TS55 or TSC55? or Makita Sp6000J

squall_line said:
Festool doesn't have the "bench depth" in their lineup to justify buying a single cordless tool over a corded one merely for the battery platform, IMHO.
I wasn’t so much suggesting that you buy specifically for the battery platform - just pointing out that if you have the batteries, that moves the goalposts slightly if you’re deciding between a corded and cordless version of a Festool tool in the future.

And I’m not making a Festool specific argument. If someone has multiple batteries from any manufacturer, it makes sense to include cordless tools from that range in any decision, as some of the expense has already been covered.

It’s more a point about not discounting cordless just because you usually use dust extraction and cordless tools are more expensive.
 
mrB said:
I've owned two Makita Sp6000Js
They're great with one real issue!! The adjusters on the base plate to fine tune the saw's grip on the rail come loose EVERY SINGLE DAY of use.
Could that be fixed by adding some kind of friction washer somewhere? Festool does have a rubber part inside the adjuster for better friction.
 
Crazyraceguy said:
Bertotti said:
My ts55 works great. Cord and all and one other thing to think about is if you're dragging around the hose for the vac then you still aren't really cordless the hose is just a big cord.
This was my reasoning behind the corded version. I always have mine connected o the CT.
I mostly cut sheetgoods with the TS55 and occasionally rip some barn wood. For thicker stock, the TS75 does the job. It has never felt underpowered.
Seconded.
Reason I went TSC is I am a hobby user, so the more versatile a tool, the better.
In shop use I put up with the weight. Put up, not enjoy it.
Ah, and the annoyance that the normal D27 has the cord embedded for sanding and toher tools which hang from it using the TSC ... so I rather switch hoses when using the TSC these days.

But there are cases when as a hobby user I (abuse) use it in place/setting with no power and those cases make it well worth it. E.g. it is indispensable for breaking sheet goods at the lumber yard. /their formatting saws are mostly not precise-enough so would have to re-cut everything otherwise/

But all use cases why I love the TSC are hobby-related as a pro would have better/dedicated tools for them or the would not apply. or would get both a TSC -and- a TS for cutting station use.
 
Sorry for the late response.  I reached the same point as you did in January 2021. I had experience with a number of “track” systems but was wanting more.

I made my own “tracks” using hardboard and a half inch straight edge. It work surprisingly well and cost really nothing. But it wasn’t very easy to use, took time to setup and clamp, slipped a lot, didn’t make really good “cabinet-grade” cuts and created a lot of dust.

I graduated to the TruTrac system, that used their own tracks or rails, along with a special adapter plate that can attach to any circular saw. It was a good system and met my initial needs. It didn’t slip, made decent cuts on the splinter guard side, breaking down plywood was much easier (didn’t have to haul the plywood to the TS), and 10 years ago it was a low cost entry into track systems. I eventually attached it to a cordless 7 ¼ saw and I was mobile. Drawbacks for me were the cuts were still abit rough, lots of saw marks along the cut edge and I always had to cut outside year round because the amount of dust thrown in the shop was tremendous. There was just no way to control the dust. I felt more in control and safer making long cuts in plywood but kick back still happened.

I then was able to use some other track systems (Wen, Dewalt and Makita) and really liked them better. The cuts were better under the splinter guard and along the cut edge, dust collection was much better. I started doing the research and decided on the corded Festool TS 55 F or Makita SP6000J. Both tools got great reviews on their cuts and their performance. They seemed really equal. I ultimately decided on the Festool for the following reasons;

- Makita was focused toward the construction site while Festool was focused toward the cabinet/shop market,
- Festool had much more accessories,
- Festool rails were adaptable to other tools (Domino, routers) with a system approach
- Festool dust control was better.

I tried buying a Festool TS 55 F from January to April 2021 but none were available. Then the TSC KEB came out. I really didn’t want another battery system, and I planned to only use it in my shop. But all reports were that it would be late summer before the corded TS 55 F was available. I then heard about the corded TS 55 REB with the thinner blades, but that wasn’t being sold anywhere either.  I tested the TSC 55 KEB in June 2021, really liked it and bought it. I have been very satisfied with it and highly recommend the TSC 55 KEB.

The saw with batteries isnt at all too heavy and is well balanced, the power is really very good, the thinner blade glides through the wood, the saw/blade combo has plenty of power, and battery life is great. The cut is very good and beyond expectation; splinter free on both sides of the cut and the edge cut is almost perfectly smooth. The dust collection is very good, not perfect, but way better than all the other systems Ive used. Ive used it with the CT-26 Dust Extractor, through a Dust Deputy, through a Bucket Head and with a shop vac all with very good results. The good dust collection is probably related to a well-designed saw, the green splinter guard, good track and the thinner blade.

One thing that can’t be empathized enough is how safe the Festool saw system is; the plunge mechanism is very smooth and controlled, rails and anti slip pads work really well holding the work piece with lots of clamping options, the saw with the kickback sensor, and the Limit Stops all make use really safe.

The surprise – I love the cordless saw. Being untethered in the shop is really nice, and being able to carry the saw outside, or to a jobsite has been incredibly convenient.  And dust collection with the dust bag is really good.

I could not be happier with this saw. In fact, I have been so happy with the TSC 55 KEB that I bought the HKC 55 last week. Now I have four batteries to run both saws. And no surprise, the HKC is really nice to use with the FSV rail. But that’s another review.

To sum it up, if you just want a Track Saw to break down sheet goods, then a number of saws will do this very well. I have used the Dewalt and Makita, and would have been satisfied with both for that purpose.

I opted for the Festool because it had very good dust collection, a very good cut quality, lots of accessories, a system of tools that use the rails and the system is focused on safety.
 
