Trying to figure out how to safely route this out?

[festal]

Happy new year.  So I need to route a t track slot in my crosscut sled and I can’t seem to figure out how to do it safely and stable . Here is a picture of what I’m trying to do. I got 1400 and edge guide

Width is 1.6” . Tried to use boards in the back and front and it’s still wobbly

Any ideas?

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[Sparktrician]

You have a table saw.  Just do a dado.  Multiple passes until you get the fit right for the T-track. 

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Definitely do not try to route that as a single thickness. I would clamp a secondary piece to that edge to increase the surface area. If that blade block (plywood) is removable, it would be better to do that. This would keep your edge guide closer to where you want the track inlayed, rather than referencing from the opposite side and across the block you clamped on. Then but the blade guard block back on, if removed.

 

[ChuckM]

As Crazyraceguy suggested, add a piece to increase the support surface for the router. The recommended feeding direction is shown below in the first image -- "F" stands for fence (second, if block can be removed).

Alternatively, use a smaller router (trim router with fence), and make multiple passes to create the channel to depth. Feeding direction is the same regardless of the size of the router.

 

[waho6o9]

Practice on scraps using 2 edge guides.  View attachment 1

Photo from public domain. ^

View attachment 2

I drilled 2 holes in a side of wood and used vice grips to use as a second edge guide.  Sorry about the grainy picture. 

 

[ChuckM]

The two-edge guide approach will work if the OP a) has two guides, and b) the block can be removed.

 

[squall_line]

My answers would be:

Table saw (already suggested)
Twin edge guides
Festool OF-FH 2200 acrylic/plexiglass Routing Aid (which, despite the name, works on the 1010, 1400, and 2200)

I don't know why the Routing Aid gets such a bad rap other than the price for what it's made of...  If a person has a 1010, 1400, and 2200, the Routing Aid is cheaper than buying a second Edge Guide for all three of them.  If you only have one of the routers, a second edge guide is cheaper but possibly not quite as stable.

 

[guybo]

Hi, we use this a lot w/mft works good. guy

 

[festal]

Thank you for suggestions. I do have a second guide but block is glued on and not removable

I can do it on the table saw but will have to flip the crosscut sled upside down and not sure if it’s a good idea do do on the table saw

Need to go through my scrap pile maybe I can build it up enough to get it above the guide block and then use 2 edge guides

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[festal]

Hi, we use this a lot w/mft works good. guy

What am I looking at? Not sure

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[cpw]

It looks like that fence is a 2x4.  I would just stack another 2x4 next to it and clamp (or it's a shop fixture, temporarily screw it) together.  I expect that I would be comfortable with the 3"  of bearing surface for the router at that point.

 

[guybo]

Hi, stock clamped flush to the top of  mft,and the mft used as support for the router.

 

[festal]

Hi, stock clamped flush to the top of  mft,and the mft used as support for the router.

Ah ok.

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[Svar]

You have a table saw.  Just do a dado.  Multiple passes until you get the fit right for the T-track.

I can do it on the table saw but will have to flip the crosscut sled upside down and not sure if it’s a good idea do do on the table saw

Table saw will be the safest and easiest. Upside down, saw fence goes inside of the sled, far end supported by an equal height block.
As an alternative, same thing but on a router table.

 

[festal]

You have a table saw.  Just do a dado.  Multiple passes until you get the fit right for the T-track.

I can do it on the table saw but will have to flip the crosscut sled upside down and not sure if it’s a good idea do do on the table saw

Table saw will be the safest and easiest. Upside down, saw fence goes inside of the sled, far end supported by an equal height block.
As an alternative, same thing but on a router table.

I think thats what i will attempt.  Didn't think of putting saw fence inside the sled.  Need to check if it has enough clearance to clear the table saw fence

 

[rvieceli]

I think that's what i will attempt.  Didn't think of putting saw fence inside the sled.  Need to check if it has enough clearance to clear the table saw fence


[member=71889]festal[/member] the fence on the sled does not have to be taller than the fence on the table saw. If the sled fence is shorter then have the base of the sled ride along the top of the saw fence. To keep the sled level rip a block the same height as the saw fence and use that block on the opposite side of the the sled. carpet tape it of use hot glue to keep it secure.

ron

 

[tjbnwi]

Clamp/screw the piece to the side of the table/MFT it is on,clamp guide rail to table/MFT in the proper location, route away.

The flat of the sled can either go under the table or pad out the ends of the sled an equal distance the center block is.

Tom.

 

[festal]

Clamp/screw the piece to the side of the table/MFT it is on,clamp guide rail to table/MFT in the proper location, route away.

The flat of the sled can either go under the table or pad out the ends of the sled an equal distance the center block is.

Tom.

don't have side extrusions on my mft so can't really clamp it

 

[festal]

Clamp/screw the piece to the side of the table/MFT it is on,clamp guide rail to table/MFT in the proper location, route away.

The flat of the sled can either go under the table or pad out the ends of the sled an equal distance the center block is.

Tom.

It fits

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[festal]

Thank you everyone. Table saw, dado and fence made it very easy

Very clean

Perfect fit

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