TS 55 & Accessories to replace Table Saw and Chop Saw for HomeShop

[Kev]

Is the 1080 on the MFT/3 easily removed and used stand alone or something you want to leave in place?

Wasn't considering 2 1900 rails, just using the code from the catalogue.

Why did I have a 1400 rail as being included in the package?

I say "leave it on", no big deal other than you'll be realigning stuff.

I have a 3000, 1400, 1400 holy ... plust the MFT/3's 1080.

I would have liked one of my 1400's to be a 1900, but I'll get a 1900 when I pick up a TS75 soon anyway. To me that's the minimum set. I am thinking of getting one more to pair with the parallel guides (an 800).

You may want to think about a boom arm for your CT36.

Qwas dogs? Hmmm, just get a couple, then a couple more ... I have 4 tall and 4 short.

 

[Van G]

Kev, I'm assuming the connectors are a pain to deal with if you've gone with multiple lengths including 3000?

I was aiming to save a bit by connecting to make up a rail for sheet goods or longer.

Realized I had a 1400 written down as it comes with TS55.

 

[Kev]

Kev, I'm assuming the connectors are a pain to deal with if you've gone with multiple lengths including 3000?

I was aiming to save a bit by connecting to make up a rail for sheet goods or longer.

Realized I had a 1400 written down as it comes with TS55.

2 1400's constantly being aligned is a (small) bother, so I chose to be lazy and get the 3000. My initial thinking was that short rails are easier to store.

The 3000 makes work easy - but it's a potential storage and transit headache ... and obviously it's an additional cost.

If you have 3 rails and you're not constantly braking and joining them it would be quite ok.

 

[Van G]

So 1900, 1400, and 1080 is a good setup? 2 connectors needed to put 2 rails together. 1080 rarely to be removed from MFT.

3000 would need a dedicated spot in my shop but will see how it goes with the above.

 

[Corwin]

Is the 1080 on the MFT/3 easily removed and used stand alone or something you want to leave in place?

...

The MFTs have stops (Festool calles these 'feather keys') within the front and rear aluminum profiles that allow one to remove the guide-rail brackets and later replace them to the prior position.  If you leave your rail attached to the rear hinged bracket, this will work fine.  However, if you remove the rail from that rear bracket, reinstalling it may leave it at a slightly different position -- screws within a t-track have some play.  But this is a relatively minor issue if you wish to remove the rail from the bracket.

You can also use your FS 1400/2 rail on your MFT going the longer direction.  If this is something you might do often, then ordering a second set of feather keys may prove helpful

 

[Jmaichel]

Van,
I think I can speak to this because I went through something very similar, am also just a hobbyist and work in a one car garage. Here is what I have in there:

Table Saw
6" jointer
14" bandsaw
2HP Dust Collector
12 1/2" Planer
MFT/3
TS75
OF1400
ETS 150/3
CT26
3 guide rails (1080, 1400, 1900)

It's tight but I make it work. I am in the middle of a steamer trunk project where I would be lost without my table saw. I had to rip 16 parts all to 2" wide a task that I am sure would be a PITA with just parallel guides. I also cut 1/4" grooves in each of those boards and 3/4" dados in several others using a dado stack. I am glad that I decided to buy a table saw an don't  regret it one bit. I have actually used every tool in my shop on this build, which is very gratifying. Corwin is right if you are going to buy a TS55 you mine as well get the MFT/3 at the same time for the package savings. I recently added an MFT/3 and am very happy with how it increases my capability. In a one car garage it is nice to have another horizantial surface to work on. I also added 4 Qwas dogs and 2 rail dogs which just adds to the capability of the MFT. I did not even install the fence or miter gauge on the MFT I just use the Qwas dogs. Anyway I would wait on chucking the table saw for now especially if you are thinking about going with the TS55. Even with a rip blade installed the TS55 struggles a little in harder hardwoods and 8/4 material.
Good Luck!

James

 

[Van G]

Thanks for the reply James. I've been convinced by the thread to keep all the saws.

If I plan to purchase the TS75 next year when I start working with larger dimensions of lumber (it includes the 1900 rail), should I buy the LR 32 rail (1400 or 2424) knowing that I'll move toward Festool router sooner than later?

I assume the LR 32 rails are no issue to be used with TS's and connectors.

Do any of the router packages include the LR 32 or is there a better way to purchase?

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

I don't think a person can have enough table saws.

I have 3 and two of them carry two blades each and I still want a couple more table saws.

 

[Stone Message]

Hi Van G, I did exactly what you have proposed about 18 months ago. I sold my big table saw and bought the TS55 and MFT3. Several people have said that one still needs a mitre saw and I agree - I bought the Kapex 120 as it is head and shoulders above the rest of the field. My woodwork has improved as a result - my joints are square every time, my sheet goods get cut cleanly and very accurately and, probably the most important, I am enjoying my work so much more.

