010 be a bit overkill?

One other piece of information, I am planning on picking up the LR32 components this month. I understand that I can use either my current OF-1400 for this, or get the OF-1010.

Looks like whether I get the MFK-700, if I get the OF-1010 and add the flush trimming attachments, it adds up to around $550ish either route.

Sooo.... please help me! Will the OF-1400 do this? If I should get a second router as a complement to my 1400, am I getter off with the 1010 or the 700? Thanks gang, I look forward to reading your responses!
 
Tom,

A stock 700 will not reach 1". For thicker banding I use the 1010 with the edge plate, you'll get great results. The plate will fit the 1400, it's just a little heavy.

Tom
 
Ditto this. I just did some doors and drawer faces using 7/8" cvg fir. Used the 1019 with the edging plate and it worked fantastic.
 
I would love to own an MFK-700 as well but I'm not rich either, so I use a Porter Cable 7310 laminate trimmer. I have one that Ive had for years, and I bought another last week on the Menards sale for $39. Of course after joining here I suppose I will at least have to put mine in a Systainer...

 
The edging plate and adjuster will fit the OF1400, but the chip deflector will not, so bits go everywhere.  Also the OF1400 is a lump to hold horizontal.

But the OF1010 is a delight in this application and just so easy to use.

I've not used a dedicated edge trimmer, but unless you do a lot of edging I'd go OF1010.

Andrew
 
Hi Tom

I am not sure if this will help you make up your mind on the router purchase but I hope it is informative...

I have used two different methods of edging veneered MDF with solid wood and each is illustrated in the videos below. The essential difference is that I use my newer one from Axminster in the first video and a CMT one in the second. These cutters can be found almost everywhere being sold under different makers' names.

This is the more recent video - take it from a bout 30 seconds in:



Here is the older one:



Peter

[just did an edit to correct my direction on which cutter is in which video]
 
Peter, I really enjoyed these videos. Some nice innovations. I wouldn't use your method of edge banding for plywood, but for MDF and hardwood it is excellent. I liked your idea of using the router table for trimming the edge banding. If I was using my Festool CMS, I would have to build a fence jig...but, this would be less expensive than buying a new trim router.
Speaking of trim routers...I attended a Festool cabinet making workshop where the demonstrator only used the MFK700 for the build. What a great machine! If I were in the business of making cabinets, ( I do have to make a kitchen island and a cabinet for my next builds, though.) I would pick up the MFK700 and the LR32 pin-making system.  That router certainly made an easy go of it.
 
Thanks Jim.

I must look carefully at the MFK700 as I do a lot of the other type of cabinet work. I am currently doing a pedestal desk in walnut and some of the router work needs a quite delicate touch.

Peter
 
Thanks for the responses, great input fellas!!

If I offset the Dominos so they're as shallow as possible in the solid edge banding, and the rest of the Domino is in the plywood, what would be the thinnest edge banding I could get away with, assuming a 1/8" round over edge treatment? Would that allow the use of the MFK 700, or am I simply better off with the 1010 for now?

Thanks again guys!  [smile]
 
Tom Gensmer said:
Thanks for the responses, great input fellas!!

If I offset the Dominos so they're as shallow as possible in the solid edge banding, and the rest of the Domino is in the plywood, what would be the thinnest edge banding I could get away with, assuming a 1/8" round over edge treatment? Would that allow the use of the MFK 700, or am I simply better off with the 1010 for now?

Thanks again guys!  [smile]

Tom - Paul-Marcel shows how to modify the base for the MFK to allow for longer bits.  I opted for  a 1010 and it is a nice router -- perfect with the edging plate (although not as easy to set-up as an MFK).  It has a hood to keep chips from flying all over so DC is good.  I do not find it heavy and it works perfectly with the LR32 system as well.  It would probably complement your 1400 well.  I have the 2200 and I find it is a perfect second router for use with this machine. 
 
Tom I do a lot of solid edgebanding on the flat panel doors I typical make for cabinets. The edging usually varies between the typical thin bandings upto 5/8" on 3/4" panels. I use the 1.5 degree shoe on the MFK700. When setup properly it is very difficult to make a mistake. I also have the OF1010 and accessories to trim with unit if need be, it doesn't have the ease of the MFK700. The MFK700 is just left setup for edgebanding and is my go to unit. I don't use dominos in the edge just glue, clamp and trim. I have seen a Virutex Edge Trimmer that's also very nice but currently don't have a need for a unit with its capacity or price.

John
 
Hi Tom,

We initially used the 1010 with the eding plate setup. It was a huge improvement on our old method of a small laminate trimmer and a bearing guided bit. It allows accuracy, repeatability and consistiency, not to mention excellent dust extraction.

With the increased amount of cabinet and panel work that we started doing we opted for a Lamello Lamina for trimming laminate (an expensive, one trick pony but gives flawless results) and an MFK700.

In your case I'd highly recommend the 1010 and edge set, it will compliment the LR32 system and trim your solid edgings without missing a beat.

;D
 
If you chose to use a set of edge-banding bits like these Amana bits, you could keep the visible edge down to 1/2" or so and use the MFK 700 to clean them down as necessary.  Keep in mind that the largest bit you can use in the MFK 700 has a cutting length of 5/8". 

 
The MFK 700 is my favorite Festool router.

No bearing spinning at 25,000 RPM to mar the show surface or lock up is a blessing. It took us about an hour to trim 2500+ feet of 0.020 edge banding on mahogany ply with the 700.

Climb cutting solves the chips all over problem.

Tom
 
Tom Gensmer said:
Ok gang!

I've got some projects coming up that involve edge banding some plywood. My preference is to edge band plywood with solid wood, often ~1"ish, enough to allow me to Domino the edge banding on. Until now I've been running the wood material through a thickness planer to get it close to the appropriate size, Domino, glue and clamp it to the plywood, then sand the excess edge banding til it's flush with the plywood panel.

Time consuming, tedious, and very susceptible to operator error.

I'd LOVE to get the Lamello Cantex, but at $1,700 that's a bit rich for my blood at this point in my career. Hopefully someday I can generate enough work to justify it, but not quite yet.... http://www.csaw.com/lamello/cantex.html

So, in lieu of the Cantex, I'd love to use a Festool router to perform this trimming task. I currently own a OF-1400, and am under the understanding that it is compatible with the Angle Arm and Edging Plate. Is there any dust collection in this configuration? Or are the chips just flying everywhere?

If I buy another router, am I better off with the MFK-700 or OF-1010 w/Edging Plate? In addition to flush trimming solid wood edge banding, I'd also use the router for small round overs and other small edge treatments on boards. Does the MFK-700 have enough "OOMPH" to trim, say, 1"x1/16" Maple? Alternatively, given I am only looking at trimming edge banding and light edge treatments, would the OF-1010 be a bit overkill?

One other piece of information, I am planning on picking up the LR32 components this month. I understand that I can use either my current OF-1400 for this, or get the OF-1010.

Looks like whether I get the MFK-700, if I get the OF-1010 and add the flush trimming attachments, it adds up to around $550ish either route.

Sooo.... please help me! Will the OF-1400 do this? If I should get a second router as a complement to my 1400, am I getter off with the 1010 or the 700? Thanks gang, I look forward to reading your responses!

I have the MFK700 and love it. At least I love it now, but not originally. You are limited to the thickness of the edge banding. I had some applications where the edge was close to one inch and it would not do it. Then I discovered Paul Marcel's modification!

http://www.halfinchshy.com/2010/12/extending-capacity-of-mfk-700.html

That made all the difference for me. I think that Festool should pay him for his idea when they come out with version 2. :-)

Cheers,
 
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