TS 55 Saw Blades

[RONWEN]

I have put a lot of miles on my 48 tooth fine cut saw blade & I'm starting to notice a slight deterioration in the excellent finish I had been getting and also a slight increase in pressure to make a cut.  It tells me it's time to either get the blade sharpened or go for a new blade.
My question is for a recommendation of a place to send Festool blades for resharpening if it's possible to bring it back to the excellent performance of new.

Are there any other brands that someone believes performs better than the Festool 48 T fine cut blade (if that's possible)?

 

[Brice Burrell]

Ron, you could try Forrest for resharpening. I'd also recommend another blade so you can keep cutting while your blade(s) are out being sharpened. I don't know if there are better blades than the 48T Festool blade but Tenryu blades are equal in quality.

 

[RONWEN]

Thanks Brice!  I just had a couple of recommendations for the Forrest sharpening service over on the other forum.  They were happy with their returned blades.

I do have another new 48T that I got when I bought a Festool blade package deal so I do have a spare to cycle the rotation.

The point was also made that using a different blade quite possibly will change the zero clearance strip.

I couldn't be more pleased with the performance of the Festool 48T (beautiful cut edges) so I've decided to stay with a good thing.

Thanks very much for your help.

 

[Jay Evans]

Guys and Gals

Forrest also makes a woodworker II blade specifically for the TS-55-
Amazon sells them.  I bought a couple to try but my Festool blade hasn't dulled yet, so I haven't used them.  I expect excellent quality from all Forrest products and have not ever been disappointed, but they are costly.  IMHO the Festool blades are excellent and well worth the price.  The advantage to the Forrest blades are that if you like them and they do a good job for you, Forrest will resharpen them back to exact original equipment standards and guarantee the sharpening.  I believe they will also sharpen Festool blades, but not being the OE supplier, the sharpening may be diffrent from the original grind.

I also assume there will be a sleight kerf difference between the two makers, so the guide rail strip may be impacted by the change.  I just mention Forrest as another option.

Jay

 

[RONWEN]

Guys and Gals

Forrest also makes a woodworker II blade specifically for the TS-55-
Amazon sells them.  I bought a couple to try but my Festool blade hasn't dulled yet, so I haven't used them.  I expect excellent quality from all Forrest products and have not ever been disappointed, but they are costly.  IMHO the Festool blades are excellent and well worth the price.  The advantage to the Forrest blades are that if you like them and they do a good job for you, Forrest will resharpen them back to exact original equipment standards and guarantee the sharpening.  I believe they will also sharpen Festool blades, but not being the OE supplier, the sharpening may be diffrent from the original grind.

I also assume there will be a sleight kerf difference between the two makers, so the guide rail strip may be impacted by the change.  I just mention Forrest as another option.

Jay

Thanks Jay, I just took a look over on Amazon -- that blade has good reviews but as you say it will change the zero clearance strip so since I am extremely happy with the Festool 48T blade I think I'll continue using those. 
One of the guys over on the other forum mentioned that Forrest will even replace chipped teeth if needed so they must be a first class sharpening house (as are their new blades).

http://www.amazon.com/Forrest-WW16507100-Woodworker-32-Inch-Circular/dp/B000OMN36W/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

 

[peter halle]

I am sitting on my arse and am too comfortable to get out the packaging (box or sleeve), but I believe that on the sleeve it has all the grinding and sharpening angles.  If so, the blades should be sent to the sharpener with the sleeve in my humble opinion.

peter

 

[RONWEN]

I am sitting on my arse and am too comfortable to get out the packaging (box or sleeve), but I believe that on the sleeve it has all the grinding and sharpening angles.  If so, the blades should be sent to the sharpener with the sleeve in my humble opinion.

peter

I think I remember seeing that info also -- good point!

 

[Brice Burrell]

I am sitting on my arse and am too comfortable to get out the packaging (box or sleeve), but I believe that on the sleeve it has all the grinding and sharpening angles.  If so, the blades should be sent to the sharpener with the sleeve in my humble opinion.

peter

I don't remember seeing the info on the sleeve but I know it's on the blade for sure.

 

[Michael Kellough]

Guys and Gals

Forrest also makes a woodworker II blade specifically for the TS-55-
Amazon sells them.  I bought a couple to try but my Festool blade hasn't dulled yet, so I haven't used them.  I expect excellent quality from all Forrest products and have not ever been disappointed, but they are costly.  IMHO the Festool blades are excellent and well worth the price.  The advantage to the Forrest blades are that if you like them and they do a good job for you, Forrest will resharpen them back to exact original equipment standards and guarantee the sharpening.  I believe they will also sharpen Festool blades, but not being the OE supplier, the sharpening may be diffrent from the original grind.

I also assume there will be a sleight kerf difference between the two makers, so the guide rail strip may be impacted by the change.  I just mention Forrest as another option.

Jay

I have the Forrest blade and posted a brief review of it at talkFestool.

The Forrest blade does have a wider kerf but the blade disk is much thicker
than the Festool blades so the kerf is actually out beyond the splinter guard.
I also had very bad burning on one side of the blade. I suppose I needed to
change the toe adjustment but didn't bother. I just put the Festool blade back
on since it works well.

 

[jvsteenb]

Ron,

I'm sure you already now this, as do most readers, but for the benefit of those who don't I'll toss it in just as well:

By far my best results in restoring a blade to it's original performance were made using a fitting plate or shallow dish, foam-type ovencleaner, 30 minutes of patience, an old toothbrush and some elbowgrease.
Festool blades sport A-grade carbide teeth, and resinous grime build-up usually deteriorates the blades performance way before the teeth actually dull, especially so in softwoods. Sawing some species of spruce, I cleaned the blade some 25 times, before it was actually due for sharpening.

