TS 55 vs TS 75 EQ Dilemma - Help Please!

[KMorley]

I am a hobbyist with a small workshop in my garage.  My wife has assigned me a new project and I'm making sure that I have the appropriate tools before I begin.  I am planning to buy either the TS 55 EQ or TS 75 EQ and can't decide which fits my application better.  Since there is not a huge difference in cost, it's more important that I get the right tool initially and I would appreciate any recommendations.

Here's my application:

I'm going to be building cabinet carcasses from 3/4" Baltic Birch, one at a time as I have spare time.  I've got a fair number of these to do (all the kitchen and four full bathroom cabinets in our home to start), so I expect this to keep me busy for probably the next year.  There's no rush - it's a hobby, after all.

I prefer to cut the carcass sides simultaneously to guarantee that they are identical.  So, I lay two sheets of 3/4" BB on my panel jig (a 4 x 8 table tilted within about 15 degrees of vertical with a ledge at the bottom to hold the panels to be cut off the floor).  I then rough-cut through 1-1/2" of BB with a big Milwaukee circular saw and then finish these to size on my Jet Xacta cabinet saw. 

That works well enough, but I'm thinking I might streamline the process to a single cut by implementing a Festool Plunge Saw and Guide Rail.  If nothing else, the Festool Plunge Saw is probably a better tool than the Milwaukee for the rough cutting if I decide to stick to the two step process.

Here's where I need the advice:

I know that the TS 55 EQ is a very capable and popular tool and that cutting through 1-1/2" of Baltic Birch is within it's technical specification.  I also know that the TS 55 EQ is light and easy to handle, which would be a plus when using my jig (most of the cuts are vertical across the 48" dimension of the sheet - starting a few inches above the floor and finishing at around chest level).  Virtually all of my cuts are with the blade locked at 90 degrees and the kerf about 1/16" to 1/8" through the BB and into the sacrificial MDF surface on the jig.

But how practical is that application for the TS 55 EQ on an ongoing basis?  Does the TS 55 EQ really have the horsepower to cleanly cut 1-1/2" thicknesses of BB repeatedly?  Or will it only do that in a pinch and with a brand new blade?

This is hardly a production environment, but I would like to turn out one or two finished cabinets per month and I don't want to buy a TS 55 EQ and have it struggle.  I don't want to save $125 by selecting the TS 55 EQ and then be less than thrilled with the result.  I want clean edges with little or no burn.  I especially don't want to have to buy a fresh blade every other weekend.

This has me wondering if the TS 75 EQ might be better-suited for this application.  I would appreciate any comments, suggestions and recommendations.

Thanks!

Ken Morley
Tampa, Florida

 

[peter halle]

Ken,

First let me welcome to the forum.

Your situation and Festool's thirty day no questions asked return policy are a perfect match.  If you go with one saw over the other and find that despite whatever suggestions you receive here that it doesn't work right for you - you can change.

I am a TS55 owner.  Gang cutting plywood with clean edges is within its capabilities.  Personally I wouldn't hesitate.  Blade life with be determined by materials - that is true with any blade from any manufacturer.

I cut my sheets on the flat.  I don't like to work against gravity.  The TS75 is a larger heavier saw.  Your description of the table / jig that you currently use makes me wonder if the design will have to be altered to make sure that the rails and saw have enough starting space at the bottom to plunge and hopefully allow for dust collection.  You didn't say whether you start your cut at the top and work with gravity or at the bottom and work against it.

Personally if I were in your shoes I would try the TS55 cutting flat and think about looking at the parallel guides.  That would allow you to set the parallel guides for your dimensions, cut what you need one session and easily duplicate that the next session.  Or take your savings and buy an additional rail  and connectors so that if you want you can approach the project with the cuts lengthwise first as a possibility - cutting on a flat surface.

I am sure you will get other opinions.  Ask any questions!

Peter

 

[mouppe]

Hi,

I bought the TS55 a month or so ago after a similar soul-search. Then, I did a similar project recently to the one you are describing with the TS55. Worked like a charm. Clean cuts, finish-ready.
I cannot imagine ever needing a deeper cut or a more powerful saw, and if I did I am sure there would be a workaround.

Good luck and enjoy using whichever one you go for,
Richard.

 

[JohnDistai]

Also, you are not stuck with the 55" rail when you purchase the TS 55, if rail length is an issue.  Some dealers will allow you to swap the rail for the difference in price.

 

[KMorley]

Thanks for all the views and replies, everyone.  I didn't expect this board to be so lively early in the day.

Peter:

The reason for the vertical panel jig is simply that I am severely space limited.  I would probably also prefer to cut flat, but just don't have room for a table.  Also, when cutting whole sheets flat, it's awkward to reach all the way across the table to complete the cut and ripping down the middle means climbing up onto the table.  Besides, the jig doubles as storage for unused sheets between projects (standing them on edge).

