TS saw depth calibration

[tbellemare]

I think this has been mentioned before, but I was just thinking about the depth calibration mechanism on the TS plunge cut saws...

It would be nice if it had enough latitude to account for the guide rail depth so that one could zero the scale while on the guide rail.

Alternatively, and this should be a really easy way to eliminate the issue of additive depths, just reprint the depth scale so that zero is where 5mm is now.

Tom

 

[Michael Kellough]

That would be a nice feature Tom but if anyone tries it they'll find that the mm depth scale
does not exactly correspond to the actual blade depth, on or off the rail.
Christian pointed this out a few years ago (not the big guy).
It gets farther out of correspondence the deeper the setting.

It might be a nice project for someone to map the actual depths and then create a self adhesive scale
that could be applied to the saw. There could be a second scale that gave depths for off the rail cuts.

 

[Neill]

Tom,

I may be redundant here on what you already know.  I agree that it would be nice if you could zero the depth scale and then adjust for your depth of cut.

In a previous thread Rick Christopherson indicated that the depth of cut setting is dependant upon the type of material.  I did not understand that.  To me 3/4" is 3/4".  I bow to Rick's depth of knowledge.  I am just saying I do not understand it.  Unless he is talking about 3/4" ply which is of course slightly thinner than a 3/4"board.

I believe the rule of thumb, if you are using the guide rail and MFT, is 8mm (5mm allowed for the guide rail and 3mm for the table top).  So for example a 3/4" board would require a setting of 27mm (19mm+5mm+3mm).  Works for me.

Neill

 

[tbellemare]

I hadn't thought of that, Michael, but it makes sense.

If someone knew the 2-D dimensions of the plunge geometry involved, it wouldn't be too difficult to plot the scale using a CAD program. I've done similar (though I think more difficult) things in the past with bourdon tube pressure gauges.

Then, of course, the devil's in the detail.

The detents would be out of alignment with the scale. I can see why they compromised to allow for regular spacing on the teeth for detents.

I think I just talked myself back into merely offsetting the scale...

Neill:

You posted while I was writing the above. Though I agree with the rule of thumb, it also requires some adjustment for optimal cuts in different materials or with with different blades. I just think it would be more logical to zero the depth adjustment while the saw is on the guide rail since that's the majority of its usage. You could have a minus 5mm on the scale also for when you were running it with the edge guide or other off-rail activities.

Tom

Tom

 

[tbellemare]

Oh, also, because someone was talking about testing a new saw, I thought I'd try to get everyone thinking about what they think could be improved on the current version(s).

BTW: Nobody told me there was a new design in the works. I heard it here.

Tom

 

[woodguy7]

A way to stop the saw falling off the rail when at 45 degrees.  Definitely the depth scale set to allow for the thickness of the rail.  My saw has NEVER been used off the rail.

 

[joiner1970]

Oh, also, because someone was talking about testing a new saw, I thought I'd try to get everyone thinking about what they think could be improved on the current version(s).

BTW: Nobody told me there was a new design in the works. I heard it here.

Tom

I got the call the other day from Festool they never actually said there is a new design coming but its pretty obvious they are looking into it. I did say that a changeable depth gauge for on/off rail use would be handy but not really coz I use it off rail as I don't more so you can set it to the rail and not have to add 5mm every time. The other thing was a catch to lock the saw to the rail when at 45 to stop it falling off I didn't think this was that important common sense tells you not to leave the saw on the rail unattended  when at 45 degrees. They did mention a few ideas to me but I will keep them under my hat for now in case I'm breaking confidentiality  ;D [laughing]

 

[RONWEN]

I don't recall the post (Michael will) but there is a nice solution that someone came up with to hold the saw in place at 45 degress.

 

[Brice Burrell]

I did a big closet shelving unit out of melamine, readjusting the saw to make a scoring pass was a big hassle. So I'd love to see a scoring stop built in to the saw like the Makita has.

 

[RONWEN]

Brice, there are two things wrong with me -- one is my memory and I can't remember what the other thing is...  [smile]

Was that you that had the neat trick for keeping the TS saws from tipping over when set to bevel 45 degrees???

 

[tbellemare]

I think it was Chris, with the sweaters...

Tom

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

It was Craig and yes he does have quite the sweater collection.

 

[Brice Burrell]

It was Craig and yes he does have quite the sweater collection.

Yes, Darcy is right.

stop 027

Here's the thread, TS55 angle stop.

 

[peter halle]

Shane also posted some anti tilt solutions previously:

"Trying to get this thread back on-topic...  Here are two potential Festool solutions to the issue of the saw being prone to tipping when set at a 45.

The parallel guide.

The parallel guide (492 243) for the TS saws actually serves multiple purposes. First, it can be used to aid in making narrow rip cuts which was the accessory's primary design goal.  However, when the device is mounted to the saw upside down, the bottom side of the aluminum fence is flush with the base plate of the saw. In this mode it serves as an outrigger to keep the saws from tipping over when they are set for 45 degree bevel cutting.

So this new parallel guide is actually also a "table extension", which allows more stability when the saws are set over at extreme angles. It is two accessories in one.

The limit stop.

Another solution is to use the guide rail limit stop (491 582) which has a small "lip" that traps the saw's base preventing it from tipping over.  While this prevents tipping at the beginning and/or end of the cut, placing your left hand on the base of the saw furthest from the blade with slight downward pressure will aid during the actual cut itself.

I have also seen other solutions offered by members of the forum over the years that have their own merits."

 

[m88k]

The most annoying thing about the Festool depth issue to me is that Mafell has a solution on the market. I couldn't even find a local dealer, but on one of their product videos the user removes the depth-stop, flips it over, and re-attaches it. One way is on rail, the other is off. I also have a feeling they printed a linear chart onto a curved mechanism, creating the growing inaccuracy described above. With such easy solutions, I find Festool completely ignoring the problem ridiculous. I'd almost rather have no depth markings, except that I've become accustomed to certain numbers translating to certain depths.

I knew both of these annoyances before I purchased. Only reasons I didn't go Makita were the riving knife and, crazy as it sounds, dealer availability. None of my local Makita dealers knew what I was talking about, despite having posters picturing the track saw in their shops!

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

I really don't see what the big deal is with the depth scale.

If I don't know what to set it at, I just put the rail on the edge of the work piece, plunge it and set the stop.

Let's not over complicate things.