TS55 REQ Squaring Blade

[rinconmike]

My TS 55 (575387) I got a few months ago blade is not square to the plate.  Using a machinist square, I checked it when I first got it and thought it was square.  I plunged the saw all the way down and checked the blade with the square.

However, I am noticing on larger plywood cuts for some cubbies we are doing when connecting with pocket screws one piece to the other it is not square.  I then put the TS55 on my table saw and locked the blade all the way down.  Using a Wixey Digital Angle Gauge is it is 89.5 degrees.  I also closely checked the 3/4" plywood cut with a square and can see that it is out.

I searched the web and the group and I found information on squaring an older model with two screws.  This is seen in this video at around 5:47.
=519s

There is also a link to this manual that shows the technique with cutting two pieces to see if it is square and I will try.
https://service.festoolusa.com/media/pdf/TS_55_EQ_US.pdf

However, I do not see anything in the US Service manual that shows how to adjust my saw.  I also found a supplemental manual on the US Site
https://www.festoolusa.com/-/media/...nuals/festool-ts55req-supplemental-manual.pdf

This also does not comment on squaring up the blade.

I did find this video.  Is it just a matter of turning the screw shown at 6:26 (clip below)?


thanks,

Mike

 

[Hollatime]

My TS 55 (575387) I got a few months ago blade is not square to the plate.  Using a machinist square, I checked it when I first got it and thought it was square.  I plunged the saw all the way down and checked the blade with the square.

However, I am noticing on larger plywood cuts for some cubbies we are doing when connecting with pocket screws one piece to the other it is not square.  I then put the TS55 on my table saw and locked the blade all the way down.  Using a Wixey Digital Angle Gauge is it is 89.5 degrees.  I also closely checked the 3/4" plywood cut with a square and can see that it is out.

I searched the web and the group and I found information on squaring an older model with two screws.  This is seen in this video at around 5:47.
=519s

There is also a link to this manual that shows the technique with cutting two pieces to see if it is square and I will try.
https://service.festoolusa.com/media/pdf/TS_55_EQ_US.pdf

However, I do not see anything in the US Service manual that shows how to adjust my saw.  I also found a supplemental manual on the US Site
https://www.festoolusa.com/-/media/...nuals/festool-ts55req-supplemental-manual.pdf

This also does not comment on squaring up the blade.

I did find this video.  Is it just a matter of turning the screw shown at 6:26 (clip below)?


thanks,

Mike

Yes.

I went through the same ordeal recently. 2mm Allen key. Video linked below shows the procedure though I noticed you do not have to unlock the bevel settings for the adjustment.

I would also keep an eye on it and see if it drifts back, that’s what mine does. I’m not sure why, but after resetting it a few times both with the bevel locks engaged/open it still seems to end up about .5 degrees out as well. Even clicked through the -1 setting and bounced it on/off the 0 stop.


Edit: just realized that’s the same video you mentioned. Gl hopefully yours stays put

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[ryanjg117]

Have you verified your guide rails for straightness? I have actually done through this process with a TS55 and 75, but only because I wanted to make sure both saws were perfectly cutting at the same distance from the guide rail so that my splinterguards wouldn't get chewed up. I believe it's much more common to have bent guide rails rather than a track saw that cuts out of square. Even if it is cutting slightly out of square, that wouldn't typically cause fitment issues on glue-up since the saw blade, even if skewed, it still going to cut where the guide rail tells it to.

Don't assume your guide rails are straight. The problem is, most of us don't have a tool to verify that and the Starrett 72" straightedge is $600+ USD.

 

[Hollatime]

I’ve tried some methods but agree just no having a long enough straight edge makes it difficult to have confidence in my readings.

This has given me nightmares recently and after reading this am a little worried now maybe something else is off. I have tried 3 different rails fwiw.

Basically never get a square cross cut, and believe it could be due to the tounge on the square not referencing properly when checking, unsure. Also thought perhaps my guide rail square was not registering properly due to this at times when using a parallel guide setup.

Believe if I ripped one edge and flipped the board/cut parallel edge it would end up presenting the issue that after a cross cut, square is dead on from one edge yet not the other. I assumed this was a sign the edges were not parallel, and with the bevel present, depending on orientation of the board you felt different things when stacking them up/flipping them over etc.

Tapatalk being iffy about photos sohttps://imgur.com/a/mBn0COM

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[Svar]

[member=72616]rinconmike[/member]
The 0/45 bevel adjustment is on the front (green plastic thingy as per video above) AND on the back trunnion.  See this post by Tom Bellemare:https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/.../festool-ts55-bevel-stop/msg319069/#msg319069
In fact, the back is more important. The front adjustment was an afterthought added to later models of REQ.

Also, I would not check for square relative to the base. Just cut something, measure the results and adjust accordingly. Guide rail has spongy strips on the bottom, and the base of the saw is not quite flat. What you measure with the saw sitting on the bench is not what you get actually cutting something.

 

[Hollatime]

[member=72616]rinconmike[/member]
The 0/45 bevel adjustment is on the front (green plastic thingy as per video above) AND on the back trunnion.  See this post by Tom Bellemare:https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/.../festool-ts55-bevel-stop/msg319069/#msg319069
In fact, the back is more important. The front adjustment was an afterthought added to later models of REQ.

Also, I would not check for square relative to the base. Just cut something, measure the results and adjust accordingly. Guide rail has spongy strips on the bottom, and the base of the saw is not quite flat. What you measure with the saw sitting on the bench is not what you get actually cutting something.

