TS 55 bevel cut issues

Mdwoodart

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Joined
Apr 11, 2015
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6
I'm in a custom mill works shop. I purchased a ts55 back in February. It has served me well so far and love it. A couple weeks ago I was scribing a 6' tall vanity column to a wall. This required me to rip the face frame. The face frame is 1" thick maple. I was cross cutting this stuff on an MFT without any issues whatsoever. But on this rip the saw struggled very hard. It almost bogged out a couple times but a lot of patience got thru it. Maybe the blade is getting dull, but if that's the case, wouldn't it struggle thru crosscuts too?

Fast forward to this past Tuesday. I was tasked with making these wall dividers out of white oak 3/4" plywood. They are essentially hollow box sleeves that will slide onto a steel frame. The are 7' tall 42" wide and 3" thick with miters.
I set up for the first bevel cut and begin.

I'm using 2-55" track sections saw speed is all the way up using the stock blade that doesn't seem dull at all but it bogged out thru the entire cut. Weird (kinda fishery) smells but no smoke came from the motor vents. At one point after the saw bogged out the worst the motor would give a slight humming noise and the blade would spin slightly but any load sptopped it dead while the motor still hummed strangely. I stopped, waited about 20 seconds and tried it again it sounded normal at this point and finished the cut. Lots of burn on the part side, minimal burn on the off cut piece. I'm on a very stable, flat bench with an MDF top. I was using track clamps so there was no movement. Maybe the track mis aligned. Maybe technique issue? Maybe a bad saw. I had to finish all the bevel cuts with the shops makita track saw. My saw was cutting the 90degree cuts just fine while the makita did the bevels.

Do I have a bad/faulty saw? Or do I need to go back to track saw schhol
 
The standard blade that the TS55 comes with is not designed for ripping, it will bog down and overheat the saw so it will stop and cool off.

You need a ripping blade if you are going to rip solid timber and when you get one you will really notice the difference.

Unfortunately the ripping blade leaves a rougher surface and if I need a glue ready cut I use the standard blade and go slow.

P.S. The link is to the AU site as the US one is a dud.
 
The ripping blade does indeed make a big difference.  You can still rip with the stock blade, but you have to make sure that the blade is sharp and especially clean. You'd be surprised how much just a little crud and resin on the teeth can impede the saw.  Until you get a ripping blade, I'd recommend cleaning the blade with a wire brush and some cleaner (like CMT:https://www.amazon.com/Cmt-Blade-Cleaner-Spray-Bottle/dp/B000GPF4NC).  You can do it without the cleaner, but it will take longer.
 
The others are right about ripping. For short rips, the standard blade is fine but for longer rips, going slow will work sometimes but mostly you need a rip blade. The other thing I'd check is whether the blade came loose. I thought this was impossible but had it happen to me for no reason. I hadn't changed or removed the blade recently and I always tighten me blades securely. I also know someone else who had this happen. Not likely the problem, but worth checking.
 
I would use the Universal blade (28 teeth) as the best compromise between the 48 tooth supplied blade and the Panther.

Peter
 
Peter Parfitt said:
I would use the Universal blade (28 teeth) as the best compromise between the 48 tooth supplied blade and the Panther.

Peter

I was just about to ask if the universal blade would perhaps leave a better surface than the Panther, and how the kerf of the universal blade compares to the kerf of the Panther compares to the kerf of the standard 48 tooth blade included with the saw.  I don't have either the Panther or the universal, but the universal is advertised as narrow kerf.

I can always look up the specs - I'm more interested in the impressions of people who have used the various blades.

 
Thanks everyone, the blade change makes perfect sense. I didn't realize just how important a job specific blade would be.  I ordered a panther and a universal just now...
 
I'm pretty sure that all of Festool's ts55 blades now have a 2.2mm kerf.

There used to be different widths through the range years ago, but that was changed.  Now it makes having to change the guide strip for each blade moot.
 
antss said:
I'm pretty sure that all of Festool's ts55 blades now have a 2.2mm kerf.

There used to be different widths through the range years ago, but that was changed.  Now it makes having to change the guide strip for each blade moot.

You are right.

Peter
 
I noticed in the Systainer for my TSC55 there is room to store a
second blade on the left in its package which is handy. It fits right
behind the dust bag in a separate slot in the foam insert.

So I keep the universal blade there and have the panther if I need it.
 
I'm going from memory here, but there's a circular spot for blade storage under the saw too.

Out of the package though.
 
Bob D. said:
I noticed in the Systainer for my TSC55 there is room to store a
second blade on the left in its package which is handy. It fits right
behind the dust bag in a separate slot in the foam insert.

So I keep the universal blade there and have the panther if I need it.
Yep, you can do the same with the TS 55 as well.
 
Bob D. said:
I noticed in the Systainer for my TSC55 there is room to store a
second blade on the left in its package ...

In the standard systainer for the corded TS-55 there is a "round" space below the saw that holds at least a couple of blades.
I have not used it yet, since I am more confident in keeping the blades in their packages as well, to prevent from banging them up.
If I find time to make a circular pouch for the blades, this might change..  [big grin] [cool]
 
So just to be clear the makita track saw with its standard blade (48 tooth) had no trouble ripping through the material?  Same material that bogged out the ts55. I too have had this same experience.
 
There's more to it than just the number of teeth on a blade of course.
Number of teeth, tooth design, gullet size and shape, hook angle of teeth,
but most of all what type of cut the blade was designed to perform (rip,
combo, crosscut) makes a big difference.
 
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