TS75 (and first Festool purchase)

[gkeas]

OK, let me qualify this review by first saying that I am NOT a professional woodsmith, or even an avid weekend warrior.  I am fairly handy around the house, though, and am often tasked with a pretty daunting Honey-do list. 

I bought the saw on Friday (after determining that I could NOT live without the saw, and unable to sleep, searching at 2 am that morning for a discounted price, which I could NOT find anywhere) at Woodcraft.  I was busy that afternoon and couldn't set it up, so I was checking out the Festoolusa website that evening and found the article about setting up the saw for the first time.  I followed the instructions (cut the strip on speed 1) after tightening the guide screws, made my fist cut, and the blade was dead on 90 degrees out of the box (at least according to the possibly inferior tools I have available...I read way too much on this site recently).  I then made my first 45 bevel, and it too, was dead on. 

I then used my two 1400mm tracks (never thought to check them for accuracy), to true and bevel (simultaneously) some 9' 1x10 cedar for columns (see below for more detail).  My first couple of cuts flared out at the end of the board (very small, but it still wasn't a perfect cut), then I realized that the front guide screw was going off the end of the track before I completed the cut.  I rectified the subsequent cuts by pushing the tracks off the end of the board further, then plunging into the stock at the beginning of the cut (not ideal, but effective).  The rest of the cuts were perfect.  After assmebling the columns (wrapping existing painted wood columns) the corners were PERFECT.  It looked like a solid cedar post.  Keep in mind that I am not a patient person, or particulary meticulous when it comes to working with wood.  I could not have done a better job than I did on these things.

I suppose I got lucky (after reading some issues posted here) that the blade was perfectly square out of the box, and that my 2 55" tracks also butted perfectly together for a perfect strait cut.  Having said that, I'd rather be lucky than good.  I LOVE this saw, and I wish I had known about it several projects ago.  I highly recommend it to any one who wants to make long, straight cuts easily and accurately.

 

[ROb McGilp]

Ahhh, it warms the cockles of me 'eart so it does to see someone new join the faith and wit' such a magnificent beast to boot.

Rob

 

[Greg in Memphis]

Hey gkeas
Welcome and congratulations on your new TS 75.
The 75 was my first purchase also.
Man, that saw just exudes quality, doesn't it?
It's nice to know that some other layperson out there is making perfect cuts too. It's like getting a perfect wood cutting certificate that lasts forever.

We are all very happy for you.

Greg

 

[GaryFL08]

Hey guys - I'm also comtemplating my first purchase.  I have a Jet cabinet saw, and many other tools packed into a 1 car garage...but I have been losing sleep over wanting this thing for too long, and I'm very close to ready (just need another $300 in my "Festool fund").  So - I've decided on the CT22, and to do the package deal....i've been leaning towards the TS55, as I do mainly sheet goods, cabinets, etc. on weekends....tons of building projects around the house.  Should I step up to the 75 if I dont think I'll hardly ever use the depth?  I just hate to ever look back...thoughts??

 

[Qwas]

I started with the TS-55 just over a year ago. My needs were about the same as yours and cutting some 2x framing lumber. I have been pleased and happy I got it. No regrets. Great cuts, no adjustments were necessary, no problems butting rails together.

After a year of use, my only regret is not getting it sooner!

 

[Daviddubya]

...Should I step up to the 75 if I dont think I'll hardly ever use the depth?  I just hate to ever look back...thoughts??

I have had the ATF55 (now "upgraded" to a TS55 I got slightly used) for several years.  I can recall only one instance where I wished for more depth of cut.  Since the TS55 is lighter and easier to handle, and you will use it primarily for sheet cuts, I'd stick with the smaller saw.

 

[Frank Pellow]

I started with the ATF55 about four years ago.  It was a great saw but I did fiond myself wanting additional depth on several off-site projects where I don't have a table saw.  So, I upgraded to the TS75 last year.  If you don't have this type of requirement, the TS55 will do fine.

By the way, I don't find the added size and weight of the TS75 to be any problem at all.

 

[GaryFL08]

excellent.  Thanks guys....sounds like 55 is definitely the one for me.  So, what I'm hearing on the rails is that you can combine 2 of the 55"??  I saw the price on the 110" (i think) as I was trying to figure out how I'll rip a sheet of ply....guessing this is the way to go vs. spending $200+ on the larger rail?

