Birdhunter
Member
- Joined
- Jun 16, 2012
- Messages
- 4,144
I looked at my height adjuster again and it appears that the flanges engage the plastic body behind the moving part and lock the adjuster into place.
Those edges that wrap around plastic should be snug to prevent lateral movement. They are bent at about 60 deg. and supposed to register against plastic block in the same position every time when locked. You could either bend them more or add a shim (self adhesive slick tape) on the inside.Kuffs said:I don't know where the flanges you mentioned are? Mine is effectively just a flat piece of plastic and the metal part is also flat, apart from where it wraps around the edges of the plastic. Have you got something different?
I don't own MFT or Festool rail support, so my advice was purely theoretical. Be careful not to overdo it, I will not be held responsible for any damage. [big grin] [poke] And it will void your warranty or whatever. [big grin]Kuffs said:Oh I see, sorry. I have considered putting them in a vice to perform a delicate adjustment [wink].
No. Just a confused user.Kuffs said:So Svar, thank you for your comments. Are you a Festool employee?
Good point. Perhaps glue a shim on either plastic or metal part.rst said:Also, putting the bracket in a vise to bend the side brackets is not a good idea. Trying to press the sides together would probably cause the bracket flat to bow without bending the sides much.
Kuffs said:Hi Birdhunter & grbmds, I have not got hold of the slop-stop. I am in the UK and it's not easy to get hold of here. However, I have today discovered what the problem is. I find it hard to believe others don't have this same issue. The front and rear brackets that the guide rail hinges, and at the front of the table sits on, have an enormous amount of play in them when they are unlocked to adjust the rail height. if you can imagine hinging the guide rail out of the way so that it's not on the front adjustment bracket, then unlocking the front bracket as though you are going to adjust it's height. Then lift the metal part of the bracket to its highest point and without locking it in place, rock the bracket from side to side. On mine, the bracket moves approximately 4-5mm side to side and is lockable in at any point between these measurements. when I first set the table up, I had the track sitting right down on the MDF top to cut the splinter guard for the first time. This means I also produced a kerf in the MDF which registered perfectly with the splinter guard. Once I lifted the track up to make some test cuts, the movement in the front and rear brackets must have occurred and unknowingly, I locked that movement into position and made the cuts. The higher the adjusters are raised the more pronounced the problem gets. I would definitely be interested in whether or not you have this same movement in your adjustment brackets? Thank you for persisting with this problem, I really appreciate your help.