ts 55 or 75

duburban

Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2011
Messages
1,044
I found someone selling a ts75 at almost the same price as a ts55. If they were both the same price, which one would you buy?

I do a lot of designer concrete which translates to breaking down sheet goods. I see using the TS as an edge joiner onsight to avoid buying a full size jointer.

I like the idea of the ts55 for its size and weight. What say you?
 
For sheet goods, the 55 is perfect. If you're ripping a lot of thicker lumber, the 55 will struggle, especially with the stock blade. I only have the 55, and haven't tried the ripping blade yet, so can't comment there.
 
I think the general consensus is that unless you have a specific need for the 75, you should default and get the 55.

In other words, if you don't know which you want...you most likely will do fine with the 55.

What do you mean by designer concrete, and how thick is it?
 
greenMonster said:
I think the general consensus is that unless you have a specific need for the 75, you should default and get the 55.

In other words, if you don't know which you want...you most likely will do fine with the 55.

What do you mean by designer concrete, and how thick is it?

designer concrete would be the countertops with built in sinks all out of concrete, i do bath tubs, single piece shower walls etc. i won't be cutting any concrete with the saw but the melamine form material needs to be cut at odd angles like inside corners out of square.

the 55 sounds like it may be for me
 
I do mainly sheet goods with my 55. It is great for this. When I do rip thicker hardwood, I prefer to just make 2 or 3 passes, depending on material and thickness. I have the panther blade, but the cut quality is not nearly as good as the stock blade. I use the panther for rough cuts, framing lumber, garage cabinets, etc.

I would prefer the 55 if the price was the same.
 
My first Festool purchase was a TS75, which I bought hoping to replace an aging Craftsman table saw.  I got the 75 for the extra depth of cut, and figured that bigger is better.  That was before I knew about this forum.

The 75 won't replace a table saw, at least for my uses, which is primarily for furniture making as a hobbyist.  I use it primarily for breaking down sheet goods, and occasionally for quick cross-cuts so I don't have to change a setup on my table saw. 

IMHO the 75 is overkill for the way I use it, and I wish I had bought a TS55.  I don't need the added size and weight, although it really isn't a problem for me, as I am not using it all day or hauling it to a job site.  From your description of how you would use it, I think the 55 would be just fine for you. 

Happy New Year
Steve
 
For what it's worth, I rip thick stock with the TS 55 and 28 tooth blade without a problem and they're clean cuts.
 
Ken Nagrod said:
For what it's worth, I rip thick stock with the TS 55 and 28 tooth blade without a problem and they're clean cuts.

thanks Ken, sounds like i may be sold on it.
 
I bought the 75 as my first festool purchase and returned it 2 days later for the 55. The 75 is a beast and unless you're needing the full rip capacity and power get the 55.
 
I'll tell ya the same thing that I told a guy at my brick and motar supplier the other day. The supplier was recomending that he get the TS55 .

He was buying a TS 75 and was a wood floor installer. I told him unless he needed the extra cutting debth the TS55 was the way to go. Because the weight of using the TS 75. Especially after hauling it around and using it all day.

Even the TS 55 gets heavy to me after a day of usage.

So for me weight is a huge consideration.

After he bought the TS 75 and was getting ready to walk out, The supplier told him that He had 30 days to use it and return it.

I suspect after using that monster for a full day, that He'll be back.
 
I started out with a TS75 because I was ripping rough cut ash 2+" thick.  It was the tool for the job!  After several years, I bought the TS55 w/MFT-3 package from Bob M, because the TS75 is overkill on sheet goods and the smaller saw is easier to handle.  I'm glad I have both, but I'd buy the TS55 if it were only for sheet goods.  It has the power and depth of cut to handle 2 sheets of 3/4" (18mm) melamine stacked if you need identical pieces.  I do this with my damp paper towel trick to keep the sheets from sliding around.  [cool]
 
Well I bought the TS55 this fall and have been using it on sheet goods. It's terrific.

However this spring I plan to be making a desktop out of 1.5" glue-up maple and will need to crosscut this. It will be an interesting test.

I wonder if I should get a different blade for this? Or will the standard blade work well.

 
Ideally I'd like the ts75 and the makita track saw. Would it be possible to pair the two tools to one track and retain a perfect zero clearance?
 
Like almost all of the other people replying, I bought the 55.  I like the lighter weight and smaller size.  I think its easier to control smaller lighter tools than larger heavy ones.  Which is why I use a 12 volt cordless drill and not the bigger heavier 14 and 18 volt ones.  I use my 55 for cutting 3/4" hardwood and sheet goods.  1/4 and 3/4 plywood.  Table saw and SCMS for ripping or crosscutting about everything else.

Once I crosscut a particleboard/melamine countertop and wished I had the deeper cutting 75 to cut deeper into the backstop.  But with either saw I would still need to finish the cut manually with a saw.  Used a Japanese saw.  I have read on other forums about people promoting the 75 and saying because you are pushing it on the guide rail, the extra weight and size do not matter.  I don't believe them.
 
I spent most of last week working with my 75 as I didn't have the 55 with me.  I didn't find it too heavy or uncomfortable.  Having said that, I'd still purchase the 55 if I could only have one.  Either one works great.
 
I briefly owned the Makita and the TS55 at the same time before a friend took the Makita off my hands.  There was about 2 or 3mm difference between the Makita and the Festool in terms of blade offset (and therefore a gap on the splitter guard.)  There might be a way of adjusting them to get the same clearance, but I didn't have a reason to investigate.

Mark
 
Back
Top