Svar said:
mrB said:
I've owned two Makita Sp6000Js
They're great with one real issue!! The adjusters on the base plate to fine tune the saw's grip on the rail come loose EVERY SINGLE DAY of use.
Could that be fixed by adding some kind of friction washer somewhere? Festool does have a rubber part inside the adjuster for better friction.

Not sure. This conversation happened a few years back when a shipwright on the forum bought two of the saws. I think he tried adding a rubber washer but returned both saws a week later as the issue couldn’t be rectified. .
 
Spandex said:
Bertotti said:
I have been using my corded version to rip longboards and sheet good a lot recently. I use a generator if I am not near an outlet. I am firmly set against a consumable on a tool I use a lot. I have some battery drills but they are just safer when going up and down ladders but I still hate that I need to spend as much on a battery as I do a tool. If that doesn't bother you no worries but batteries do not last forever and is a constant irritation to me. My ts55 works great. Cord and all and one other thing to think about is if you're dragging around the hose for the vac then you still aren't really cordless the hose is just a big cord.
Every tool has consumables (blades, bits, etc), so I think it really comes down to their cost and how often they need to be replaced. Do batteries really need replacing that often?

The reason I eventually want to swap my TS for a TSC is so I have the option of using it completely cordless with the bag. Yes, most of the time it will have a hose connected, which means the cordless functionality isn’t being used (ignoring the power increase), but if I want to use it without a cord and without a hose, I can. That’s not an option with the TS.

But I agree that if you plan to use a TSC exactly like you’d use a TS, at all times, you might as well just have a TS.

A fine reason, for me if indoors I am always connected to the ct. If outdoors I don't care if it is connected and don't need the bag. Saw dust isn't hurting the ground any. And on surfaces I can sweep up that need it I do.
 
Svar said:
mrB said:
I've owned two Makita Sp6000Js
They're great with one real issue!! The adjusters on the base plate to fine tune the saw's grip on the rail come loose EVERY SINGLE DAY of use.
Could that be fixed by adding some kind of friction washer somewhere? Festool does have a rubber part inside the adjuster for better friction.
That problem can be mitigated, but cannot be solved. Notice he said every single day - not every single cut.

The cams on the Makitas are in direct contact with the rail - so you can, in theory, prevent them to rotate. But, that will prevent your ability to adjust. And adjust you need, as the cams material is "consumed" as the saw slides on the rail.

Festool has solved this by having plastic sliders which the cams push. So the cams do not come in contact with the rail which means more accuracy, less friction due to a bigger contact surface and the cams are pretty much "for life". I believe this was introduced with the TS55 about a decade or so ago and is still under patent protection. I expect Makita to switch to the cams-do-not-contact-rail in 5 years or so, once the patents expire.

But still, for hobby use this is really just a nuisance. The Makita track saws are good saws and make great cuts. Festool does win on ergonomy and dust collection. Depends how much one values those aspects.

With the FS/2 rails are physically more precise and have better anti-slip pads. You can not compensate for the lack of precision once a rail is not straight-enough. For that reason I would not recommend a hobby user to save on the rails. Save on the saw, if you must.

With a cheaper saw, you need to fiddle more, you need to put up with more dust, your cuts will not be as smooth. But you can still get perfectly straight cut even from a $99 cheap Chinese track saw. As straight as your rail is.
But with a non-straight rail, no matter the saw, the cut will not be straight. That is OK for short cuts, asd the deviation tend to be small in the absolute. But can become a problem once in the 6' plus territory. IMO is just not worth the trouble for a hobby user to keep investigating if your technique is wrong or the rail is bad - having no straight edge to reference against. While a pro will know what he is doing so can compensate with assembly/design approach etc. this can be totally frustrating for a novice or a hobby user.
 
mino said:
The cams on the Makitas are in direct contact with the rail - so you can, in theory, prevent them to rotate. But, that will prevent your ability to adjust. And adjust you need, as the cams material is "consumed" as the saw slides on the rail.

Festool has solved this by having plastic sliders which the cams push. So the cams do not come in contact with the rail which means more accuracy, less friction due to a bigger contact surface and the cams are pretty much "for life". I believe this was introduced with the TS55 about a decade or so ago and is still under patent protection. I expect Makita to switch to the cams-do-not-contact-rail in 5 years or so, once the patents expire.

Apparently they are respecting their own patents (or are unwilling to update another tool) because the TS75 suffers from this same problem. The cam is in direct contact with the rail, with the added bonus of being attached by an E-clip, so you cannot adjust the tension of the cam.
The cams are also on the leading edge of the pivot point, so they actually tighten/jamb, rather tan getting loose. For the most part, a little wax solves this, but occasionally it still happens.
 
mino said:
Svar said:
mrB said:
I've owned two Makita Sp6000Js
They're great with one real issue!! The adjusters on the base plate to fine tune the saw's grip on the rail come loose EVERY SINGLE DAY of use.
Could that be fixed by adding some kind of friction washer somewhere? Festool does have a rubber part inside the adjuster for better friction.
That problem can be mitigated, but cannot be solved. Notice he said every single day - not every single cut.
The cams on the Makitas are in direct contact with the rail - so you can, in theory, prevent them to rotate. But, that will prevent your ability to adjust. And adjust you need, as the cams material is "consumed" as the saw slides on the rail.
Festool has solved this by having plastic sliders which the cams push. So the cams do not come in contact with the rail which means more accuracy, less friction due to a bigger contact surface and the cams are pretty much "for life".
On my 10 year old TS75 cams are attached with screws and have direct contact with rail. They are easy to adjust but never come loose/tight on their own. I barely ever need to adjust them.
I actually prefer those to plastic sliders on my newer TS55. While theoretically superior, new design always feels "spongy", i.e. by the time you get rid of side to side wobble, forward friction is already too great. Same with Mafell design.
 
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