TS55 for Concrete Pavers?

[six-point socket II]

Plunge saw, wrong tool. The Festool diamond blade, wrong accessory/consumable for pavers.

Theres is a vast variety of tools, from high end table style wet saws, to hand held wet concrete/demo saws, angle grinders with appropriate blades and shrouds … Most of that has been pointed out already. No need to do that to a plunge saw.

Makita has a dry “diamond cutter” good for up to 40mm cutting depth with a 125mm blade. (Model# 4100KB) Costs a fraction of a Festool plunge saw.

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[aCircle]

Point taken! Not the right move. As everyone has pointed out I haven't cut concrete before, so now I know. One of my big takeaways here is that it's also best to work up a design where I can minimize cutting at all.

Thanks everyone!

 

[Packard]

If you are just sizing the pavers (as I imagine you would be), then you (usually) can just score the surface and break it at the score line. See the video below.

Personally, I would buy a Harbor Freight angle grinder for this job and consider the tool as “disposable”. The dust can wreak malice on your tools. And note the demonstrator is using a face mask. The dust can wreak malice on your lungs too. And goggles (its the dust, you know).

In any case, I would not use a valued tool for this type of work. A cheap, corded tool that you don’t care about is the way to go.

 

[Cheese]

I've used a 50-year-old Skil 8 1/4" worm saw for years. It will cut Anything!, wood, metal, control slots in concrete, bricks, widening a block opening for wider doorways, it's a beast .

Picking up where RST left off... this is a Milwaukee 8-1/4" worm gear saw with a diamond blade that I used to cut New York Bluestone that varied from 1-1/2" to 2-1/4" thick. The Stihl blower was aimed at the blade as I was cutting to disperse the huge amount of dust that was being created. For dry cutting, the blower is mandatory.