To answer your question about cut direction, I start near the floor and cut towards the ceiling against gravity.  That decision was mainly for safety - I would rather be pushing the saw away from my body than pulling it towards me.  If I start crouched and slowly stand as I cut upwards, it seems like that's a safer and more comfortable position.

The cut actual starts about a foot above the floor.  It's closer to knee height, so there should be room for the guide.  If not, I can always always raise the jig a few more inches.

I am aware that sharp saw blades are important on any tool.  What I was referring to was that my old saw could only make acceptable cuts with a brand new blade - and then not always.  Blades that anyone would normally consider "sharp" were not sharp enough for that underpowered and possibly misused saw.  That saw didn't need any encouragement to bog down, burn, bind, etc.  That's the impetus for wanting to make sure that whatever saw I buy has a sufficient motor.

I hadn't thought about the 30-day guarantee, but that's an excellent suggestion.  I'll probably get a bunch of material, order a TS 55 EQ and put it through the test.

Thanks for all the great information - I appreciate it and please keep it coming!

Ken Morley

 

[twang120]

I used my TS55 for trimming a shed door with 2x pressure treated stock.  It slowed down a little, but the cut was no problem and was very crisp.  IMO, the TS75 is overkill for the 90%+ times you are breaking down sheet goods.  As stated earlier, save the$$ and get the extra rail and connector kit so you can cut down full sheets of ply.

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

I bought a 55 two years ago.  I cut everything you could imagine with it.  I have yet to need the capacity of the 75.

 

[Brice Burrell]

The blade that comes on the TS55 is an outstanding blade for cutting plywood, and it stays sharp for a long time. Another vote for the 55.

 

[justinmcf]

i have the ts 55 and ts75.
i have also made vertical cuts in the past using the ts 55. i dont like doing it, unless i have no choice. be prepared for damaged guide rails. dont ask me how i know this!
i would never attempt to make vertical cuts with the ts 75. it is far to heavy for that. it is designed to be used flat.

when not working on site, i use a single car garage as a workshop. two thirds of that space is occupied by gym equipment and general building tools. one third is for wood working.
i never attempt to cut sheet goods on the vertical or the flat inside the garage. i have two saw stools, and i use these outside to initially cut down the sheet goods.
if i were you, i would forget about cutting vertically.
but old habits die hard!

regards, justin.

 

[Jack Parks]

Ken,

I have an ATF55, the predecessor to the TS55, and a TS75.  I use the TS75 to cut 6/4 and thicker stock or to do as you described to cut multiple 3/4 sheet goods and it does a great job.  You will notice the weight of the saw when you use it but it's not bad when used horizontal but I would not want to use it as a verticle panel saw.  Most of the time I grab my old ATF55 when cutting 3/4 material.

I would suggest that you get the TS55 based on your present needs.  Another advantage of the TS55 is that the splinter guard on the right side of the blade will be in play when you cut single 3/4 material.  On the TS75 the right splinter guard will not help on 3/4 material.

I suggest that you check out John Lucas' website woodshopdemos.com.  John recently passed away, but his wife is keeping the site up and running.  I use tips on using Festool that I learned from John's site everytime I work in my shop.

Another rumor I heard is that Festool is going to offer a discount on TS55 and TS75 saws and accessories within the next 30 days.  This may be bogus but if so I'm sure some of the dealers on this site will set me straight.  If it's true, you picked a good time to buy a saw.  I may even have to buy me a TS55 and sell the old ATF55.

Which ever saw you get, you will not be disappointed.  And, if you are, like others have pointed out, you can return it in 30 days.

Have fun with your project.

 

[peter halle]

Ken,

Like Jack suggested to you, my original idea was to go to the Workshopdemos.com website and find the section where they were cutting melamine sheetgoods for a cabinet and showed how you could just scoot the pieces out of the immediate way and then go on to the next cut.  I went there and ended up buying a DVD but didn't find what I was looking for, so I didn't post.  i'm sorry.

I don't have a shop at all.  My cutting station for plywood is 2 fold up sawhorses, 3  2 x 4 x 96 inch studs, and one sheet of 2 inch thick styrofoam.  Set it up in 2 minutes in front of the garage and go to town.  Light and easy to store.  Others - including Dan Rush - who travels extensively with his tools - have cut the foam sheet into pieces and have used duct tape to hinge them together to save space.

Just some additional thoughts.

Peter

 

[fshanno]

Get the 75 by all means.  Cost doesn't seem to be an issue for you.  Apparently you're in the place where if you get tired you can just stop, so weight is not an issue.  Get the big dog.  If you're gonna be a bear, be a grizzly.  Then you can look down on those of us with the 55 and say, "What a cute little saw!  You build stuff for the nursery with that?"  You won't have to take any guff from anyone about power.  The one down side may be that the big blade guard is a bit goofy looking.

