TS 55 & Accessories to replace Table Saw and Chop Saw for HomeShop

[Van G]

Realize this has been asked in various forms before, but can I sacrifice my table saw (Ridgid TS 3650) and get my work done with the TS 55 and accessories (parallel guide or MFT/3)? Can I get rid of my chop saw?

I'm a home user with single car garage shop that is limited in space. I currently make it work but would love to open up space and be portable as well.

I've got a number of built-ins and cabinet projects for our house, and we plan to purchase renovate a second home in the next year.

I currently struggle with sheet goods: I can manage to rip down the sheets but getting things square is a real challenge. Cross cuts and tear out are another PITA with table saw.

I own a DF 500 and love the quality and function of the tool.

My thoughts on purchases in addition to the TS 55 are the CT 36E and RO 90 or 125 (Package).

Current tools: TS 3650, DW718, DW 735, RF1101Kit, X5 6" Jointer, Kreg PS Jig, Jess EM Router Table... Beer Fridge & Radio

Not a production shop but I like to get things done right.

Advice & Experience is appreciated.

 

[Jeff Zanin]

For sheet goods the TS55 + MFT + parallel guides will do most of what a small table saw and chop saw will do.

But in my experience (shelves, simple cabinetry, boxes) the work goes much more q

 

[Kev]

I'd miss my SCMS (KAPEX) ... I'd say no to being without a "chop saw" as you call it.

Home renovation, particularly if you're going to replace detail woodwork, is where an SCMS is king ... then there's decking, etc.

The TS, tracks and guides are great for sheet goods. A table saw is no good for sheet goods - you need a good quality panel saw in that respect.

I currently miss having a table saw - but I can survive without one. That said, I will have one soon. I like a table saw for ripping.

 

[panelchat]

I just sorted out this question for myself over a few week's worth of making casework last year, in small spaces, with only the festool system- here's what I think, maybe of some use to you:

My conclusion is TS + vac + 118" rail + parallel guides of one kind or another + MFT works well for reliable straight/square cuts for making square cases.
You can use a shorter rail or joined rails if needed but the long one is great for doing lots of 4x8 sheet breakdown.
My MFT needed a little tinkering to get to really good 90 deg cuts.
Its slower than a table saw for me, esp ripping narrow stock or trimming down a panel by 1/16" or similar odd little cuts.
However its much more efficient/versatile space wise, far safer, better cut quality, especially for crosscutting cutting veneer panel, is quieter, has better dust collection than I've ever had with a table saw, and less back breaking lifting of 4x8 sheets to feed a talbe/panel saw.
Saw/panel sizing time for me was always like 10% of my shop time for cabinet making. FAR more time is spent designing/managing, sanding, finishing, assembling, installing, etc.
So if I add say, 25% to my cutting time, the addition in time to the overall job is like 3-5%, so it shakes out pretty well when weighed against the advantages of the track saw over table saw. But if I plan/nest my cuts very thoroughly on CAD first, it takes little if any additional time on the saw.

I don't use much solid wood these days so can't help on that front- I'm really just using the saw as a panel saw.

My old table saw is missed sometimes, but the danger and other issues are not- the number of people I encounter with nine fingers left keeps growing over the years... [tongue]

 

[Van G]

Kev - agreed - compound miter but I really like chopping - forgot about trim needs...

So if the the TS 55EQ is currently 15% off since its EOL, should I jump on that or spend the extra 20% and buy current model? rip and cross cut on table saw until I decide on MFT/w vs. parrallel guide.

Green light the CT 26E or 36E & RO 125 bundle + TS 55 + extended track

Wait and see on MFT/3 or parrallel guide.

 

[Corwin]

You should consider MFT and parallel guides. 

The extractors can be packaged with any tool, but the MFT is only packaged with a TS saw.  So, make use of both type package deals.

 

[Van G]

Would the parallel guides be needed if I decide to go with the MFT/3?

 

[Van G]

From what I've read here, the 55 REQ is worth the extra expense.

 

[Corwin]

Would the parallel guides be needed if I decide to go with the MFT/3?

This will depend on what size material you will be working with.  If you will be working with sheet goods, you would want to make a simple cutting table -- as simple as throwing some 2x on a pair of saw horses -- and make your parallel cuts using the parallel guides.  You would then cut the resulting pieces to length on the MFT.

If, however, you are only going to be working with smaller pieces, then you can do shorter cuts -- both rips and crosscuts -- on the MFT.  You can also join two MFTs to enlarge those capabilities.

 

[ccarrolladams]

Would the parallel guides be needed if I decide to go with the MFT/3?

Van, the MFT/3 set is very effective at cross-cutting less than 26". In Festool End User Classes we used 2 MFT/3 Basic to support sheet goods we were ripping using the Parallel Guides w/ Extension and a 3000mm rail. Frankly a pair of saw horses works just as well to support sheet goods to be broken down with the parallel guides and for less money.

I already owned 8 TS55EQ before the TS55REQ was announced. I pre-ordered 2 of them, and one has arrived. For what I do with the TS55 none of the up-grades on the TS55R are vital to me, but I suspect as we gain experience we will find many uses for the refinements. I have made offers on a few very good condition TS55EQ so over the next few weeks some of those should arrive. My plan is to donate my older TS55EQ all of which are in excellent working condition, but show some wear from use. Of course I will never part with my original TS55EQ which we use as the standard when adjusting toe-in on all of my other track saws.