I think this could actually be the issue. I’ve noticed my cursor doesn’t sit quite at zero but assumed just not aligned/non issue.

Starting the procedure linked, I noticed the 2mm screw seems to be related to the -1 degree setting. Engaging the -1 degree slips the set screw off a little ledge and returning the saw pops it back onto the ledge.

After loosing the t25 screws and attempting to figure out what Tom mentioned “spanning the bracket” and where to stick my screwdriver, realized that likely due to my adjustment of that set screw, I was no longer able to lock the -1 degree setting back. May be related to the back t25 screws now being loose, but would certainly make sense why my saw “drifts” back to the same slight error displayed in the cursor.

Will update later tonight, thank you @Svar!

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[rinconmike]

[member=72616]rinconmike[/member]
The 0/45 bevel adjustment is on the front (green plastic thingy as per video above) AND on the back trunnion.  See this post by Tom Bellemare:https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/.../festool-ts55-bevel-stop/msg319069/#msg319069
In fact, the back is more important. The front adjustment was an afterthought added to later models of REQ.

Thanks.  I took the plate off, loosened the two bevel lock plastic wing nuts and adjusted the 2mm allen screw to get to zero using the wixey.  I then tightened the two wing nuts.  I did not adjust the bevel indicator (leaving at 90 and not doing any other angle for now).  I cut a piece of 3/4" baltic birch plywood and it is more square attaching perpendicular than before.  I need to get a piece of wood to try the cut and flipping piece.  I cannot see any issues with the plywood when trying that.

I do not see what adjusting the two T25 torx screws do or why adjusting the bracket helps linked in the above post 4.  Can anyone explain further.

I did not adjust the bevel indicator since I just need it for 90 degrees for now and not moving it off that.  I guess eventualy I should figure that out.

thanks,

Mike

 

[Frank-Jan]

...
I do not see what adjusting the two T25 torx screws do or why adjusting the bracket helps linked in the above post 4.  Can anyone explain further.
...

That bracket is the rear bevel stop, if that is adjusted correctly you can return your saw to square by tilting it against the stop and then tightening the plastic wingnuts (always the rear one first) without repeating the squaring procedure everytime you change the bevel on your saw.

Peter Parfitt's video is about a previous model ts55 (without the R), on that model the 0° setting was the limit, so it didn't need the bracket or the green override buttons to get to the minus 1° setting, and there were just 2 grubscrews and a much easier calibration.

Here's another thread with some pictures, (allthough Tom Bellamere mentioned the flathead screwdriver, I read over it the first time I was adjusting my saw, and it took me a while to figure it out)
link

 

[Svar]

Not much to add to what Frank-Jan said. And the explanation in the link he provided is excellent. T25 torx and bracket have exactly the same function as front green plastic part with a black set screw. Except it's on the rare trunnion and, being right next to the pivot hinge, carries more load. Earlier models of REQ did not even have the front adjuster.

 

[rinconmike]

When checking the angle, should I have the saw on a track?

If I put the saw on the table saw not on the track, I have the blade at 90.0 with the wixey and it looks square with a machinist square.  If I put the track on the table saw and the TS55 on the track, the wixey is at 90.1 and i see a tiny gap with the square.  And if I use the track, do I zero the wixey on the track or the table? [SEE EDIT BELOW]

I still have not messed with the rear bevel stop screws.  Right now I just want to get it to 90 and lock it in with the wing nuts.  Once locked it, I do not plan on changing it for a project I am working on.

Edit: I just went and check the angle again on with the saw on the track on the table saw.  If I place a little pressure on the left side of the saw base plate on the track, the reading is 90.0 degrees and looks better with the square with the square (hair gap towards bottom part of blade and square).  Also, the last setting I made was with cutting a 1.5" piece of wood (I previously laminated two 3/4" poplar) and doing the flip test.  I did this 4 times last night making one 1/4 and two 1/8 turns of the from 2mm screw.  I need to get some more wood and test again.

 

[Jerry Ostashevskyi]

I have an older TS75 and have been adjusting it with similar magnetic base angle gauge. What I have added was a blue thread lock on screws. It prevents them from loosening from vibration and blade stays true. I check it again only when taking blade off for cleaning.

Jerry

 

[Michael Kellough]

What Svar said,

“ Also, I would not check for square relative to the base. Just cut something, measure the results and adjust accordingly. Guide rail has spongy strips on the bottom, and the base of the saw is not quite flat. What you measure with the saw sitting on the bench is not what you get actually cutting something.”

 

[Jerry Ostashevskyi]

What Svar said,

“ Also, I would not check for square relative to the base. Just cut something, measure the results and adjust accordingly. Guide rail has spongy strips on the bottom, and the base of the saw is not quite flat. What you measure with the saw sitting on the bench is not what you get actually cutting something.”

Fully agree. Forgot to mention, I do calibration while my saw is sitting on the guide rail that I use most of the time (FS 1080/2).

1). Check surface for flatness and set zero on angle gauge.
2). Place a piece of ply roughly with a side more or less equal to the width of the guide rail (this will guarantee that guide rail will be in contact only with the part of the surface that you have checked for flatness and set zero on while end will be hanging in the air)
3). Place guide rail with track saw on that piece of ply.
4). Adjust screws until blade gets 90 (per my recommendation above, remove screws and apply blue threadlock if you worry them get loose).
5). Rip some ply and check.