Why Baltic birch?  Looking to paint the interiors a specific color?  Do you plan to expose the edges of the plywood?  That can be a very cool effect, Kerf Design makes mid-century mod cabinetry like that.  Otherwise, if you're going with birch why not prefinished?  You can get two sided birch for around $50 a sheet, single sided for less.  It's light and easy to work with.  When you assemble the case you are done and the birch looks pretty good. 

 

[Tinker]

I have the old ATF 55.  I have hefted the newer TS 75 a couplle of times and believe me, I would not want to spend a day hefting that monster.  I have cross cut 2" x 8" hard maple with no burning.  Same with 3-1/2" cherry by making cuts from opposite faces.  Still no burning. I have ripped the same woods with very little burning of the maple.  A slight more burning with the cherry.  I think the burning was because those woods tended to slow the blade down slightly or I had to slow down on he feed rates. I found I could eliminate burning be making shallower cuts.  I had a 10" craftsman table saw that did no better with those woods.  I have since retired the craftsman but have had no desire to bring in that heavy TS 75.  The few times I have had to cut thru thick hard maple, white oak and cherry, I just do the same as I did with the table saw, just make extra cuts.

I hope to eventually replace the ATF 55 with a TS 55. 

Tinker

 

[TPK02]

As a dealer I recommend the TS55 since your immediate and primary task seems to be breaking down sheet goods.  Like many of the folks have already stated the TS55 has plenty of power to handle anything you throw at it.  When I demonstrate the the saw I cut everything from cabinet grade plywood to 1" thick Ipe with out any trouble.  The TS75 is by no means a bad decision, but it is not neccessary if you don't plan on cutting material that warrants the capacity.  My two cents.

 

[GPowers]

The price difference  between the TS55 and the TS75 is not that much when you consider your getting the 1900mm guide rail and the larger Systainer.

 

[JohnDistai]

But you can also ask the dealer to swap out the rail when you buy and pay the difference in price between the rail lengths.  The larger systainer may be a negative for some.  I find that I double handle tools much more now with the systainers.  I have to stack, unstack, shift, restack, etc.  I don't think systainers are the second coming that everyone makes them out to be.

 

[luns4d]

I'm a hobbyist for about a year now with a TS55.  Get all your materials, then buy the TS55 like previously stated... and have fun.  A few times I have made 2 cut passes instead of one just for the fun of it.  It is a pleasure to make the long cuts. How's that for a change in thinking.   Make sure you get enough rails to cut the sheets in one pass.  search this forum on which rails to get.  There are whole discussions on that topic.  I went with the 55's because they fit in my small shop better.  If you go with the TS75, you will need a longer rail to make the same cut.  Don't forget to get something for the dust collection too.  A hose to your existing vac can do just fine.  Don't look at the MFT table unless you want to open that can of worms.  Oh yea, you do know this is a bit addictive for a hobbyist?

-Gary

 

[Jonhilgen]

But you can also ask the dealer to swap out the rail when you buy and pay the difference in price between the rail lengths.  The larger systainer may be a negative for some.  I find that I double handle tools much more now with the systainers.  I have to stack, unstack, shift, restack, etc.  I don't think systainers are the second coming that everyone makes them out to be.

John,

I couldn't agree more.  I'm a full time cabinet installer, and only having one tool per systainer is a PIA.  I've found that using bags with shoulder straps is much, much more efficient.  I can have three drills in one bag (as opposed to one c12 with an awkward middle handle in the systainer) or a jigsaw, belt sander, and skill saw (for grunt work) in another bag.  If I was using systainers to carry these [eek]...Even if I cram a couple of tools in a systainer 5, they're still awkward to carry up multiple flights of stairs with other  tools.  More trips = less money.

I'd hate to give another free idea to Festool  [big grin] , but how about some heavy duty canvas bags as an option instead of systainers.

 

[JohnDistai]

I had this similar dilemma a few months ago when I was going to buy.  I found several comments on similar threads about the extra heft of the 55 vs. the 75.  The 55 is 9 lbs, and the 75 is 13 or 14 lbs.  If you are not working on a MFT, and you plan to make lots of long cuts, then that weight difference may be negligible.  However, if you plan to get a MFT, that weight difference becomes noticeable very quickly.  The reason is the work method.

If you make long cuts on something like a sheet of plywood, you may only handle the saw a couple of times.  On the MFT, however you may handle the saw much more frequently.  You may position the piece, drop the rail, position the saw, make the cut, remove the saw, lift the rail, reposition the piece, and repeat.  The number of saw handlings goes up dramatically when working on the MFT.  That extra capacity, if not needed, would be very tiring to heft in short order.

But as many others have said in other posts, try one and if you don't like it return it within 30 days.

 

[JohnDistai]

Jon,

Hence the need to build or buy the Sysport if you use the tools in shop.  I really feel for you if you are moving tools up and down stairs.

Has anyone got the impression that there is some sort of "unwritten" contest here regarding who can collect the most systainers?
There's a guy on eBay selling all of his systainers sans tools right now.