TS 55 Reliability/Quality Problem

[mtbev]

I work side by side with a subcontractor of mine who occasionally uses his TS 55 saw. We both own the same saw and know how to properly use it. He just had his armature replaced for the second time for a cost of $150 plus shipping. This time it was not under warranty.

This is what happened:  The saw began "burning up" while cutting 1.5" deep through yellow pine with a fresh blade. We were cutting at a slow pace for a total of 12 LF. We had a total of 4 cuts to make. We pulled out the makita circular saw to finish the project and it breezed the cuts.

This saw was not abused and had 2 repairs of the same nature. Festool charges a premium for their tools. I own several Festool tools. I strongly question the reliability of the festool track saw and may look to other manufactures for future tools. Has anyone else had this kind of trouble?

 

[ear3]

That's certainly frustrating.  By burning up do you mean the cut quality or the saw itself?

Did you check the blade to see if it was clean, and what tooth count was the blade?  Especially on rip cuts in thick material the blade type and its relative state of cleanliness can make a big difference in the cut quality.

I work side by side with a subcontractor of mine who occasionally uses his TS 55 saw. We both own the same saw and know how to properly use it. He just had his armature replaced for the second time for a cost of $150 plus shipping. This time it was not under warranty.

This is what happened:  The saw began "burning up" while cutting 1.5" deep through yellow pine with a fresh blade. We were cutting at a slow pace for a total of 12 LF. We had a total of 4 cuts to make. We pulled out the makita circular saw to finish the project and it breezed the cuts.

This saw was not abused and had 2 repairs of the same nature. Festool charges a premium for their tools. I own several Festool tools. I strongly question the reliability of the festool track saw and may look to other manufactures for future tools. Has anyone else had this kind of trouble?

 

[Brice Burrell]

We haven't seen a lot of issues on the FOG with the TS55 armature (on the Kapex is different story).  Were you using a rip blade or the fine tooth blade that comes with the saw?

 

[mtbev]

Yes it was the motor that burnt up .It was a 48 tooth blade. I figured in such a soft wood it would be fine, especially since it died in the middle of a 12 ft rip on such a soft wood.

 

[semenza]

Yes it was the motor that burnt up .It was a 48 tooth blade. I figured in such a soft wood it would be fine, especially since it died in the middle of a 12 ft rip on such a soft wood.

Hi,

  Welcome to the forum!  [smile]

The 48 tooth Fine blade has tooth geometry for cross cuts and sheet goods.

Use a rip blade. I have found cuts in pine , especially construction lumber, can be more binding on the blade than other woods that are harder.

Seth

 

[sheperd80]

Sorry to hear about your trouble. My ts55 is just over a year old and no problems yet, but the motor certainly feels weak. It bogs down pretty easily. I dont plan to use it on hardwood much as it just doesnt feel like its built for that. I love the features and accuracy of it, but its kind of a gutless wonder. My little milwaukee cordless is atleast twice as powerful. I wish festool would drop the electronic speed control nonsense. It seems like such a pointless feature considering the saw bogs down on EVERYTHING. Ditch the over-engineered electronics and give me a motor with some power.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

 

[Cheese]

Definitely swap out the 48 tooth blade for the 12 tooth rip blade. I'd even try using the 12 tooth rip blade (500463) for the HKC. The kerf on the HKC blade is .4mm narrower which means theoretically, it should use 20% less power.

It may be the moisture content in the yellow pine is the culprit.

I am surprised however, that the temp control circuit and the current limiting circuit didn't kick in  [sad]  to prevent the damage, that's what they're for.  [mad]  [mad]

 

[glass1]

Use a rip blade or just get the Makita. Bigger huevos. Corded or cordless.

 

[Brice Burrell]

A rip blade is optimal.  That said, I'd recommend the 28 tooth blade as a general purpose blade.  I use the Freud 28 tooth blade.  You can get these for for around 30 bucks on Amazon. Freud 28 tooth blade, Amazon 

 

[Corwin]

A rip blade is optimal.  That said, I'd recommend the 28 tooth blade as a general purpose blade.  I use the Freud 28 tooth blade.  You can get these for for around 30 bucks on Amazon. Freud 28 tooth blade, Amazon

Keep in mind that changing blades with different sized kerfs will affect the guide rail's splinter strip. The Festool blades have a 2.2mm kerf. This Freud blade has a 2.5mm kerf. Not a big difference, but it will cut into your splinter strip a little more and therefore when you reinstall a blade with the narrower kerf, your splinter strip will no longer work as well with that blade.

