TS55 vs. TS75

[WickedShamrock]

First time posting here so be gentle.  I love all things green and am about to pull the trigger on a track saw.  I do a lot of personal woodworking both plugged and unplugged.  I am considering both the TS 55 and the TS 75.  Other than depth capacity, are there any other pros or cons I should consider in my decision? 

 

[chrisrosenb]

Welcome.

It depends on what you will be cutting. I have both the the TS55 & TS75.
I am guessing that I use the TS55 at least 90% of the time.
Most of my cuts are in 1" thick or less material. If I am ripping any wood over 1" thick, I use the TS75. I also use the TS75 when I straight line rip 4/4 and up hardwood lumber.
The TS55 will rip thicker material with a rip blade.
The TS55 is smaller & lighter. The TS75 is bigger, heaver & has more power. I suggest putting your hands on both saws before purchasing. 

 

[SoonerFan]

First time posting here so be gentle.  I love all things green and am about to pull the trigger on a track saw.  I do a lot of personal woodworking both plugged and unplugged.  I am considering both the TS 55 and the TS 75.  Other than depth capacity, are there any other pros or cons I should consider in my decision?

If you want cordless for the unplugged work the TSC55 is a good choice.

I have corded version for both the TS55 and the TS75 because cordless was not available when I purchased by TS55.  If I was starting over I would go with the TSC55 and the TS75. 

As for the differences....the TS75 has lots more power which I find very helpful when working with 5/4 and thicker hardwoods.  It is also heavier.  I use the TS55 more often and find it much better for the MFT/3.

If you only want one....I would choose the TS55 if you are mostly sheet goods.  If you do lots of thicker hardwoods I would choose the TS75

 

[rmhinden]

Two other points to consider, especially if you are getting both.  I have both.

The TS75 requires a longer guide rail for the same length cut because the saw is bigger.  Think about that when deciding which rails to purchase.

With both, you need to align them to be able to use the same guide rail.  The supplemental manual for the TS55 has good instructions on page 22
https://www.festoolusa.com/-/media/...nuals/festool-ts55req-supplemental-manual.pdf

 

[bwehman]

I have both too, not bragging, just for context.

I bought the 55 first then added the 75. If you had to buy one, the 75 will do everything the 55 can in terms of cut capacity, obviously, with the trade-off being weight. So if you're OK wielding a larger saw, the 75 will do what only the 75 can do AND what the 55 can do. Make sense?

 

[grbmds]

If you are going to use the saw on a table or the MFT I would suggest getting the TS55. I had the opportunity to try the TS75 on the MFT and found that, for me, the extra weight was uncomfortable and the width of cut on the table was reduced. It's not that the 75 is really that heavy, it's just the weight and height of the table combined make it inconvenient and uncomfortable. If you are going to use it on a table you made at a lower height, I'd say the 75 would work just fine and be more versatile for thicker woods.

Just as an aside, I found the cut on the TS55 cleaner with the supplied blade. It may be possible to get a TS75 blade with more teeth to upgrade the cut.

 

[lwoirhaye]

I'd want a TS75 for making furniture or ripping thicker hardwoods.  The TS55 saws are just not the most terrific tools for precision cuts in thicker solid wood.  I doubt either saw can match a tight radial arm saw or good table saw for precision crosscutting.  Even with a joinery tool like the Domino your crosscuts have to be exact enough in 2 dimensions to make a good looking joint.  Hand planing end grain may be an option but using planes is a skill set that takes some time to develop, not to mention investment in planes and sharpening gear.

It depends how fine you want your work to be.  I've been at this awhile and become real picky when making furniture joints.  For some other types a work I'll use a less perfectionist approach just to save time.

I really like the HK and use a finishing blade on it.  Dust extraction is worse than the TS saws but it's not terrible, just not as good.  Indoors in a client's house I would prefer the best dust extraction but in my shop or outside I prefer the way the blade on the HK locks in the plunged position.  The FSK rail is whiz-bang for sure but you don't need it unless you're really aiming to do angled cuts fast like in construction work.

If I had the money burning a hole in my pocket and didn't want to overspend but wanted to be well-equipped I'd get the TS75, the HKC, skip the FSK rail and buy a Makita 55" rail or two and a TSO square (it's truly awesome), plus a 75" Festool rail for the TS75.  The really long rails are great but cumbersome to move around (Makita is cheaper but straight long ones can be hard to come by). 

I modified an EZsmart rip guide to fit the HK and rip to 25" wide.  Sure a 9-10' rail has advantages but it's an investment and for a lot of plywood cuts the edge guide is accurate enough and certainly easier to move around and less prone to getting damaged.

I've bought and sold a lot of tools over the years, tried out a lot of different machine formats and ways of doing things.  Collecting tools is fun,  but if I had to start over from scratch and had like 5k to spend and wanted Festool I would buy the stuff I've described and spend other types of tools.  I'd probably build something like a Paulk workbench if I had the space instead of using an MFT.  If I were only buying the one saw and could have a stationary machine for critical crosscuts and joinery I'd buy the HK, probably the corded version.  With the way the plunge locks I would likely save myself the embarrassment of cutting into the front rail of an MFT, something a lot of Festool users have done with the TS saws I'll bet.

 

[ChuckM]

You did not say why you want both saws. If only one is to be had, the TS75, 4 pounds heavier, would be my choice because most of the sawing is done by pushing the saw along the track, not in a lifted position. The extra cutting capacity is the advantage, but the price isn't.

Some people argue that using the Domino Joiner XL is as easy as the DF500 even though their weight difference is also close to 4 pounds, and that I disagree with, because you don't use a DJ by sliding it along a guided track. For every mortise cut, you have to lift and position the joiner. I have used both the XL and DF500, before I wrote the above, of course.

