TS55 Blade Cleaning

maxpower10

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Joined
Nov 1, 2008
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What is the procedure to clean a blade from the TS55?  My most recent project actually had some tear out on the cross cuts of red oak plywood.  It was a little frustrating.  Figured maybe I'd clean the blade and try again.  Or maybe it was something else?  Does it make a difference that it was 3 degrees in my shop when I was cutting? [big grin]
 
You can use most any "blade cleaner" but that's not really necessary - Simple Green works perfectly fine. Stay away from "oven cleaners".

I would use a brass brush or regular scrub pad. Dry well and you can spray it with DW-40 and wipe off again.

You may want to also check your splinter-guard also; make sure it's clean and crisp.

  Bob
 
Once the splinter guard has been used for a certain depth of cut, is it no longer useful for a shallower depth?
 
The green one on the right side gets cut more the deeper you cut.

Tom
 
  Does it make a difference that it was 3 degrees in my shop when I was cutting? [big grin]

Given this a bit more thought - I wonder if that low temp caused the splinter-guard (on the rail) to ever so slightly contract enough to move away from full contact with the blade, resulting in a not so perfect cut?

  Bob
 
Bob Marino said:
  Does it make a difference that it was 3 degrees in my shop when I was cutting? [big grin]

Given this a bit more thought - I wonder if that low temp caused the splinter-guard (on the rail) to ever so slightly contract enough to move away from full contact with the blade, resulting in a not so perfect cut?

The influence of temperature on the size of plastics is really negligible.
 
The influence of temperature on the size of plastics is really negligible.
[/quote]

Alex,

True about plastics, but (duh!) I was still thinking rubber/rubbery (older) splinter-guards.

  Bob
 
Bob's nailed it as usual.  Simple Green works fine.  I dilute it 5 to 1 with water.  If the blade is really caked, you can put some SG in an aluminum foil pie pan (or any shallow container) and soak the blade for 15 minutes or so, then the crud comes off very easily.  A brass brush or an old toothbrush helps.

By the way, the guy I take my blades to for sharpening says about half the blades he gets from hobbyists just need cleaning, not sharpening.
 
I use the CMT citrus cleaner, it works really fast and is biodegradable. Don't leave it on too long, it can oxidize.
 
William Herrold said:
I use the CMT citrus cleaner, it works really fast and is biodegradable. Don't leave it on too long, it can oxidize.

I love this stuff too!  The product description webpage conflicts with your advice however:

"-do not rinse after cleaning. Formula 2050 provides protection from rust and corrosion. Keeps your table saw top rust free too;"

http://www.cmtutensili.com/show_items.asp?pars=PJJ~Formula%202050
 
Bill,
They may mean to leave a thin film and no puddles.  I wipe with a paper towell after scrubbing with an old toothbrush and don't rinse and have had no problems. 
 
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