Turning Sander on while touching the workpiece?

EcoFurniture

Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2008
Messages
608
Hi gang,

I'm having a small argument with my staff about when to turn on a random orbital sander. The sander in question is a ETS125EQ.
Ok, is there any reason why you can't turn the sander on while it's sitting on the work piece?
Or is it better to start the sander first and then put it down on the piece?

Thanks and Cheers,
Andreas
 
EcoFurniture said:
Hi gang,

I'm having a small argument with my staff about when to turn on a random orbital sander. The sander in question is a ETS125EQ.
Ok, is there any reason why you can't turn the sander on while it's sitting on the work piece?
Or is it better to start the sander first and then put it down on the piece?

Thanks and Cheers,
Andreas

Andreas,

I believe that the consensus of opinion is to bring the sander up to the desired speed before applying it to your workpiece.  The reason being, as I can attest, is that the torque generated by the sander as it is being brought up to speed, would lead to erratic results on the sanded surface.

Let's say you are using your ETS125 at the highest #6 setting.  Until it gets there you are running through all the lower speeds and probably generating some awful swirl marks in the meantime.  You may even experience some gouging of the surface.  My ETS125 seems to grab the surface much more at the slower speeds.  Same holds true for my RO125.

I am not a pro by any means justing letting you know what I know.  I am sure others will agree about the speed but maybe for a different reason.

Neill
 
Well, I'm going to tell you the exact opposite and say that turning it on while it rests on the workpiece is the recommended way.

Unlike Neill says, there is absolutely nothing wrong with the machine going through it's lower speeds because it is still the exact same motion.

Furthermore, I learned sanding with random orbit sanders before they had the speed break installed and at that time it was even mandatory to start it on the object because if you let the machine go from the object the disk would spin so fast that it would make a dent when you placed it back. Placing it back spinning was a big no-no.

Really, your sander isn't going to do any bothersome things in the second it's spinning up. Only thing you always have to do is start moving right away. If you place it on the workpiece spinning you have to worry more about making a dent because the sander is spinning faster than normally.

 
The reason why pad breaks were developed for electric sanders is for this very reason. Due to the mass of the motor rotor, the sanders do start up fairly slow and can leave erratic marks on the wood. Once the sander is in contact with the wood, the pad break is actually a detriment to finish quality. So if starting them up on the workpiece was a good thing to do, then pad breaks wouldn't be necessary.

You won't find pad breaks on pneumatic sanders because their rotors are lighter and they spin up to full rpm very rapidly.
 
Rick,

Just to clear up what your saying, what is the correct way to start them up? On or off the wood.

 
What both Alex and Rick are referring to can be seen in the video on this page called, "Rotex 125: Sanding Pad Brake". It's near the end of the list. There's another about 1/4 way down the list called "RO 150 FEQ: Sanding Pad Brake".

Tom
 
I've been taught to start it on the work piece. Well, in that context he was talking about using a belt sander which could kick back and damage the work piece.
 
Well I watched the video and one left a deep scratch and one left a really deep scratch. 

So Maybe I'm just slow but my question is...

From Festools point of view with Festool sanders...

What is the recommendation when starting the sander... on the wood or off the wood?

And also when removing the sander... shutting it off before removing it from the wood or remove it while it's spinning and shut it off in the air?
 
Wayne,

When I watched the video on Tom's site titled, RO 125 Fine Sanding, the demonstrator started off the wood and stopped after taking off the wood.

I had read this technique somewhere else and have been using for years.
 
The videos show why they use the pad brake and how it can help or possibly change the way you use the sander.

I'm not sure there's a definitive answer to the original question... I tend to start a sander and approach the work piece, usually trying to be supported in some way that I can control the entry, just in case I'm not "on plane" or my angle of approach is wrong.

When the sander is moving fast, you can get some violent reactions and sometimes, ugly results. I think it really depends on the sander/sander speed, the material, the abrasive, and the set up of the sander handler.

I get used to doing things certain ways and those ways work well for me. I meet other people that do the same things opposite ways and they work for them as well or better.

I met a guy that had a wrist that was at about 45 degrees. He had to think about every tool he used in a different way than most of us.

What I'm trying to say, at far too great length, is that what  Andreas said is so important - experiment, and hopefully not with the most important piece.

That's my 12 cents... 'Sorry for the length.

Tom
 
Rick Christopherson said:
The reason why pad breaks were developed for electric sanders is for this very reason. Due to the mass of the motor rotor, the sanders do start up fairly slow and can leave erratic marks on the wood. Once the sander is in contact with the wood, the pad break is actually a detriment to finish quality. So if starting them up on the workpiece was a good thing to do, then pad breaks wouldn't be necessary.

For somebody who has the reputation of being an authority on Festool, it is a shame to see how misinformed you are on this subject.

Sanding pad brakes were absolutely NOT developed for that very reason you mention, and they certainly aren't detrimental to finish quality either.

Of course you nor anybody else here is going to take my word for it, going against the know and respected authority here, so I'll just take the liberty of quoting a US patent site.

