TS75, 2 5/8” Walnut, bogged down during rip cut??

[Thompmd]

First thing, I’m new to this.

Was building a couple 6’ shelves in shop to store tools.

It’s Kiln Dried , user guide rails , using a Festool blade recently sharpened(only couple cuts w/new blade). Before I forget the 2nd shelf was identical except for only being 2 1/8” and the same s/u had no problems.

I’m not at shop so I’m uncertain of the actual blade tooth count etc.

Is it just reaching its capacity?

Thanks in Advance

 

[Distinctive Interiors]

Its likely the tooth count of the blade you were using is too high...???

A Rip blade would be the better option, something like a 493196 with 16 teeth.
The TS75 can cut to a depth of 70mm on the guide rail.

 

[demographic]

Most of the threads where a user says the saw is bogging down in the cut can be put down to either wet wood (not in this case) wood nipping up in the cut because of bad sawstool positioning or too many teeth sapping the power.

Just because a person has a blade with very few teeth doesnt mean they have to sprint alongside it and get a rough cut either, they can ease up a bit and get a decent quality cut many times.

 

[Mike Goetzke]

I recently started bogging down my TS75 on thinner stock. It was stress in the wood pinching the blade.

But, thick walnut for garage shelves - I envy you.

Mike

 

[butzla]

I agree with you it does seem a bit underpowered.  I just ripped some 8/4 cherry, knowing I only had the stock crosscutting blade, I clamped the rail down and made the cut in 3 passes.  I've since bought a ripping blade but have yet to use it. But it can be done  with a crosscut blade, just take no more than 17mm with each pass.

 

[Thompmd]

I just checked , it’s a 36 tooth #495380. The only other blade I currently have is a 52 tooth,#495381.

Sounds like I need a lower toothed blade, and will buy a 16 tooth. I hope I’m not opening up the proverbial can-O-works but the Aumish gentleman that sharpened them suggested a Tenyru as a more cost competitive option(yes he does sell Tenyru).

Could you share thoughts on that as well.

Thanks to all for your opinions!!

Also: I’m embarrassed I never thought about making smaller passes. Elephants are better if eaten in 1-bite I guess

 

[Kanuka]

The saw is weak. I can rip 8/4 purpleheart with the 55mm Mafell saw all day long without issue but the TS75 will trip its thermal overload and pop breakers over and over and over.

 

[TXFIVEO]

The TS75 isn’t weak at all.  I cut 2-3/4” thick white oak frequently with my TS75 with a Panther Blade and do it effortlessly with ONE pass.  Steady pace. 

The Mafell I had couldn’t cut this deep to save its life.  Reason why I got rid of it, it’s lack of depth of cut is horrible.  With a 2” depth of cut on the track..NO THANKS!

 

[Alanbach]

A sharp blade helps but for top performance you need the right sharp blade for the job. You can get away with a blade that is not perfect for the job in many cases but when you are trying to rip two and a half inch thick slab of a hardwood like walnut with a portable circular saw (even if it’s a Festool) you need a blade specifically designed for that purpose. Festool’s Panther blade is such a blade in this situation. It has less teeth at 16 but equally as important it has an aggressive hook angle and deeper gullets to help the blade clear the way effectively. When you are ripping 3/4” Hardwood you can get away with the wrong blade but as the job gets more challenging the blade selection becomes more important.

One more thing ... A Tenyru might be fine. I have never owned one. The important thing is that there is more to high performance blades than tooth count. As long as you get the tooth pattern, hook angle, gullet depth, etc. that you need for the specific purpose than you will probably be fine. I like to look at Festool’s blade specs as well as Forrest’s. Then if I want to buy a less expensive blade I know what I am looking for in the specs.

 

[Thompmd]

Ordered a Festool 16 tooth blade for the TS75 #495378

Thanks for the direction

 

[Sanderxpander]

I don't know how it is with Tenryu blades but my TS55 came with an "extra" blade from the (online) tool shop and only after trying to use it a year later I found out that while it fit, the kerf width was 2mm rather than Festool's 2.2mm spec. Seems like a small difference but it was just enough to make the riving knife stick and in the worst case, not go in at all.

Unfortunately many of Festool's products are made to use with their own accessories (like the dumb sanding paper hole pattern) but it's worth paying more to get properly specced accessories.