TS 55 not cutting square
- Thread starter mbira
- Start date
This is what I do. Because guide rail is squishy and saw trinions are not rigid enough fiddling with protractors and squares is counterproductive. Particularly on bevel cuts. Just cut and adjust. Eyeballing half a degree is not difficult.rst said:
WillB said:> Jeez guys...just make a couple test cuts and adjust from there...this really is not rocket science.
I knew this was coming, hence all my disclaimers, but to no avail!
Fair to say we woodworkers often approach an identical problem in different ways. While I, too, ultimately rely on test cuts to verify my machine settings, I do prefer or hope for in some cases using gadgets or proven methods that will help me get there quickly or reduce the amount of test cutting, which isn't fun. (To tune up my brand new Kapex:https://www.lumberjocks.com/projects/151130, I wish there were a quicker method.)
bulubuluplopplop's post provides a very helpful and step-by-step guide in tuning the TS55 as a starting point.
Yep, thats the point I was trying to make... use references to reduce the amount of test cutting...
and when u make a certain bevel, like 34 deg, how do u check the cut angle after a test cut ? Again, u need a good angle checker to determine what u just cut. The ZERO deg cut, and even the 45 is unique as they are much easier to check with squares (two 45s = 90).
and when u make a certain bevel, like 34 deg, how do u check the cut angle after a test cut ? Again, u need a good angle checker to determine what u just cut. The ZERO deg cut, and even the 45 is unique as they are much easier to check with squares (two 45s = 90).
Michael Kellough
Member
To test the cut use the digital inclinometer to read the difference in angle between the surface and the bevel. You can use the zero function if you want but simple subtraction works too.
Sometimes (on thick stock) I get out the vernier protractor. Mine was well under $200.
For really tight joints I overcut slightly so the thine edges of the bevels make the tightest contact. I hate seeing a gap.
Sometimes (on thick stock) I get out the vernier protractor. Mine was well under $200.
For really tight joints I overcut slightly so the thine edges of the bevels make the tightest contact. I hate seeing a gap.
Packard
Member
I find it is easier to measure the angle of the cut rather than the angle of the blade.
Check the angle with a good square, combination square or a protractor. A combination square is pretty much an essential piece of equipment.
Make your cut. Check the cut for square using a square or combination square. Adjust the blade until the cut is perfectly square. It is much easier to check the cut material than it is to check the blade angle.
I have a Starrett combination square and a very small Starrett square. They came as a set and are pretty expensive. But even modestly priced squares are generally accurate enough for wood working.
Here is how they are used:
Check the angle with a good square, combination square or a protractor. A combination square is pretty much an essential piece of equipment.
Make your cut. Check the cut for square using a square or combination square. Adjust the blade until the cut is perfectly square. It is much easier to check the cut material than it is to check the blade angle.
I have a Starrett combination square and a very small Starrett square. They came as a set and are pretty expensive. But even modestly priced squares are generally accurate enough for wood working.
Here is how they are used:
