Trion jigsaw blade deflection

[James Watriss]

Grr...

So, I'm notching out parts for a cabinet/ bookcase unit. Ripped lengthwise on table saw, fine.

I run in the cross cut with Trion, running against a straight edge. Brand new blade, brand new insert.

First two cuts are fine. Third one veers a but, but fixable.

Fourth cut (9" cut) starts out square and finishes with the blade at almost 30 degrees to the bottom of the saw, scorching the cut. It's to the waste side, so it's fixable, but... What gives?

Any thoughts?

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

James, are you setting the guides? And, what blade are you using and does it look bent?

 

[James Watriss]

Guides were set to the best of my limited understanding, but I'm wondering about my level of understanding.

Brand new S 75/ 2,5. Straight when I started, mangled now.

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

Follow along with the video I posted for setting the guides properly. If they're set too tight, they will pinch the blade causing it to heat up and bend.

 

[ajones]

Grr...

So, I'm notching out parts for a cabinet/ bookcase unit. Ripped lengthwise on table saw, fine.

I run in the cross cut with Trion, running against a straight edge. Brand new blade, brand new insert.

First two cuts are fine. Third one veers a but, but fixable.

Fourth cut (9" cut) starts out square and finishes with the blade at almost 30 degrees to the bottom of the saw, scorching the cut. It's to the waste side, so it's fixable, but... What gives?

Any thoughts?

You are using the wrong tool

 

[James Watriss]

Talked to Shane, looked up more info on adjusting the guides. Feeling like a rookie.

Humble pie is good lunch food.

 

[woodguy7]

You need a Carvex 400.  Wana buy one  [blink] [bite tongue]

 

[James Watriss]

Don't tease. I know you can see that I'm in NA...

 

[Davej]

James, Woodguys Carvex is cr*p whereas mine works as it should and its 110v , you can have it for 10k and i will post it for free  [smile]  [big grin] [tongue]  [big grin]

 

[galwaydude18@gmail.com]

I think you meant £10 there Davej  [big grin]

 

[woodguy7]

LOL, can have mine for £5.00

 

[Davej]

Its NAINA at present so thats worth a few zeros before the decimal point  [big grin]  but seriously my carvex is as it should be but i have only used it with the fsg and metal blades and even though i have other blades i wont use them because i dont think they are rigid enough ( but thats between you and me  [smile] )

 

[galwaydude18@gmail.com]

I have set my trion the way it's done in the video and I have a huge problem with blades constantly snapping where the carbide tips are. I never had that problem before. Anyone any thoughts on what's causing that to happen. They are not festool blades in using.

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

I have set my trion the way it's done in the video and I have a huge problem with blades constantly snapping where the carbide tips are. I never had that problem before. Anyone any thoughts on what's causing that to happen. They are not festool blades in using.

If you're snapping the blade, does it get discolored a lot, even black? If so, you have the guides too tight. This will cause the blade to heat up and make it bend or brittle. Otherwise, you may be using a blade that's just too thin. What blades are you using (a web link to them would be good) and what is the application?

 

[galwaydude18@gmail.com]

I'm not sure of the brand right now. I'll have to check. They don't get black but seem to leave a groove in the side of the blade but even if I loosen it more it doesn't help unless I loosen it a lot. I would only be cutting mdf or chipboard when I'm fitting shops, kitchens etc.

 

[nehardwoodfloors]

How about the Bosch JS540- from the box to the wood, ZERO adjustments  :-X
Best jig on the market, hands down.

 

[justahobby]

@James
Is the blade exhibiting any sort of physical deformation other than the bending?  I'm trying to figure out my blade deformation issue.

[attachimg=1]

I'm not sure of the brand right now. I'll have to check. They don't get black but seem to leave a groove in the side of the blade but even if I loosen it more it doesn't help unless I loosen it a lot. I would only be cutting mdf or chipboard when I'm fitting shops, kitchens etc.

@galwaydude18
Just out of curiosity, are your carbide blade guides parallel, or is the guide on the scraped side at a slight (visible) angle when looking at the unit head on?  For example, in my setup the right guide is toe-in at the bottom, a la: ||/ .  I've just noticed my (new) unit starting to do this and am puzzled.

[attachimg=2]

I'm pretty sure the above discoloration rings and black area are to what Shane is referring in an over-heated blade. :-(

 

[justahobby]

Okaaaay... smaller pictures next post!

 

[Nigel]

Looks like your carbide guides are too tight. When the saw is in pendulum the blade mode you should be able to move the blade forwards without it binding on the guides.

Or perhaps the guides are not central?

 

[tbellemare]

I keep seeing the technique, whereby the guides are tightened and loosened while one's finger pushes the blade forward.

Though this can work, it requires some user finesse.

It seems to me that it is more fool-proof to push the blade forward, trap it forward by tightening the blade guides, and then loosen the blade guides until the blade just falls back into position.

Of course, in the immediately above referenced technique, the saw is put on the maximum pendulum setting and the blade is fully extended.

Employing this technique means that the blade guide adjustment is happening without any touch to the blade while making the fine tuning. It eliminates user error related to blade deflection or pressure.

I learned this method from Steve Bace, the Festool Training Guru in Henderson, Nevada. Steve is obviously among the Best!

Tom