TS75 Plunge Saw

[MrToolJunkie]

Well I took the plunge (literally) and bought a TS75 plunge saw today along with an extra 55 inch rail, connectors, deflector & rail connectors.  Took advantage of the promo blade pack and saved some money too!  Any other must-have accessories I am missing?  Oh, I also ordered the DeWalt T-Track adaptor from Amazon -- they have a pretty good price on these right now -- $21.98.  Does everyone recommend using clamps with the rail or mainly do without?  I am thinking I should pick up a set, but the rail seems to stick pretty well without anything .  I am going to use this saw mostly for straight-line ripping and breaking down hardwood before using the TS.  I also will cut some sheet goods, but mostly I bought it for the straight-line capabilities.

Also, I noticed that the Panther blade is a little thicker kerf than the standard blade and the cross-cut blade.  Sounds like the only workaround might be to eventually buy extra rails for ripping with this particular blade or just not use it -- any thoughts out there on this?  I wonder why Festool would not make everything the same kerf thickness to avoid this problem.

I will be giving this saw a workout this weekend and cannot wait!

Thanks!

Scot  

 

[peter halle]

I don't want to upset the cart - but don't use the panther blade if you want to use the rails with a normal blade later and expect the ultimate chip free surface.  If you want to have separate rail sets for the ripping blades versus the other blades, then go aheadf.  Tenyru has a ripping blade that has the same kerf that you may want to investigate.  If I was going to use the saw to rip hardwoods for the first cut, I would clamp the rail.  That'sjust me.

Peter

 

[JJ Wavra]

Scot,

I have the panther blade and it has been used maybe twice the cut quality is just not good.  I had to rip the stock a little bigger then send it through the planer that just does not make a lot of sense.  I always clamp my rail and usually use two to boot.  I really prefer the ratcheting clamps for rail use, I have two of those just for that purpose and then keep an assortment of the screw clamps for other uses.

JJ

 

[Rob Z]

Hi  Scot,

I just got my 75 a short time ago.  I have been using clamps because I just can't get used to relying on the gription of the guide rail to hold itself in place.  It doesn't take long to slide them in the underside of the track and tighten them. 

You'll love the saw...it is a sweet machine.

 

[fshanno]

Well I took the plunge (literally) and bought a TS75 plunge saw today along with an extra 55 inch rail, connectors, deflector & rail connectors.  Took advantage of the promo blade pack and saved some money too!  Any other must-have accessories I am missing?  Oh, I also ordered the DeWalt T-Track adaptor from Amazon -- they have a pretty good price on these right now -- $21.98.  Does everyone recommend using clamps with the rail or mainly do without?  I am thinking I should pick up a set, but the rail seems to stick pretty well without anything .  I am going to use this saw mostly for straight-line ripping and breaking down hardwood before using the TS.  I also will cut some sheet goods, but mostly I bought it for the straight-line capabilities.

Also, I noticed that the Panther blade is a little thicker kerf than the standard blade and the cross-cut blade.  Sounds like the only workaround might be to eventually buy extra rails for ripping with this particular blade or just not use it -- any thoughts out there on this?  I wonder why Festool would not make everything the same kerf thickness to avoid this problem.

I will be giving this saw a workout this weekend and cannot wait!

Thanks!

Scot 

Scot,

I go ahead and clamp when straight lining.  And you'll probably want to clamp when you're cutting marine plywood. 

I have both types of Festool clamps and they're great clamps on the MFT but I find that the DeWalt clamps are more convienient working under the guide.  I think they are about the same price as Festool and of course they fit the rail fine.  They won't go in the holes on an MFT without modification.

 

[justinmcf]

hi scot and welcome to the forum.

with regards to the blade thickness and guide rails. i use a 1400mm rail for crosscutting sheet goods and then i have 2 other 1400mm rails that i use solely for ripping.
this eliminates the issue of blade difference between ripping and crosscutting.
i think festool have new blades coming soon which are all the same thickness, or maybe they are available already, i cant remember.
maybe someone else can tell us if these new blades are available now.

regards, justin.