Regards,

Job

 

[RONWEN]

Ron,

I'm sure you already now this, as do most readers, but for the benefit of those who don't I'll toss it in just as well:

By far my best results in restoring a blade to it's original performance were made using a fitting plate or shallow dish, foam-type ovencleaner, 30 minutes of patience, an old toothbrush and some elbowgrease.
Festool blades sport A-grade carbide teeth, and resinous grime build-up usually deteriorates the blades performance way before the teeth actually dull, especially so in softwoods. Sawing some species of spruce, I cleaned the blade some 25 times, before it was actually due for sharpening.

Regards,

Job

Thanks, I wasn't aware of that "trick".  The blade looks really clean but that is worth a try. 

 

[MarkF]

An alternative to the Forrest is Tenyru's line of blades.  They have the advantage of the same kerf for the rip and crosscut blades so issues with the anti-splinter strip go away.  My cuts are as clean as the Festool blades.

Oven cleaners and strong detergents are not recommended by the major blade manufacturers for cleaning.  A kerosene soak or a cleaner specifically made for Carbide and an old toothbrush are your best bet.  I use the CMT product: http://www.amazon.com/CMT-Formula-2050-Blade-Cleaner/dp/B000GPF4NC
and have excellent results.

 

[jvsteenb]

You're right Mark, it's supposedly best to use kerosene. But that's a volatile petrochemical compound that I'd rather not use too much, and the oven-cleaner treatment can easily be done inside the house. I favor my longs over my blades anyday, and as yet haven't had any detrimental effects to either from this treatment.
I do dry them thoroughly, and treat them with an ever-so-slight mist of camelia-oil afterwards. No rust, and slows the grime build-up.
I used to treat my router bits the same, but nowadays I routinely clean them in an ultrasound cleaner ( yeah, yeah, toolsnob....  [unsure] )

Regards,

Job.

 

[Michael Kellough]

I used to use oven cleaner on dirty saw blades until someone suggested
Simple Green concentrated detergent. It works! I just lay the blade in
the slop sink and spray the detergent on the teeth. Flip the blade over
and spray the other side and let it sit a few minutes then scrub each side
with a stiff synthetic bristle brush, rinse, dry and re-install.

The oven cleaner made me sneeze violently even through a dust mask.

 

[MarkF]

Sorry to disagree but here is my reference against oven cleaner from an old Woodnet posting:

QUOTE

Definitely avoid oven cleaner and other caustics. They attack the cobalt binder in the carbide and can lead to carbide failure (translates to tiny missiles of carbide at 100+ mph). Also, Freud and some other brands of blades have a tri-metal brazing foil that uses copper alloy for a cushioning layer. The copper can also be affected by these cleaners (translates to larger missiles of carbide). We recommend soaking overnight in kerosene in a vented container and using a stiff nylon bristle brush to clean. Teflon coated plates will clean up with a soapy cloth (except for the teeth as mentioned earlier). There are commercial blade cleaning products that are not caustic but we don't officially sanction them.

The manufacturers of Simple Green recommend NOT USING their product for carbide tool cleaning. Freud recommends using kerosene.

Charles M.
Freud, Inc.

CLOSE QUOTE

Freud, Leitz (Leitz makes Festool blades) and most of the other blade/bit makers use a similar process for attaching the carbide.  The orange CMT pump spray I use was less than $10 US and has lasted me 3 years and I still have 3/4 of the bottle.  It just takes a light spritz, wait 2 minutes, a light swipe with an old toothbrush then a paper towel and you're back in business.  Why take a chance?

 

[jvsteenb]

Mark,

I absolutely WANT you to disagree, when safety is at stake.
Might it be that the ovencleaner on my side of the pond is a bit less caustic/agressive? I couldn't relate to the sneezing issue Michael mentioned...
Anyhow, it's good to know that "Oven cleaner" is certainly not a panacea for cleaning carbide edges.

I do have some nice biodegradable cleaner that I use to clean my chainsaws, I could give that a try, it's pretty mild stuff.

Regards,

Job

 

[RONWEN]

As always has been my experience here, asking a question or advice on this forum (as well as over at talkFestool) results in EXCELLENT input from a wide variety of experienced people.  I very much appreciate the responses which help to build my (and of course everyone's) woodworking knowledge and safety.

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

Just find a good sharpener.
I am on sharpening #2 and #3 on a couple Festool blades.
I can run one about 6-8 months before sharpening.

The info about the tooth pitch is right on the blade, so it should not be rocket science to a good sharpener.

 

[Michael Kellough]

Job, oven cleaner over here is lye, if I'm not mistaken.

Mark, why is Simple Green not good for carbide?

 

[MarkF]

Michael,
I don't know why Simple Green is not OK.  Maybe Simple Green doesn't want to accept liability for any potential problems and it's easier for them to just have a blanket statement which covers them.  The CMT cleaner smells just like Simple Green to me but it may be very different.  All I know is it works very well and I have no loose teeth on my blades (or in my mouth ;D)  My blades go from mediocre cutting when dirty to almost like new after I use it.  I trust Charles McCracken at Freud.  They have an 'N" of a few million/year as far as a sample size so you gotta give them some credit when they make a recommendation.  Especially when it comes to spinning, razor sharp pieces of carbide.
Later,
Mark