 

[WickedShamrock]

Thank you all for the feedback. One correction, I was not looking to buy both, just been drooling over them and am undecided.  For context I do a fair amount of work with 6/4 and 8/4.  I am also a big guy at 6'3" and 250lbs., so weight and size are not an issue.  Iwoirhaye - I actually love hand planing, it is a great workout and just something about connecting with the wood on that level is relaxing and rewarding.  I invariably hand plane my joints before using the Domino as I have the full range from #7's on down to a #1.  I think I will go with the 75 as the board thickness is moving me in that direction and I will definitely take track length into account.  Again, thank you all. I have many Festool pieces and was just looking to add to the collection as I received an unexpected additional bonus at work.  The wife and daughter have many projects they want done.  My motto is "New Project, New Tool!"

 

[Jaybolishes]

If getting one, 75 hands down. The 55 is so underpowered and extra depth capacity is always a bonus to have.

 

[Farming_Sawyer]

I too am considering the ts75.  But I also agree that the hk55 is the saw to get if you do more than just break down sheet materials in a shop. This week alone, on a job, I broke down 30 sheets of 3/4 blondewood into 10 & 6" strips. The Hk55 with a 32 tooth blade had next to no tear  out. These strips weren't critical, but it was nice to know without the front splinter guard, off the ts saws it worked well. I then switched to the fsk rail to cross cut strips and framing materials. The dust collection is about 85%. Which is great for so versatile a saw.
I've added the shadow gap fence made for the ts55 to help with dust collection and that has made a huge difference in doors. The Hk55 also helped me make a quick site built cabinet. Normally I would have used a table saw, a compound miter saw and a skill saw to do all of this and come out with marginal results after quite a bit of time and a lot of clean up. I built the cabinet in the house with the homeowner watching, making changes on the fly and brushing the wall to see how much sawdust was there.... Cannot saw enough about it as an option....

 

[waho6o9]

I'd get the TS75 with a Festool Panther rip blade, any rails that are purchased should have holes
in them for the LR 32 system.

Purchase the longer rails as the TS 75 needs more room.

Welcome to the FOG!

 

[ScotF]

Thank you all for the feedback. One correction, I was not looking to buy both, just been drooling over them and am undecided.  For context I do a fair amount of work with 6/4 and 8/4.  I am also a big guy at 6'3" and 250lbs., so weight and size are not an issue.  Iwoirhaye - I actually love hand planing, it is a great workout and just something about connecting with the wood on that level is relaxing and rewarding.  I invariably hand plane my joints before using the Domino as I have the full range from #7's on down to a #1.  I think I will go with the 75 as the board thickness is moving me in that direction and I will definitely take track length into account.  Again, thank you all. I have many Festool pieces and was just looking to add to the collection as I received an unexpected additional bonus at work.  The wife and daughter have many projects they want done.  My motto is "New Project, New Tool!"

I think you will be happy with this choice. It was my first Festool and my only tracksaw for several years. I have since added a TSC55 and the HK and HKC saws to my arsenal. I too really like the HK style and use those saws for most cuts in solid wood. The TS75 still comes out for heavier rips and straightlining thicker hardwoods and it is a great saw to have. Enjoy!

 

[ben_r_]

For me personally, since I rarely break down anything thinker than 3/4" the TS 55 has been perfect. I played with the TS 75 a few times in stores and to me it just seemed way too bulky and heavy! So far I havent regretted my choice.

 

[Michael Kellough]

I started with an ATF 55. Little later bought an old  Festo AT 65. When we learned about the TS 75 and that it’s weight was the same as the old 65 I knew it was just a matter of time till I bought one of them (also used).

 

[infer]

Honestly I dont get the “TS75 is too heavy”. I am not an especially big guy but find the TS75 very easy to handle. Granted if you rip more than 30-40 sheets a day you will get arm fatique but who rips so much with a railsaw!? If you are space limited a nice combo is a Bosch GKS12-26 to rip or crosscut sheets vertically with a Festool rail and a TS75 in a CMS to finish the job.

 

[WickedShamrock]

Thank you all, I am going to grab the TS75.  Good point about the perforated rails.  Wonder why Festool just doesn't make them all universal like that?  But then again, it is Festool!

 

[RKA]

One point of clarification, the LR32 rails are available in 55 and 95".  The non-perforated rail normally shipped with the TS75 is 75".  For your use you might find that the 55 is too short and the 95 is too long, leaving you with the non-perforated 75.  Get the rail that fits your needs and workflow.  If one of the perforated options works, great. 

 

[Gregor]

One point of clarification, the LR32 rails are available in 55 and 95".  The non-perforated rail normally shipped with the TS75 is 75".  For your use you might find that the 55 is too short and the 95 is too long, leaving you with the non-perforated 75.  Get the rail that fits your needs and workflow.  If one of the perforated options works, great.

A TS 75 can quickly and cleanly reduce the size of a too long rail.

 

[ChuckM]

For me personally, since I rarely break down anything thinker than 3/4" the TS 55 has been perfect. I played with the TS 75 a few times in stores and to me it just seemed way too bulky and heavy! So far I havent regretted my choice.

I totally agree that one should choose a tool that already meets all of one's cutting needs. There is no reason to get a TS75 which is heavier and more expensive, just because it cuts deeper when that extra depth of cut is never needed. I sold my TS75 after realizing that I only used it twice over a 12-month period. It was not worth holding onto it for the "just-in-case" cutting occasions. I used part of the sales proceed to get an accessory for my tablesaw so I can handle long and wide boards with ease.