Go for it!

Peter

 

[skids]

Neither, you need both. You could get a smaller size table saw, but the TS doesn't replace a table saws' functionality and usefulness. Anyone who tells you the TS can replace it is dead wrong.

Keep both, especially the chop saw. Unless all you do is break down sheet goods, then yes sell the table saw, keep the miter saw. TS only provides some overlap with the table saw.

Best features of it, IMO, are sheet good break down, accurate and clean..And being able to take it TO the work your doing. This is where the two directly contrast one another. You will still need a table saw for small pieces.

 

[Van G]

I suppose I should start a new thread as I've decided to keep my table saw and mitre saw but am looking for guidance on what accessories/rails to purchase on my first go.

Down to which rails are they way to go and I think the longer LR 32 is the most bang for my buck given I'll have 1080, 1400, and 1900 when packaged with tools.

If I plan to purchase the TS75 next year when I start working with larger dimensions of lumber (it includes the 1900 rail), should I buy the LR 32 rail (1400 or 2424) knowing that I'll move toward Festool router sooner than later?

I assume the LR 32 rails are no issue to be used with TS's and connectors.

Do any of the router packages include the LR 32 or is there a better way to purchase?

 

[Corwin]

Thanks for the reply James. I've been convinced by the thread to keep all the saws.

If I plan to purchase the TS75 next year when I start working with larger dimensions of lumber (it includes the 1900 rail), should I buy the LR 32 rail (1400 or 2424) knowing that I'll move toward Festool router sooner than later?

I assume the LR 32 rails are no issue to be used with TS's and connectors.

Do any of the router packages include the LR 32 or is there a better way to purchase?

Keep in mind that may dealers will allow you to get a different length guide rail than the one that would normally be included with the purchase of a saw.  Since the FS 1900/2 rail is such a useful length, I would go ahead and get that earlier if you aren't getting the TS75 until later.  If you do that, you can get whatever length rail you want when you later buy the TS75.  Just a thought.

All the /2 guide rails are made from the same extrusion.  So, yes, any of the rails can be joined together.  FYI the /2 refers to the fact that the rail has two (2) t-tracks, one on the top left-hand side, and the other towards the center of the bottom.  The prior guide rail (like before 2005 or thereabouts) did not have the top left t-track.

None of the routers come packaged with a guide rail.  Only the TS saws and MFTs.  The MFTs come with the rail inside the package (or at least they did with my older MFTs) and may not be able to be swapped-out by your dealer like they can with the saws -- you'd have to send it back, or something along that line, and have a very accommodating dealer [wink] -- a much simpler process with the TS saws for your dealer.

 

[Van G]

Thanks Corwin. Great advice.

 

[ScotF]

If you are leaning toward the LR32 system, many dealers allow you to swap the normal 55 inch rail with a LR32 rail and pay the difference in cost.  That is what I would do.  I think that two 55 inch holy rails would be more useful than the long 2424 rail, but that is just me -- great to have length for larger pieces, but most things are done with the smaller rail so you will need that regardless.  One of the long rails is great to speed use -- I have a 3000mm and it is great not to have to join rails.  I probably use my 75 inch rail the most as it works great for most furniture parts in my work.

Scot

 

[Paul G]

I don't think a person can have enough table saws.

I have 3 and two of them carry two blades each and I still want a couple more table saws.

A two bladed table saw? Do you mean like dado or tenon cutting?

 

[Kev]

I don't think a person can have enough table saws.

I have 3 and two of them carry two blades each and I still want a couple more table saws.

YEP - A man can certainly be judged by the number of table saws he owns  [big grin]

... a can feel a cowbell joke coming on [wink]

 

[ccarrolladams]

He could mean a table saw with two different blades mounted.

In 1953 I bought some classic 1920s era woodworking machines at an auction. To me the prize was a pair of Davis-Wells production shop 14" table saws with 3 hp motors, but they were designed for up to 7.5hp motors. The table was 56" to the right of the blade and 30" to the left. What I did not realize until I had won the bidding was that those saws had 2 blades. In addition to the normal crank to elevate the blade there was another which swapped one blade for the other. Both blades turned at once, but only one could extend above the table at a time.

While I was on military duty from 1955 to 1959 both of those saws were restored to factory new condition and the motors changed to 7.5hp 480v 3ph. The building I purchased for my custom cabinet business in 1959 had been a woodworking shop and was wired for 480v 3ph. All of the original machines there had been sold before I found the building. I added power feeds to both saws. I bought a freshly re-built Davis-Wells 12" table saw for use making dados and rabbets. My impression was that Davis-Wells was located on the West Coast, since they were a popular brand circa 1950s. In the first acution I bought a 16" jointer and a 14" thickness planer, as well as 2 shapers. I made a lot of money with those machines, but that was in an era before slider and pressure beam saws.