I've been working nights all week on a buildout for a Professional Office. The Receptionist Desk has a "bar-top" counter which I made from 5/4 White Oak milled into a 1-1/8" x 12" finished dimension. all processing was done on shop machinery + glue-up was done in my clamp rack and is totally sound, so that isn't the problem...
when I attempt to make the miter cuts to join the bartop at a 90deg corner, I am getting substandard cut quality with my TS75. there is simply too much deflection to even consider calling this a "joint"
as I am cutting along the guiderail (which is clamped on both ends) I can hear and feel the deflection in the blade... now, if the Kapex had enough cut capacity, it would make a clean miter joint, ready for Domino's!, but my TS75 is just not "cutting it"!
I would like to know whether this is merely a limitation of the tool, or if there is something WRONG with mine?
I am using a brand new 495380 blade, as this material is too thick for a general "crosscut" blade to cut without burning.
Incidentally, I am getting no burning with this blade, it is just the random excessive runout.
for lack of a better way to describe it, it feels like the blade encounters harder areas of the cut and "flexes" causing nasty "bite marks" and a horrendous cut quality that is anything but smooth.
This material is no different than a Stair Tread, which I install a LOT of... and if there is something wrong with this saw, I need to get it fixed NOW, before the next job.
as for this one miter joint, I dressed the joint up with a shooting board and a hand plane, then Domino'd it together, done deal...
Something else I am noticing (which doesn't seem right)
my TS75 seems to cut too close to the guiderail.
in fact, I am surprised the deflection in my bar top cuts last night didn't make contact with the aluminum! (it didn't, but the splinterguard is within a gnat'sass of the guiderail where the deflection was at it's worst...
how close should the kerf be to the actual guiderail itself?
with my TS55, there was about 1mm -1.5mm of splinterguard left. but once I made the first pass with the TS75, -there is almost NOsplinterguard protrusion now!
are there a list of SPECS & TOLERANCES for Festool tools anywhere? surely there are prescribed minima for these tools that Festool technicians would use to gauge whether a tool passes or fails, right?
would be really nice to know that!
thanks for any help, suggestions or advice on what to do with my TS75.
Something doesn't seem right here, and hopefully it is something that can be easily rectified.
when I attempt to make the miter cuts to join the bartop at a 90deg corner, I am getting substandard cut quality with my TS75. there is simply too much deflection to even consider calling this a "joint"
as I am cutting along the guiderail (which is clamped on both ends) I can hear and feel the deflection in the blade... now, if the Kapex had enough cut capacity, it would make a clean miter joint, ready for Domino's!, but my TS75 is just not "cutting it"!
I would like to know whether this is merely a limitation of the tool, or if there is something WRONG with mine?
I am using a brand new 495380 blade, as this material is too thick for a general "crosscut" blade to cut without burning.
Incidentally, I am getting no burning with this blade, it is just the random excessive runout.
for lack of a better way to describe it, it feels like the blade encounters harder areas of the cut and "flexes" causing nasty "bite marks" and a horrendous cut quality that is anything but smooth.
This material is no different than a Stair Tread, which I install a LOT of... and if there is something wrong with this saw, I need to get it fixed NOW, before the next job.
as for this one miter joint, I dressed the joint up with a shooting board and a hand plane, then Domino'd it together, done deal...
Something else I am noticing (which doesn't seem right)
my TS75 seems to cut too close to the guiderail.
in fact, I am surprised the deflection in my bar top cuts last night didn't make contact with the aluminum! (it didn't, but the splinterguard is within a gnat'sass of the guiderail where the deflection was at it's worst...
how close should the kerf be to the actual guiderail itself?
with my TS55, there was about 1mm -1.5mm of splinterguard left. but once I made the first pass with the TS75, -there is almost NOsplinterguard protrusion now!
are there a list of SPECS & TOLERANCES for Festool tools anywhere? surely there are prescribed minima for these tools that Festool technicians would use to gauge whether a tool passes or fails, right?
would be really nice to know that!
thanks for any help, suggestions or advice on what to do with my TS75.
Something doesn't seem right here, and hopefully it is something that can be easily rectified.
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