 

[ForumMFG]

Just a little suggestion, I would go ahead and clamp the rail anytime your cutting a hardwood such as maple over 3/4" thick.  It will move on you if you don't.  I was cutting 3" maple strips and it would move on me.

 

[Bob Marino]

Scot,

I agree with the others - clamping provides good and easy insurance against slippage. Also, makes lining the rail to the mark way easier.

Bob

 

[Holzhacker]

Congratulations on the new TS75. I've had mine for a while now and love using it. If I need good straight cuts in 3/4" I usually don't clamp. If cutting 2x or I need really precise cuts, I clamp. I find that if I don't try to feed too fast, slippage of the rail isn't and issue. The regular festool clamps take some getting used to. I don't think they are all that good. The ratchet clamps are great though, unfortunately very pricey. I'm also one of those who uses the saw without the rail at times. Bad boy, I know.

 

[ForumMFG]

Say you are cutting a piece of wood that is 1 1/2" thick x 10" wide x 36" long.  You put the piece of wood on your MFT to cut it.  The MFT is obviously longer then the wood you are cutting.  So you want to use a guide rail and clamp it.  The guide rail sticks past the front and back of the piece of wood because it's 55" long so you have to clamp the guide rail to the edge of the MFT at the front and back.  Now there is a large space between where it's clamped and the piece of wood on both ends if you centered it. Is there anyway around this, I noticed that when you do this the guide rail bows up because it's clamped towards the end of the front and back of the guide rail and not clamped directly under the piece of wood?

In another post I asked about clamping the guide rail and it bowing but didn't get to many responses, I figured this would be a good thread to post this in.

-Dave

 

[Holzhacker]

That's actually an interesting question. I'll have to try that today or tomorrow and see how it works or doesn't. I usually don't clamp when cutting on the MFT. When I do clamp on the MFT I have always clamped the wood to the MFT. I guess I assumed the rail wasn't going anywhere so why clamp it. I clamp the wood just in case for movement or kick out.

 

[woodshopdemos]

Say you are cutting a piece of wood that is 1 1/2" thick x 10" wide x 36" long.  You put the piece of wood on your MFT to cut it.  The MFT is obviously longer then the wood you are cutting.  So you want to use a guide rail and clamp it.  The guide rail sticks past the front and back of the piece of wood because it's 55" long so you have to clamp the guide rail to the edge of the MFT at the front and back.  Now there is a large space between where it's clamped and the piece of wood on both ends if you centered it. Is there anyway around this, I noticed that when you do this the guide rail bows up because it's clamped towards the end of the front and back of the guide rail and not clamped directly under the piece of wood?

In another post I asked about clamping the guide rail and it bowing but didn't get to many responses, I figured this would be a good thread to post this in.

-Dave

Dave, it is a good question and it will come up quite often. I think the best answer is to put some stock of the same width at either end. The clamp really should be over the entire thickness at both ends. Now, you mentioned the MFT. As far as I am concerned, the guide rail on the MFT is not clamped. it is hinged at one end and in the socket at the other so the guide rail is secure and it is lowered to the thickness of the board. The board can be placed under the guide rail and shove against the fence. If you feel the wood can still move, you can place a clamp on the board using one of those little holes.

 

[ForumMFG]

Well, I've taken the guide rail off the hinge and rotated it on the MFT to run long ways.

 

[JJ Wavra]

MFG,

Just decide where the end of the board is going to be on the mft.  Take a clamp and put it through the table so the screw or ratcheting mechanism is below the table.  Then slide the rail into it and clamp under the table.  I actually made a 16" wide by 8' folding table that has holes drilled at normal cutting distances so I can do the same thing on longer cuts and still get the security of clamping at the front and back if you will.

Hope this make sense.

JJ

 

[MrToolJunkie]

Hi everyone,

Thanks for all of the great information and tips.  I appreciate the comments and feedback.

Scot