This is what I do. Because guide rail is squishy and saw trinions are not rigid enough fiddling with protractors and squares is counterproductive. Particularly on bevel cuts. Just cut and adjust. Eyeballing half a degree is not difficult.
Fair to say we woodworkers often approach an identical problem in different ways. While I, too, ultimately rely on test cuts to verify my machine settings, I do prefer or hope for in some cases using gadgets or proven methods that will help me get there quickly or reduce the amount of test cutting, which isn't fun. (To tune up my brand new Kapex:https://www.lumberjocks.com/projects/151130, I wish there were a quicker method.)
bulubuluplopplop's post provides a very helpful and step-by-step guide in tuning the TS55 as a starting point.
Yep, thats the point I was trying to make... use references to reduce the amount of test cutting...
and when u make a certain bevel, like 34 deg, how do u check the cut angle after a test cut ? Again, u need a good angle checker to determine what u just cut. The ZERO deg cut, and even the 45 is unique as they are much easier to check with squares (two 45s = 90).
To test the cut use the digital inclinometer to read the difference in angle between the surface and the bevel. You can use the zero function if you want but simple subtraction works too.
Sometimes (on thick stock) I get out the vernier protractor. Mine was well under $200.
For really tight joints I overcut slightly so the thine edges of the bevels make the tightest contact. I hate seeing a gap.