 

[Ned]

Gary--

Have a look at this thread:  Never buy the same size rail.

Ned

 

[Daviddubya]

Gary--

Have a look at this thread:  Never buy the same size rail.

Ned

I wish I had read the referenced thread a couple of years ago.  I needed a 55" rail for my double MFT - with the rail running parallel to the long dimension of the MFT.  I already had two 55" rails that I used for cutting sheets.  If I had thought more about it I would have purchased a longer rail instead of a third 55" rail, which is permanently mounted on the MFT.  Oh well - tunnel vision at the time.

 

[joraft]

....sounds like 55 is definitely the one for me.  So, what I'm hearing on the rails is that you can combine 2 of the 55"?? 

The TS75 was my first Festool purchase a few months ago. I chose the larger saw because I wanted to have the extra depth when I needed it. It's about 3 1/2 lbs. heavier, but with 400 more watts of power the extra torque makes it worth it for me to lug that around. However, I do agree with those who say the TS55 is easily enough for the purposes you described. Do remember though that angle cuts take more blade depth, so if you're planning to cut 45 deg. edges on thicker panels you might want more blade.

Regarding the guides, I also cut a lot of sheet goods and I like to plunge the saw before starting the cut and lift it after it has left the panel. So, I got a 55'' guide for crosscuts and a 118" for the rips. I've had trouble several times in the past with using joined guides (not Festool), with straightness and a bump at the seam, so I never even considered joining the Festool guides. I figured if I'm going first class on a saw, I want a nice straight, smooth guide to run it on.

John

 

[GaryFL08]

good points...thanks again for the info.  So...this is getting me thinking (and there is likely a thread I havent yet found dedicated to this topic) - where do you draw the line between table saw and TS plunge?  Guessing starting out, until funds allowed, I'd rip sheets on my Jet cab saw, crosscuts and smaller cuts/angle cuts on the TS.  BUT...are you guys using your table saw less as a result of owning a TS.  Jobsite work is a no-brainer - TS all day long because you can't get a highly accurate table saw that is portable and with capacity.  But what about in th shop environment??  Seems like everyone is going with MFT's.  At first I was thinking "no way would I need that...I've got a great table saw".  Now I'm having second thoughts...but guess I'm just not totally clear (not being an owner yet) on when you use your table saw and when you pull out your TS and MFT???  ???

 

[semenza]

Hi,

  I have to agree that the long rails are nice. I have the 55" , 75", and 118".

    You can reliably join two rails for the long cuts. But having the 118" rail will save you a bunch of time. If you use two joined rails you will either have to make all long or short cuts first, thus handling the material twice. Or keep joining and seperating the rails to switch between cut lengths. Unless you have three short rails, but then you might as well get one long and one short.  The 55" rail is long enough for a 48" cut, just. I like using the 75" for crosscutting plywood because it is easier with a little extra at each end. The 106" will do 8' cuts but the 118" gives a little extra there also.

    Like others have said, if you go with two short- get the 75" . Much more versatile that way.

      Here is another thread   http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=1508.0 
                                             http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=2472.0

Seth

 

[Steve Jones]

Gary,

I run a cabinet shop, the tablesaw gets used for ripping board stock (usually 2" rips). For almost all panel cutting I use an oversized table (top is a sheet of 3/4 MDF which comes slightly larger than 4' x 8') with an attached fence on the operator side and adjustable block on the other side. It's basically a scaled up MFT with stops instead of the hinge, because at 48"+ width the hinge loses it's use (you can't reach to put the rail upright 4' away from you, or get it back down again, at least I can't and I'm 6' 2".

I have the long rail for the 8' cuts, it's easier and quicker to grab it than joining two shorter rails.

Steve

 

[Daviddubya]

...but guess I'm just not totally clear (not being an owner yet) on when you use your table saw and when you pull out your TS and MFT???  ???