 

[pettyconstruction]

A rip blade is optimal.  That said, I'd recommend the 28 tooth blade as a general purpose blade.  I use the Freud 28 tooth blade.  You can get these for for around 30 bucks on Amazon. Freud 28 tooth blade, Amazon

Keep in mind that changing blades with different sized kerfs will affect the guide rail's splinter strip. The Festool blades have a 2.2mm kerf. This Freud blade has a 2.5mm kerf. Not a big difference, but it will cut into your splinter strip a little more and therefore when you reinstall a blade with the narrower kerf, your splinter strip will no longer work as well with that blade.

Speaking of that, I just discovered my HKC blade has a thinner kerf.
Now I have a TS-75 a Tcs-45and a Hkc-55 all with different kerfs.[emoji15]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Tyler Ernsberger]

I like to think that the TS55 is made for material less than 1 inch.  Anything over a inch a ts75 should be used. Or just do what I did and buy a Mafell Mt55.  My issues with the ts55 is that it’s too underpowered.

 

[jcjc]

if either of you replaces your ts55, get the mafell. i bought a ts55req and a mafell mt55, used them both and sent the ts55 back.

 

[Brice Burrell]

if either of you replaces your ts55, get the mafell. i bought a ts55req and a mafell mt55, used them both and sent the ts55 back.

We will be getting the Bosch version of the MT55 here in the states in the fall.  It doesn't have all the features of the Mafell but it comes in at the same price of the TS55.  I'll into replacing my 12 year old TS55 then.

 

[Brice Burrell]

A rip blade is optimal.  That said, I'd recommend the 28 tooth blade as a general purpose blade.  I use the Freud 28 tooth blade.  You can get these for for around 30 bucks on Amazon. Freud 28 tooth blade, Amazon

Keep in mind that changing blades with different sized kerfs will affect the guide rail's splinter strip. The Festool blades have a 2.2mm kerf. This Freud blade has a 2.5mm kerf. Not a big difference, but it will cut into your splinter strip a little more and therefore when you reinstall a blade with the narrower kerf, your splinter strip will no longer work as well with that blade.

Corwin, I've found that's only true in theory.  In practice the splinter guard wares down enough that isn't really a problem.  If you're the type that diligently adjusts/replaces the splinter guard then maybe. 

 

[Lettusbee]

Anybody else notice that the HKC ships with what is basically a rip blade? 
Hmm.  They pulled the wool over my eyes with that one. 
Never again. 
I am done with Festool saws. 
Sanders? fine.  I love their sanders. 
Saws?  No more.
I have my HKC on local Craigslist, wishing I had returned it before the 30 day window expired. 
Not even gonna try the Kapex.
My 10 Year old TS55 has lived through a lot of abuse.  I'll give it credit for that.  It has always been gutless though.  But I'm genuinely afraid to try the latest TS55 saw.
I'm going with Mafell for my next saw purchase.
I'm not here to inflame anyone's emotions. 
I genuinely would like for Festool to understand where I am coming from and why I am avoiding all of their saw products for the foreseeable future. 

 

[glass1]

If got a trust fund buy the mafell. Otherwise buy the cordless Makita. I think it’s got more power than the ts75.

 

[Svar]

Anybody else notice that the HKC ships with what is basically a rip blade? 
Hmm.  They pulled the wool over my eyes with that one.

What do you mean they pulled the wool over your eyes? It says right there on HKC Festool page - comes with W18 saw blade.
Besides, it's a construction saw. Makes perfect sense to have a more aggressive blade on it.

 

[AlexThePalex]

I find the motor of the TS55 very weak, I am totally not surprised to hear that the motor burned up using the 48 tooth blade with a rip cut. As long as I cut sheet goods up to an inch my TS is fine, but beyond that it stalls wayyyyy more often than I like, and as soon as I have to money I'm going to replace it with a Bosch or Mafell (hopefully Mafell).

 

[mtbev]

Thanks everyone so far for posting.

This is seems to be the summary from the comments so far:

The blade, bc it wasn't perfectly matched to the type of cut, caused the saw to burn up.

The depth of plunge should never be maximized since this saw is under powered and only designed for sheet goods.

I own a small cabinet shop and none of my tools have these restrictions. Usually the power of the saw corresponds to the depth of cut. Even though I used a crosscut blade for cutting the soft pine, it should have easily handled it. I can put any blade on any of my makita circ saws and they won't burn up after a full days abuse on a framing job.

I didn't add in my first comment that the first saw burned up on 3/4 MDF!

I believe festool should increase power on the saw and market it for "light use only", followed by a $300 reduction in price. I'm very disappointed in this weekend warrior grade saw.