Ts55R and Carvex 420 a backward step?

[Troll]

I owned the original TS55 in the UK when it came out in 2003, it revolutionised the way I worked.  When the TS55R came out I upgraded and sold on the still formidable TS55. The more I've used the new model TS55R the more I think it's engineered to a lesser standard.  On the original saw it ALWAYS cut at 90 degrees because there were two 'stops' on the front AND back of the saw to ensure it always returned to a true 90 degree.  On the newer model the original front and rear stops have been removed, to facilitate the minus 1 degree cut, and the stop is now only on the rear locking knob.  This is really rubbish engineering as invariably the 'play' in the hinge assembly, and even the weight of the saw, means that you always have to keep checking to see the saw it at a true 'zero' setting.  Too often I find myself halfway through cutting to see the saw having moved from its zero setting.  I used my old TS55 the other day and really wish I had kept it, the joy of never having to keep remembering to see if the saw was at 90 degrees!  I know the new saw gives you settings outside the 0 to 45 degree range but the price paid for this advantage is too much in my opinion; I want and use 90 degree cuts (with no faffing about) more than I want the occasional minus 1 or 46/7 degree cuts. 

And secondly the dust port on the newer saw has too much play in it; on the old model you could rotate it and it would stay in that position.  This again is rubbish engineering because, particularly when not using an extractor the dust goes all over the rail (as the port falls downwards),  When using the extractor I find the hose snags too easily on the end of the rail because again the dust port invariably points downwards meaning the extractor hose is pushed on to the end of the rail.  It would take very little engineering to come up with a dust port that could be easily rotated but with detents at various positions.

I had the Trion and bought the Carvex 400 when it came out.  Eventually after various repairs that was exchanged for a Carvex 420.  I've always thought the blade locking mechanism and release wasn't as good as the Trion.  On the Trion you pulled the lever, inserted the blade and job all done; a solid connection of blade to plunger rod.  On the Carvex you have to twist a sharp blade (who thought that was a good idea?) to lock it into place; it's never seemed quite as solid as the Trion.  In the Carvex you can feel the movement of a supposedly fixed blade if you twist it.  This week a worktop cutout was nearly ruined by the Carvex, even with a new Festool gold blade (corrected adjusted guides) it kept wandering all over the show.  On closer examination you can twist the blade significantly in the plunger rod, and (holding the plunger rod steady) you can rock the blade backwards and forward nearly 10mm.  Moreover the actual plunger rod itself has side-to-side play. 

And secondly the tilting base plate renders the saw next to useless in some situations.

I'm not a Festool basher but rather disappointed that in both of these supposedly improved tools the fundamental engineering seems to be a lesser quality.  Yes, the Carvex has lovely LED lights and three (the D handle) thoughtfully positioned on/ off switches but these are secondary features the main engineering of both of these tools seems lesser to me than their predecessor.

Troll

 

[Staniam]

I haven't ran into any of the Carvex problems you're  talking about and I use that saw more than any other saw. The one thing I was weary about was the dust extraction not being what I thought it would be when I finally picked up a CT but it's still light years better than without one. Haven't got my hands on the TS so I can't speak to that but I haven't heard of alignment or degree problems. And the dust port seems like a minor thing for what the saw does or how it performs. From what I've read, seen and heard.

 

[amt]

I agree with the 90 degree angle on the saw.  I have to pull out the digital protractor to set a perfect 90.  The default position for 90 is certainly not correct.  I find it a bit frustrating that I cannot adjust a "stop" to the right position for this.  It probably does not matter for plywood and MDF (and I don't bother with the protractor for those), but for gluing up solid wood it certainly makes a difference.  And the same goes for other angles for miter joints, etc. 

 

[Jaybolishes]

There was a great way to make the old ts55 dust port stiffer in the swiveling.  I can't remember what the poster did, it was something like adding a rubber ring or something like into the swivel mechanism.

 

[ear3]

I was at the dealer yesterday, and I mentioned the TS55 REQ issue.  He was the first one to actually mention a possible fix (when I brought it up with another dealer and even Festool service, they just kind of dismissed it) -- that Festool is working on a screw that you can add to the front bevel gauge to stop it at zero.  Not certain if this is true, but it's what he told me.  I'm not sure why it would take so long to deal with a problem that has been pointed out over and over again by users.

First time I brought it up on the FOG, a respondent mentioned they used a shim in the front underneath the saw tilting plate.  Another idea is to drill a screw through one of the holes in the tilting base such that it protrudes slightly and stops the plate at zero.  This doesn't sound like the best idea to me, but whatever works I suppose. 

I agree with you though, it's kind of stupid that there isn't absolute certainty about 90 degree cuts built into the saw.

 

[Caly]

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tool-problems/ts55-36383/

Believe we are both referring to the same problem, so hopefully they are on with a cure.

As to the carvex; I had to turn the led lights off because cutting upside down kind of caused a disco light effect with the sawdust reflecting off of the lights and I do know that the blade guide as started to ware.

My use on the jig saw per se as been reduced dramatically since owning a plunge saw as I do use it for worktop cut outs ( just finishing the corners off with carvex) and for near cutting for scribes etc.