I am a semi-pro, part-time-retired woodworker, with a home-based 3-car garage shop, and I get paid for work by clients.  I have a 52 inch Jet cabinet saw that I owned for several years before getting into Festool.  I used to cut down sheets on the cabinet saw.  After learning what the TS55, guide rails and MFT can do, I now use a double MFT for just about all square crosscuts of large pieces of material, sheets or hardwood.  I also like and use a Bosch sliding compound miter saw (SCMS) for crosscuts up to 12", especially repeated cuts.  I am now thinking about scaling down the cabinet saw to a smaller fence capacity to save room in my shop.  I almost never need the 52" capacity now.  And my back thanks me when I am cutting up sheets.

I still use the Jet table saw frequently for rips, miter gauge work, dados, etc.  Sometimes it is just easier to set the fence and push the ON button to make a quick cut.  At this point I think all three saws, TS55, Jet and SCMS, are "essential" in my shop.

 

[alg]

Is there any risk of messing up the edges on the guide rails if I was to switch from a TS55 to a TS75?
I have the TS75 on my wish list but I mainly cut sheet goods, so the TS5 works. I am a sucker for the greater power, size, capacity. Not being sure I can go back-and-forth is holding me back.

 

[Frank Pellow]

good points...thanks again for the info.  So...this is getting me thinking (and there is likely a thread I haven't yet found dedicated to this topic) - where do you draw the line between table saw and TS plunge?  Guessing starting out, until funds allowed, I'd rip sheets on my Jet cab saw, crosscuts and smaller cuts/angle cuts on the TS.  BUT...are you guys using your table saw less as a result of owning a TS.  Jobsite work is a no-brainer - TS all day long because you can't get a highly accurate table saw that is portable and with capacity.  But what about in th shop environment??  Seems like everyone is going with MFT's.  At first I was thinking "no way would I need that...I've got a great table saw".  Now I'm having second thoughts...but guess I'm just not totally clear (not being an owner yet) on when you use your table saw and when you pull out your TS and MFT???  ???

Gary, when I am in the shop, I frequently use my table saw rather than my MFT, particularly on repetitive cuts of small pieces.  I don't have the room to always have my MFT set up, so sometimes I even use the table saw for larger pieces that would be better cut on the MFT.  I do have a sled on my table saw so can do cross cuts up to about 70 centimetres.  I don't own a chop saw.  But, I would never even consider passing a full sheet of plywood through my table saw.  Most of my large sheet good are not cut on the MFT either, rather they are cut on a special cutting board made with solid foam insulation glued to plywood and supported by a pair of knock-down saw horses.

 

[Frank Pellow]

About the rail question.  I have three 1400 mm rails as well as the two shorter rails that came with my two MFTs.  I never even considered a longer rail because of transportation problems.  I usually keep two of the rails connected for long cuts on sheet goods and use the other for cross cuts.  I have never had any problem quickly connecting two (or even three) rails and the so called bump at the joint has been a non-event for me.

 

[Corwin]

Is there any risk of messing up the edges on the guide rails if I was to switch from a TS55 to a TS75?
I have the TS75 on my wish list but I mainly cut sheet goods, so the TS5 works. I am a sucker for the greater power, size, capacity. Not being sure I can go back-and-forth is holding me back.

I only have the TS55, but I do believe that others have mentioned here that the TS55 and TS75 cut the rubber splinter strip at different positions -- I think the TS75 will cut off a little more than the TS55.  You might (again, not sure) be able to adjust the base (like when setting the toe-in) on the saws such that they will cut alike.  Otherwise, you would have to either adjust or replace the splinter strip when changing saws -- or use separate rails for each.  Kind of the same problem we have with using different blades with one of the saws...

 

[joraft]

... where do you draw the line between table saw and TS plunge?  ... are you guys using your table saw less as a result of owning a TS. 

Gary,

I've owned a Powermatic Model 66 for over 17 years. It's a great machine and very accurate, I doubt that I'll ever sell or replace it. But I am using it less now that I have my TS75 and guides. For example, I've always hated wrestling with ripping full sheets on the table saw, and now I don't have to.

One of the first things I learned about woodworking is that there are often many different ways to accomplish the same thing. But whether it's cutting, routing or drilling, sometimes it's better to move the material past a stationary machine, and sometimes it's better to clamp the material and move the machine. And using the Festool system has for the first time let me feel that I could do the latter with great accuracy. And it's so great to have that option.

John