In its preferred embodiment, the preferred brake system disclosed in the present application prevents rotation of pad 22 when the motor is running and the pad is unconstrained by a workpiece surface but permits the random orbit sanding motion when the pad comes in contact with the workpiece surface. The objective of a brake for use in connection with random orbit sanders is to prevent the spin up of the pad to essentially motor speed when the pad is unconstrained by a workpiece. If the pad is allowed to reach motor speed such as in a free-spinning configuration, a user may gouge or scratch the workpiece when placing the spinning pad down on the workpiece. On the other hand, if the sanding pad can be constrained from spin up prior to the time that it is placed on the workpiece, this undesirable gouging or scratching or the like can be eliminated. Furthermore, such a brake eliminates the necessity for inexperienced users to remember to place the sanding pad onto the workpiece before starting the motor in order to avoid this problem, such as in prior art sanders without a brake. In addition, the present braking system eliminates the potential for a sanding disc or the like to be flung dangerously off of a free-spinning pad, eliminates the danger of personal injury from a free-spinning pad.

I don't need to remember people here how strict and precise patent applications have to be worded in order to have any chance at being accepted.

Rick Christopherson said:
You won't find pad breaks on pneumatic sanders because their rotors are lighter and they spin up to full rpm very rapidly.

The reason they don't have brakes is not the spinning up factor, but in the spinning down factor. You do are right about the fact that the weight of the rotor is important in this matter.

The differences between a pneumatic sander and an electric are basically twofold:

1) the electric sander has a big and heavy rotor as compared to the pneumatic sander,
2) the electric sander has a stationary switch that switches between the on and off positions and STAYS there when you don't touch it, while the pneumatic sander has a switch that opens when you press it and closes when you release it. As a consequence, you constantly have to hold the pneumatic switch for the machine to work while you can let go of the electric switch.

So now we can take a look at how people actually work in general with their sanders, and look at how those 2 differences mentioned above work out in practice. You see, people have the constant habit of taking the sander off their work to see what they're doing and checking the result. Now, with a pneumatic sander, you let go of the switch and due to the low weight of the rotor, the pad stops spinning almost immediately, no more than 1 to 3 seconds. With the electric sander on the other hand, spinning down can take A LOT longer, 15 to 20 seconds. AND you have to reach for the switch again to turn it off. As a result, when people work with electric sanders, they tend to let the machine running while they take it off the workpiece, while as with the pneumatic sander, they let it stop. Just waiting 20 seconds for a machine to spin down is too much time lost, while waiting just 3 seconds with the pneumatic is acceptable.

Now, as I mentioned in my first post, and as is mentioned in the patent application, once the pad is off the workpiece, the pad will spin up to a high speed, which is so high because the friction with the workpiece is gone. The motor is designed to have a workable power when the pad is on the workpiece, so when that friction is gone, all that power is put into the free spinning disc which as a result spins up to an undesirably high speed, basically turning it from a sander into a grinder.

To prevent this from happening, one bright mind eventually came up with the idea to install the pad brake, which is nothing more than a thin ring around the pad, adding extra friction to prevent the pad from spinning up.

Rick Christopherson said:
Once the sander is in contact with the wood, the pad break is actually a detriment to finish quality.

No, sorry, but once the sander is on the wood the pad break completely loses it's functionality. And it is certainly not detrimental to the finish quality either, as the pad brake isn't that old of an invention and people, including me, still got very fine results working with machines that had no pad brake at all in the pre-pad brake era.

Btw, I am used to working with both pneumatic and electric sanders since I was 8 years old, we had plenty in the family body shop. That means almost 30 years now for me.

 
To be honest with everyone, there is no right or wrong answer.  It is just a matter of preference.  Someone suggested this and I highly agree.  You can accomplish the same finished product, In my personal opinion you just need to get your technique down so that it doesn't cost you more time if you do it one way or the other.

-Dave
 
Alex, there was nothing in my posting to warrant your attitude and hostility. When a simple posting such as my previous one gets you this fired up, it leaves me with no desire to continue the discussion.
 
I don't blame you Rick...  It Happens often on the board and I haven't figured out why..
 
Why not try both and stick with what gives you the best results?  ???  Just about everything you do in the shop can be done multiple ways, what works for one person may not work for everyone.
 
Rick Christopherson said:
Alex, there was nothing in my posting to warrant your attitude and hostility. When a simple posting such as my previous one gets you this fired up, it leaves me with no desire to continue the discussion.

Rick,

I think we all agree that this forum has no place for personal attacks.  As Dave said, it does happen all too often.  The biggest loss here is your valued input as a member.

The beauty of this forum is that each member has the right to provide their input to a discussion whether others agree or disagree.  The problem with personal attacks are that they discourage input from all members, whether they are the ones being attacked or not.  Members are reluctant to post if their comments evoke attacks on one's judgment and integrity.

Please let's keep it civil.

Neill
 
Neill,

I agree we have a loss here.  I was really looking forward to what Rick had to say.  After reading these posts, I started thinking "have I been sanding the wrong way all this time or not".  So I really wanted to hear what he have to say.  Since then I had figured out the answer that it's a personal preference and no matter what anyone says it will be my belief that my statement is true.  Even if Brice has a really good answer or explanation for me.  ;D ;D ;D
 
to quote Colonel Klink  (actually his sgt)

" I know nuttin!"  That's my story and I will stick to it.
 
Back
Top