TS55 for Concrete Pavers?

[aCircle]

I'm sure this has been asked before but the search feature is failing me.

I'm pretty sure I could cut 2" concrete pavers with my TS55F, right? I haven't had much experience with the diamond blade, or cutting concrete like that, so I'm also trying to be sure it's both possible and will provide satisfactory results.

For example: if I get clean and crisp edges on the concrete, do I need to worry about chipping for pavers? They're going in the garden pathway so it's nothing super high-end... but I still don't want large chunks breaking off because I didn't bevel the edge somehow.

What would you all recommend?

 

[bobtskutter]

The guy on the New Yorkshire Workshop youtube channel uses diamond disks in his TS55 to cut porcelain slabs. Look for the videos of him laying a patio.
I'm pretty sure he's using diamond stone cutting blades.

Bob

 

[onocoffee]

Can the 55 be used to cut things like quartz and marble tile as well???

 

[tjbnwi]

You need a mesh diamond blade not the toothed one. Use dust extraction.

Pearl Abrasive P4 Turbo Mesh Blade for Porcelain and Granite

Discover the cutting excellence of P4 Turbo Mesh Blades, designed for fast, clean, and chip-free cuts on hard materials like porcelain and granite. Ideal for both wet and dry cutting.

tiletools.com

Tom

 

[Cheese]

You'll get a nice clean cut using a diamond blade however, it's going to be a long haul using a TS 55. The cement pavers I've cut were slightly thicker than 2-1/4". I used a 14" Milwaukee 6180 abrasive chop saw and replaced the abrasive blade with a segmented diamond blade. Even that combination was slow. Also consider that the TS 55 has a maximum cutting depth of 50 mm (1.9") on a guide rail and those pavers are close to 60 mm thick.
Further, the Festool PKD diamond blade is not the one to use if you're using the saw off of a guide rail. Any sideways pressure placed on the saw flexes the blade and yanks the brazed-on teeth off. This was a new PKD diamond blade before I attempted to cut 8" of clay flue liner which is only 3/4" thick.

 

[bobtskutter]

about 43:55 into this video

I believe these are the blades

Diamond Blades to fit 165mm x 20mm Plunge Saws - ATS Diamond Tools

Diamond blades designed to fit Festool, Makita, Dewalt, Mafell or similar circular saws to cut quartz, natural stone, porcelain, concrete and hard materials

www.atsdiamondtools.co.uk

no affiliation...make your own mind up about the potential damage to tools and yourself

Bob

 

[aCircle]

Interesting. How would I cut them if I were a contractor? Is there a specialty saw of some sort for this, or maybe I should rent one from ACE instead?

 

[Michael Kellough]

about 43:55 into this video

I believe these are the blades

Diamond Blades to fit 165mm x 20mm Plunge Saws - ATS Diamond Tools

Diamond blades designed to fit Festool, Makita, Dewalt, Mafell or similar circular saws to cut quartz, natural stone, porcelain, concrete and hard materials

www.atsdiamondtools.co.uk

no affiliation...make your own mind up about the potential damage to tools and yourself

Bob

Interesting notes at the blade website above…

“Whilst these blades are all re purposed to work in carpentry saws, the inherent design of a plunge saw means it cuts on the upstroke which is the opposite way around to a tile saw or how you would naturally use an angle grinder. This can lead to chipping in some products. If it’s a product you’ve not cut before there is an element of trial and error as to the best way to cut it, either full depth in one pass or two or three passes at a much lower depth of cut.

As a rule of thumb we generally suggest running the saw at its full speed which tends to be in the region of 6,000rpm and trying a full depth cut to start with. If that isn’t giving the desired finish then it’s time to try shallower cuts.”

 

[Cheese]

Interesting. How would I cut them if I were a contractor? Is there a specialty saw of some sort for this, or maybe I should rent one from ACE instead?

You'd normally use a wet saw which gives longer blade life because the blade is constantly cooled AND eliminates the dust because everything is wet. The dust elimination is a really big plus because when I was dry cutting the concrete pavers, I also set up a leaf blower to keep from breathing the dust and keep it away from my face. Dry cutting can be a real mess.

Just search for MK, Norton, Husqvarna, Ridgid...they all make wet cutters.

Rental is a good option if you can get everything laid out ahead of time to minimize rental costs. Menards, Home Depot, Ace are all good sources.

 

[P_K]

Rent a wet saw for pavers, most yards have them. Dry cutting 2 inches of masonry would probably smoke a TS55 and make an enormous mess.

 

[bobtskutter]

I've got one of these, pretty good dust extraction

4114S - Electric Disc Cutter

Product

www.makitauk.com

Bob

 

[tjbnwi]

If the ends will not be seen consider a brick set and brick hammer.

My best friend and uncle are brick layers, I’ve seen them snap bricks and pavers with just a brick hammer holding the brick in one hand. Straight square cuts.

Tom

 

[Coen]

I wouldn't want to cut that with my TS55. That abrasive dust will get everywhere and I wouldn't want to have that on my TS 55 nor on the rails.

Rent a wet saw for pavers, most yards have them. Dry cutting 2 inches of masonry would probably smoke a TS55 and make an enormous mess.

View attachment 381738

Yes, that ^^^

I've got one of these, pretty good dust extraction

4114S - Electric Disc Cutter

Product

www.makitauk.com

Bob

Or that. Or wall chaser with only 1 blade.

 

[P_K]

I wouldn't want to cut that with my TS55. That abrasive dust will get everywhere and I wouldn't want to have that on my TS 55 nor on the rails.

You sure don’t want concrete dust in your lungs either. Nasty stuff.

 

[Distinctive Interiors]

I certainly wouldn't use any of my Festool track saws to cut concrete slabs or pavers....!!!
You must be able to hire the proper tool to do the job, surely...?

 

[DashZero]

I like at these when they first came out, now I don't want to do tile floors again, so I haven't go tone. But looks interesting. https://www.tools4flooring.com/iq228cyclone-7-dry-cut-table-top-tile-saw.html

 

[rvieceli]

Most tool rental places including the big box home improvement stores will have a wet saw available. Around here a 10 inch blade saw with a bit more power runs around $70 for 24 hour or under 300 for 7 days.

Harbor Freight has a decent wet saw as well 10 inch blade is around 500 and the 7 inch blade is around 300. Use at your leisure and resell afterwards.

My experience has been that the bridge style where the table slides is orders of magnitude better than the table saw style.

Ron

 

[mino]

Per Coen notes.

I think what most people miss is that folks who use tracksaws for this use them as /relatively/ *cheap* *dedicated* tools just for the once-in-a-while job.

Almost no one does this with saws they use for their fine woodworking projects... Getting a used ATF 55 for this, on the other hand, not such a bad idea.

 

[rst]

I've used a 50-year-old Skil 8 1/4" worm saw for years. It will cut Anything!, wood, metal, control slots in concrete, bricks, widening a block opening for wider doorways, it's a beast . I bought a Metabo concrete saw some years past that is track guided for precision cutting (I do Not use my Festool tracks however, I have a Makita for that, when I bought the Metabo the tracks were not yet available). I bought Milwaukee's 18v wet saw and water tank last fall as I have a slew of 2" slate to cut this year.