TS55 Blade not at 90 degs...

[paul_david_thomas]

I had just cut two peices of minerelle with the intention of gluing them together to make one big bit.

One 2050 x 650 One 2050 x 450...

Well, I cut them both and offered them up... Bugger !! The cut through the 41mm board was not true...

I could not figure out why, I had a 2700 guide rail attached via a Gecko. The boards were supported by two MFT/3's...

Upon further investigation, I looked at my blade. When fully depressed and an engineer's square offered - it was not at 90 degs. It was a bit out...

After a bit of looking at the tool, their are two screws (ok I don't read manuals) that you can use to sort this problem out.

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So, after getting the blade to cut straight, I put the two work peices together and ran the blade down the middle to sort out the problem - all worked. Currently waiting for the glue to go off before sanding the thing down...

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My TS55 has worked just fine for 3 years, done 5 houses - so, this problem is not an issue... On normal 18mm stuff you would not really notice it and I don't do too many kitchens...
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[CharlesWilson]

And, if you had cut one of the pieces from the top, and the other from the bottom, you never would have noticed! They would have lined up.

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

It's no one's fault for it going off topic, except the OP.

He had to sneak that 4th picture in with a Wera ratchet and that centrotec set [scratch chin].

 

[Peter Hamilton-Scott]

PDT, in your photos you've got one that looks like a dismembered robot's head sitting on the countertop. What's his name and does he make tea? [smile]

Seriously, when I got my TS55 one of my first cuts was to test for squareness and I used a tip I read about my portable table saw. I cut thickish stock and turned one piece over and butted it up against the other. That doubles any angular error making it easier to see if the blade is out by a fraction. I'm happy to say, my TS55 left the factory absolutely square. My apologies if I'm trying to teach your proverbial grandmother how to suck eggs.

 

[peter halle]

This thread has been split to allow the discussion regarding the Centronic Bits to expand on its own.  Because posts can not be split into portions there are some references to the Centronic bits left here.  If you wish to look at the thread split off from this one it can be located here:
Split to Centronics Bit Set Discussion

Thank you for your understanding.

 

[manu31]

I cut thickish stock and turned one piece over and butted it up against the other. That doubles any angular error making it easier to see if the blade is out by a fraction. I'm happy to say, my TS55 left the factory absolutely square.

hi
thanks for the tip
but if the blade (ts55) is not square (it's my problem), do you have an easy method to set up the squareness

thanks

 

[peter halle]

You might want to check out the supplemental manual by Rick Christopherson at this link:  TS-55 Supplemental Manual.  I think page 11 is what you are looking for.

Peter

 

[manu31]

I think page 11 is what you are looking for.

yes thanks peter, i going to the shop to test the method p11

...and...
it's ok

but i think the height of the two screw must be equal (perhaps it's not if yourself have adujsted it before)

 

[Michael Kellough]

I think page 11 is what you are looking for.

yes thanks peter, i going to the shop to test the method p11

...and...
it's ok

but i think the height of the two screw must be equal (perhaps it's not if yourself have adujsted it before)

In theory they should be, but that depends on the base plate being a consistent thickness and the height of the heads of the screws being the same etc. Also, more importantly, there is a little slack in the trunnions of the the saw (the pivot blocks) so the best (most stable) arrangement is to set the height of the screws so that both screws "hit" simultaneously. If one screws hits first it can shift the saw slightly (trunnion slack) which can change the toe adjustment. It's best to let gravity keep the saw centered equally over both trunnions even as the saw rests on the two screws at 90 degrees.

Neel next to the edge of the table the saw is sitting on and use a flashlight (as well as touch and sound) to determine that both screws hit at the same time. and then, you have to do test cuts etc. to determine that it is cutting at true 90. It's worth all the effort because once you get that established you can use one of the digital inclinometers to set the saw to 1/10 degree accuracy. Then you can reliably make something with lots of compound miters.

The only 90s are on the bottoms of the vertical panels.
Ultralite MDF.

 

[manu31]

Neel next to the edge of the table the saw is sitting on and use a flashlight (as well as touch and sound) to determine that both screws hit at the same time. and then, you have to do test cuts etc. to determine that it is cutting at true 90. It's worth all the effort because once you get that established you can use one of the digital inclinometers to set the saw to 1/10 degree accuracy. Then you can reliably make something with lots of compound miters.

what is "Neel" ?
yes i agree with you
here what i made to avoid the slack : i unscrewed both screws, and after screwed until the toe didn't move