Ts75 dragging on rail

[ear3]

Setup my ts75 just now, and it felt off --slide on the rail felt like there was more friction. Wasn't jerky, but simply not as smooth as I'm used to. Adjusting the rail snuggling knows didn't make any difference. The glide strips on the rail are in good condition. As I was inspecting the underside of the saw I noticed that the back channel looks worn -' I'm not sure what this component is called, but it looks like some metal/alloy coating meant to reduce friction. You can see the one in the front is still intact. Is this the source of the problem, and if so what's the fix?

Saw is only 2 yes old btw.

 

[Klemm]

now you got my curiosity - I'm going over to the woodshop right now and see what the arrangement on our TS55 EQ looks like by comparison. Curious what  opposing feature the saw stops against when the gibs are adjusted all the way tight.

Stand by and I'll report back shortly

Klemm

 

[thudchkr]

Setup my ts75 just now, and it felt off --slide on the rail felt like there was more friction. Wasn't jerky, but simply not as smooth as I'm used to. Adjusting the rail snuggling knows didn't make any difference. The glide strips on the rail are in good condition. As I was inspecting the underside of the saw I noticed that the back channel looks worn -' I'm not sure what this component is called, but it looks like some metal/alloy coating meant to reduce friction. You can see the one in the front is still intact. Is this the source of the problem, and if so what's the fix?

Saw is only 2 yes old btw.

From your first picture, it looks like the front one has more wear on it than the back one. Does the saw slide more freely when you loosen the adjusters?  Does there appear to be wear on your rail(s) as well?  If you loosen the adjusters and then try sliding the saw with it pushed up against the adjusters, a freely sliding saw would indicate your increased friction is being caused by the worn spot(s) on the base of your TS 75.

Clint

 

[Klemm]

Edward,
my TS-55 REQ has a pair of low friction wear parts in the area where the gib adjustment is taking place. This is the correct way to deal with wear and adjustment for wear.

On your pictures of the TS-75 I don't see anything like the features on the TS-55 REQ.

How old is your TS-75? From your pictures it does not look like there is any provision for a fixed position replaceable wear part - hmmm ?

Klemm

 

[Klemm]

see attached pictures of my TS-55 REQ gib adjustment area with replaceable wear parts

Klemm

 

[roblg3]

Is there any chance that is some sticky substance that gotten stuck on it?  Can some alcohol rubbed on it help?

 

[ear3]

That's the setup on my TSC55 as well.  The sliding mechanism on the TS75 is just older I guess.  The newer design makes a lot more sense.

I cleaned out the channel with alcohol as well, but that didn't do anything.  I really think it is that worn out coating next to the gib that's causing the problem.  It's strange that the wear is uneven though.  I guess there must have been a small differential between how the front and back were tightened, and that resulted over time in the uneven wear pattern.

I assume this is fixable through service.

see attached pictures of my TS-55 REQ gib adjustment area with replaceable wear parts

Klemm

 

[Svar]

Just attach pieces of UHMW tape to the wornout spots. It comes in variety of sizes, is super slick and the glue is pretty strong. It will push your saw away from the splinter guard a bit (by tape thickness).

 

[canadamike]

FWIW - I apply a bit of wax to the channels in the TS75 base, just a couple scribles of wax, like you would treat the base of any metal hand plane. Makes a world of difference. My TS75 is an older version as well.

 

[MrToolJunkie]

The TS75 baseplate does not have the wear strips. I wish it did, but hough use it can wear. The only fix is to use the slick tape as noted or buy a new baseplate. Since your saw is still under warranty they might fix without charge. The anodized aluminum track is tougher than the paint and metal baseplate, hence the wear. I think th as the is why FT changed the design in the TS55 saws as the little black plastic steps are a replaceable wear item.

