TS 55 Anti-tip

[Doug S]

So simple, why didn't I think of it....

 

[ChuckM]

Clever add-on!

My execution of his idea would be slightly different and simpler to make the gadget one-piece and tool-less to adjust, if I had a track saw.

I'd make it from wood too, except the rods. The sketch (not-to-scale) shows my concept.

 

[tjbnwi]

Tom

 

[ChuckM]

The anti-kickback approach, which I've watched before, works well, but for absolute precision miter cuts, Millard's offers better balance and support. The balancing downward pressure in Millard's approach is on the board, not on the guard rail which can distort the angled cuts, even so slightly because of the soft friction strips.

Does that really matter? Only the one who makes the cuts can decide (I no longer have a TS75 to experiment). I know many woodworkers are fine with just holding the saw base to balance their saws.

Millard's approach does have one drawback compared to the anti-kickback method: to miter cut a narrow board, you need to put a board of the same thickness next to it for the gadget's bar to slide on.

 

[tjbnwi]

I have to check when I get to the shop, but I recall the TS edge guide will do the exact same thing as what is shown in the first post.

As to compressing the strips, depends on the operator.

Tom

 

[Michael Kellough]

The anti-kickback approach, which I've watched before, works well, but for absolute precision miter cuts, Millard's offers better balance and support. The balancing downward pressure in Millard's approach is on the board, not on the guard rail which can distort the angled cuts, even so slightly because of the soft friction strips.

Does that really matter? Only the one who makes the cuts can decide (I no longer have a TS75 to experiment). I know many woodworkers are fine with just holding the saw base to balance their saws.

Millard's approach does have one drawback compared to the anti-kickback method: to miter cut a narrow board, you need to put a board of the same thickness next to it for the gadget's bar to slide on.

And the “guide board” must be flat.

 

[peter halle]

Tom,  yes the edge guide works.  Just flip it over.

Peter

 

[ChuckM]

Tom,  yes the edge guide works.  Just flip it over.

Peter

I have never used an edge guide. But just flipping it over won't work, will it as there's a gap that Millard points out in his video? How would you account for the gap without Millard's add-on?

 

[peter halle]

[member=57948]ChuckM[/member] , flipping the edge guide over does work on my saw.  The offset of the rods into the guide changes things.  This accessory is not for me - but might be for others.

[attachimg=1]

[attachimg=2]

Peter

 

[peter halle]

Additionally, if you are using the saw off of the rails for some reason, flip it over opposite from what I showed and the offset the opposite way will be the thickness of the base without the rail.

Peter

 

[Svar]

The anti-kickback approach, which I've watched before, works well,

Nah. Neither anti-kickback nor Makita anti-flip thing work for accurate miters. They add a slop some 1-2 degree and will tip the rail slightly if you let it go. You still have to hold the base down, which makes their use pointless other than preventing accidental fall.

 

[ChuckM]

[member=57948]ChuckM[/member] , flipping the edge guide over does work on my saw.  The offset of the rods into the guide changes things.  This accessory is not for me - but might be for others.
Peter

Thanks, Peter for the photos. I'm confused now, so there's no gap with some of the saws such as yours, though there's one on Millard's as shown in his video? Based on his video, I thought that gap was a universal issue with the TS55/edge guide.

 

[ChuckM]

The anti-kickback approach, which I've watched before, works well,

Nah. Neither anti-kickback nor Makita anti-flip thing work for accurate miters. They add a slop some 1-2 degree and will tip the rail slightly if you let it go. You still have to hold the base down, which makes their use pointless other than preventing accidental fall.

Tom did point out that the slop thing is operator-dependent, and that point actually affirms why the Millard's is superior as his is not as user-dependent. The finished miters Millard showed are pretty good by any cabinetmaking standards.

 

[peter halle]

The anti-kickback approach, which I've watched before, works well,

Nah. Neither anti-kickback nor Makita anti-flip thing work for accurate miters. They add a slop some 1-2 degree and will tip the rail slightly if you let it go. You still have to hold the base down, which makes their use pointless other than preventing accidental fall.

Tom did point out that the slop thing is operator-dependent, and that point actually affirms why the Millard's is superior as his is not as user-dependent. The finished miters Millard showed are pretty good by any cabinetmaking standards.

Here are two images - one showing the parallel guide installed one way and then one the other.  I am not bashing he accessory.  But for some it might not be necessary.  I have laid a pen in the picture to hopefully illustrate the differences between "shoe" down or up.

Peter

[attachimg=1]

[attachimg=2]

 

[Svar]

[member=57948]ChuckM[/member] , flipping the edge guide over does work on my saw.  The offset of the rods into the guide changes things.  This accessory is not for me - but might be for others.
Peter

Thanks, Peter for the photos. I'm confused now, so there's no gap with some of the saws such as yours, though there's one on Millard's as shown in his video? Based on his video, I thought that gap was a universal issue with the TS55/edge guide.

The guide in the video is clearly different from the Festool guide. I think its Bosch.

 

[ChuckM]

[member=57948]ChuckM[/member] , flipping the edge guide over does work on my saw.  The offset of the rods into the guide changes things.  This accessory is not for me - but might be for others.
Peter

Thanks, Peter for the photos. I'm confused now, so there's no gap with some of the saws such as yours, though there's one on Millard's as shown in his video? Based on his video, I thought that gap was a universal issue with the TS55/edge guide.

The guide in the video is clearly different from the Festool guide. I think its Bosch.

Now that makes sense. Thanks.

 

[Doug S]

I'm totally confused now  [crying]

If I use my saw off the rail with the guide upside down (shoe up ?) it all sits flat.

If I use my saw on the rail with the guide upside down there is obviously a gap under the guide but if I use the guide the right way up (as if using for intended purpose) it lifts my saw a few mill off the track.

Maybe things have changed slightly over time, my saw is at least 10yrs old but I did replace the base about a year ago.

The guide used in the video looks like the Festool version to me?

 

[Bohdan]

Does anyone have a part number for the festool guide for the TS55.

In their wisdom festool have created a website that really hides things well and I am unable to find it.

Thanks.

 

[tjbnwi]

Does anyone have a part number for the festool guide for the TS55.

In their wisdom festool have created a website that really hides things well and I am unable to find it.

Thanks.

[member=36526]Bohdan[/member]

They call it a parallel edge guide.

491469

Tom

 

[Bob D.]

So simple, why didn't I think of it....

Could the action of sliding the aluminum anti-tip over the workpiece leave some markings on the wood? Isn't that a problem with bare aluminum. A thin strip of self-stick UHMW plastic tape fixed to the underside would solve this and also reduce friction.