 

[sancho57]

Realize this has been asked in various forms before, but can I sacrifice my table saw (Ridgid TS 3650) and get my work done with the TS 55 and accessories (parallel guide or MFT/3)? Can I get rid of my chop saw?

I'm a home user with single car garage shop that is limited in space. I currently make it work but would love to open up space and be portable as well.

I've got a number of built-ins and cabinet projects for our house, and we plan to purchase renovate a second home in the next year.

I currently struggle with sheet goods: I can manage to rip down the sheets but getting things square is a real challenge. Cross cuts and tear out are another PITA with table saw.

I own a DF 500 and love the quality and function of the tool.

My thoughts on purchases in addition to the TS 55 are the CT 36E and RO 90 or 125 (Package).

Current tools: TS 3650, DW718, DW 735, RF1101Kit, X5 6" Jointer, Kreg PS Jig, Jess EM Router Table... Beer Fridge & Radio

Not a production shop but I like to get things done right.

Advice & Experience is appreciated.

I just got rid of all my stationary tools unless you call my Kapex stationary. I havent used my table saw but 3 times in 2 years. With a few spacers for the MFT w the TS 55 Im good

 

[thebicyclecafe]

I say no to replacing the miter saw and possibly for replacing the table saw. As versatile as the tracksaws are, they just can't cut miter, or compound cut angles, or bevel as accurately as even an inexpensive miter saw. If your renovations include any trim work, I wouldn't want to be without one.
If space is an issue, set it up on a stand an put it outside... helps you avoid the dust collection issue.

As far as cutting large panels, the tracksaw will be far safer and easier to work at breaking down full sized sheet goods, as well as squaring up the broken down pieces. With an MFT, your accuracy and productivity will be quadrupled when it comes to squaring, whether you're using the MFT/3 accessories or qwas dogs+ rail dogs.

Uses where I still always go to the table saw:
1) cutting the panels to finished size (parallel cutting the panels to the previously squared two edges). Unless it's a large panel, for common cabinet parts, they're really easy to handle at that point, and the table saw is still faster and more repeatable to set up. One exception- with careful use of the flag stop on the MFT/3 you can get relatively fast and repeatable as well.

2) Narrow or long rips. Yes, I know it can be done if you have the proper jig, but it's just too easy to do with a table saw. Set the fence, rip, repeat.
Not only is it a workaround to support a guide rail on top of a narrow board, it's difficult, and also in my opinion less accurate to have your good piece to the right of the track (since you have to account/estimate for the width of the kerf). 

3) Dados, cutting tenons, non through cuts... this is self explanatory.

 

[jacko9]

This topic keeps repeating itself and the same answers always surface to the top, that is a track saw is great for breaking down sheet goods and with some work cutting them to finished size.

A table saw and a miter saw are great for quickly cutting angle cuts and ripping, etc.

If you want to limit yourself to a track saw and use work around jigs and fixtures, go for it but you will never be as efficient as having the full combination of the table saw and miter saw IMHO.

Jack

 

[Kev]

This topic keeps repeating itself and the same answers always surface to the top, that is a track saw is great for breaking down sheet goods and with some work cutting them to finished size.

A table saw and a miter saw are great for quickly cutting angle cuts and ripping, etc.

If you want to limit yourself to a track saw and use work around jigs and fixtures, go for it but you will never be as efficient as having the full combination of the table saw and miter saw IMHO.

Jack

Yeh - the bandsaw tangent normally creeps in about now [wink]

 

[jacko9]

This topic keeps repeating itself and the same answers always surface to the top, that is a track saw is great for breaking down sheet goods and with some work cutting them to finished size.

A table saw and a miter saw are great for quickly cutting angle cuts and ripping, etc.

If you want to limit yourself to a track saw and use work around jigs and fixtures, go for it but you will never be as efficient as having the full combination of the table saw and miter saw IMHO.

Jack

Yeh - the bandsaw tangent normally creeps in about now [wink]

Dang, how did I ever forget the bandsaw [wink]

 

[TomGadwa1]

Bandsaws rock! They are great for ripping long thin pieces. Are fantastic for working little bitty project pieces. Also they can be used with care to cut curves on side pieces to fit into existing structures. Try that with a table saw OR a compound mitre saw! Lest we not forget resawing for shims or just to get something to fit together tightly. I love my bandsaw and now wonder how I ever worked before without one.

 

[Van G]

I guess I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. Thank you for the replies and apologies for dredging up this topic to those offended. Felt my situation was unique.

I'll start with the TS, Vac, and Parallel guide. Keep my current tools.

 

[Van G]

Going to be purchasing TS55R - MFT/3 package shortly. Wanted some advice on what accessories are the right choice to start with?

FS 1900/2 & 2 Connectors
Splinter Guards
Parallel Guide
Qwas Dogs (which ones)

I already own 3 quick clamps, 2 screw clamps and pkg of clamping elements.

 

[mouppe]

Others will chime in, but I would recommend getting a longer and a shorter rail rather than 2 x 1900 rails as it will give you three different length options.

 

[Van G]

Is the 1080 on the MFT/3 easily removed and used stand alone or something you want to leave in place?

Wasn't considering 2 1900 rails, just using the code from the catalogue.

Why did I have a 1400 rail as being included in the package?