 

[Michael Kellough]

see attached pictures of my TS-55 REQ gib adjustment area with replaceable wear parts

Klemm

Notice that the gibs on the newer saw are much longer than on the 75. This allows the saw to be farther from the work (at the beginning and end of the cut) so you're less likely to need to start the cut with a plunge right into the wood or end the cut with the blade still in the kerf.

 

[PreferrablyWood]

Good too know this is a problem I should keep an I on..

 

[TomE]

I see a similar wear pattern on my T55 EQ, a little over 10 years in service.
No plastic other than the gibs, not quite as much wear as you're showing

On mine it's the back side with heavier wear, very possibly my hand does not travel in a perfectly straight line and lateral forces are unequal between the two gibs. I do know that I tend to veer to the right on my MFT setup at the end of a crosscut (using my right hand)

I occasionally clean and spray the rails and plate with Bostik topcoat (or similar) to keep things smooth.

 

[ear3]

I see.  I obviously need to keep a closer eye on my gib calibration.  I think part of it also may be from using different rails with the same gib setting.  I noticed that there's some tolerances when switching back and forth from say, the 3000mm rail to the 75", such that the saw feels slightly tighter/looser on either. 

I see a similar wear pattern on my T55 EQ, a little over 10 years in service.
No plastic other than the gibs, not quite as much wear as you're showing

On mine it's the back side with heavier wear, very possibly my hand does not travel in a perfectly straight line and lateral forces are unequal between the two gibs. I do know that I tend to veer to the right on my MFT setup at the end of a crosscut (using my right hand)

I occasionally clean and spray the rails and plate with Bostik topcoat (or similar) to keep things smooth.

 

[Doug S]

I wonder if the rails actually wear because my ts 55 is much slacker on my original 10yr old 1.4m rail then my 3yr old 3m rail?

Doug

 

[TomE]

Yeah, that REQ gib setup maybe allows for a little tighter fit at the gibs but on mine I only adjust enough to take out noticeable wiggle between the rail and the saw and run it down the rail to see if there are any tight spots along the length and re-adjust it there if it feels too tight. Too loose or too tight both have their inherent problems.

Still these tracksaws (any brand) do pretty good work considering that they're just glorified 'SkillSaws' guided by a straight edge.

 

[Michael Kellough]

I wonder if the rails actually wear because my ts 55 is much slacker on my original 10yr old 1.4m rail then my 3yr old 3m rail?

Doug

The rails don't wear. The anodized layer is much harder than the saw's base plate or the plastic gibs.

The rails are extruded. The extrusion die has to be replaced when it gets too worn. Rails produced at different times (relative to the age of the die) are different sizes measured at the spine. As a consequence, two rails you want to join may be a very close match, or not.

If two rails are more than .1mm different in size then use a straight edge to align the cut side then set the gibs to the fat rail and maintain pressure against the cut side of the spine while guiding the saw.

Given the inadequate gibs on the TS 75 you should use a dry lubricant on the rails, if it's not too late. On a TS 75 base plate that is in good condition, I'd consider cleaning and adding psa HDPE tape, but if you frequently use joined rails and they aren't well matched the tape won't last as long.

 

[conduitguy]

I don't know that this addresses the issue you're having, but I spray the bottom of my TS75 periodically with silicone spray (primarily on the area of the channel) and then wipe off the excess. Makes the saw slide a lot easier.

I find that between the track saw and all the older style systainers, a good supply of silicone lubricants is a must.

 

[Cheese]

I'd suggest a PTFE or equivalent dry spray but avoid silicone sprays altogether for anyone doing any type of woodworking or finishing work. Silicone is terrible to have around due to contaminant issues for staining, painting etc, causing fisheyes. I removed all silicone sprays from my workshop years ago.

Absolutely agree,  [thumbs up] silicone spray is bad for anything that will be painted, stained or bonded. And if that isn't enough, it migrates extremely easily from object to person to object or any combination thereof. Once contaminated, it's virtually impossible to remove it and that's the reason it's banned from many work environments.

If a PTFE based dry film lubricant is used, check the MSDS to make sure it contains no silicone.