Two 1400'S or a 1400 and 1010?

[Jerry Work]

I do have several of the insert bits as well as the brazed bits.  They work well on most any material, including solid surface materials.  Economics are a function of how often you need to replace the carbide insert.  If you spent day in and day out cutting very abrasive materials they pay for themselves quickly.  If you only use them infrequently then I think the brazed bits would be more cost effective.

Jerry

Thanks, Jerry.  Yours is exactly the kind of detailed response I was looking for.   I will plan on buying a Festool bit the next time if they offer the profile I am then looking for.  Before then I have a lot of bits to at least dull, if not wear out.

One other bit-related question:  Have you Jerry (or anyone else) experience with the Festool bits that have replaceable inserts such as Item 491078 on page 44 of the 2006 USA catalogue?  Although initial cost is more, those would seem to be a wise purchase for anyone working regularly with man-made materials and laminates.  It's not clear to me if they are suitable for solid surface materials, but I have never worked with any of them.

 

[Tinker]

On 1400 or 1010:
I started out with the OF 1000 (my second Fetool toy purchased)  That was three or four years ago.  Since its intro to my shop, all my other routers (non dedicated) have merely gathered dust.  I decided I wanted a router (Festool) that would accept 1/2" bits so I would not need two sets of bits.  I don't like the idea of 1/4" bits, as i have had too many experiences with them creaping down into projects when using my PC 690.  (BTW: this has NEVER happened while using the 1000) I figured the 1400 would enable me to replace only with 1/2 bits.  Now i have used the 1400 a couple of times, I am back looking at 8mm bits for the OF 1000.  not because I don't like the 1400, but because I have discovered how much I reallly eenjoy woorking with the 1000
About bits: I cannot vouch for sharpness and durability of the Festool bits from the same sort of experience as Jerry Work.  I just do not spend as much time in a year as I am sure he does in a week.  I do try to buy the best bits and now have mostly Festool and Whiteside bits.  I had an experience a couple of years ago where I made a slight mistook on a project.  It appeared on a quick, and evidently not too thoughtful, look at the problem and I decided a minor alteration ov design would save me from tearing apart and re building completely.  I just changed the depth of cut to the corner edging and started routing away.  within seconds, it looked like I was trying to start a fire much as I had done it years ago by rubbing a stone with a stick while camping as a boy scout.  sparks were everywhere.  I had chewed right thru a pockethole screw and expected the corner of the carbide to be, at very least, chipped beyond its ability to cut again, even with a severe grinding.  Once I removed the bit (Festool bit), i checked visually.  Not even a scratch.  I have a reading glass in a drawer that seldom gets used in the shop.  Still could not find the slightest damage.  I have a magnifying glass hat I use for looking at disease symptoms (shrub/tree and grass, I'm a landscaper) when I have to see really close.  There is not even a scratch on that bit.  I then re chucked and ran it into a piece of hard maple to see if there was any damage I could not see.  It not only did not burn, it did not even slow down my OF 1000.  (I do not really hog into any wood with any router, but more nibble away)  That was atleast two years ago and I am still using the same bit.  I don't think I can give any better testimonial than that for any brand of bits.
Tinker

 

[John Langevin]

I received my first Festool router as Christmas present from my wife. I had asked for a 1010 but the lady at Woodcraft (who knows me) recommended the 1400 because she thought it would be more versatile and perhaps save me from buying a second router in the future. When I received it I didn't use it but simply handled it for a 1 week period agonizing over the choice, then I calculated the extra money I would spend to get it on the rail and be able to use PC bushings or a edge guide. In the end I went with the 1010 based on its light weight, delightful handling characteristics, and included accessories. I resolved to give it a thorough workout over the next few weeks and was well satisfied. Then I was commissioned (asked) by my wife to restore a 100 year old walnut mantel for the local preservation trust. I bought a Whiteside top-bearing bit ,made a simple template and went to cut the mantel., It went fine until the final pass when the bit suddenly took a gouge out of the shelf. I checked the bit and saw that the set screw had come out of the bearing which then slid up the bit shaft. Moral of the story:
1. Always check the bearing set screw for tightness
2. Even a fine company like Whiteside is not perfect

 

[richard.selwyn]

I know this is a bit off topic, but I think I saw that the big Festool Router, the 2000, is now only available without a Systainer (maybe in the US or elsewhere)  I am thinking of getting one and wondered if this might mean it was about to be replaced or phased out.  Anyone in the know?

 

[Hotwheels]

I bought the 1010 rather than a second 1400. It does have very nice handling --- no regrets.

 

[Ned]

...I saw that the big Festool Router, the 2000, is now only available without a Systainer (maybe in the US or elsewhere)

I saw this and and took it that the OF 2000's buyers were more likely to use it in a production shop situation where a nice storage container was unneeded. 

I think Festool offers several tools in Germany with or without Systainers.  The TS 55 for instance is offered with or without a Systainer, with or without a guide rail, and with or without electronic speed control and braking. 

 

[Lou Miller]

I saw a used 1010 for sale on Woodnet the other day and decided to pounce on it. It arrived today. Seems like a nice little router. Very light and easy to manage. The fact that it doesn't take 1/2" bits still bothers me though. I've got an enormous collection of 1/2" shank bits, and very few 1/4" ones. I'll probably go out and get some 1/4" bits to use specifically with the new (to me) router though.

 

[Dave Rudy]

Good decision Lou.  I came along right behind you and saw that it got snapped up.  I suggest that you pick up a couple of 8mm bits though before stocking up on 1/4s.  They seem to be a worthy substitute for 1/2" in lots of applications -- and you can use them with the 1400 as you know.  I'll look forward to reading your report as you get the tool into use.

Dave

 

[Overtime]

I'm with dave - before you load up on 1/4" bits try some 8mms. They are rock solid and feel much safer to use than 1/4" bits. And festool bits are very good. Enjoy the 1010 !
  After using the 8mm bits for a while  , the 1/2" shank looks like a telephone pole.

 

[Lou Miller]

I'd go with 8mm bits if Whiteside made them for my uses. They only make 1/4" and 1/2" bits in the styles I use though. As much as I like Festool stuff, I'm not buying their bits. I can get 3 Whiteside bits for the price of one Festool bit (at Holbren.com). I'm sure Festool bits are excellent, but there's no way they are three times better than Whiteside. Whiteside is top notch quality, so its not like I'm comparing Festool bits to something like the bits from MLCS (junk).

 

[Tinker]

I'd go with 8mm bits if Whiteside made them for my uses. They only make 1/4" and 1/2" bits in the styles I use though. As much as I like Festool stuff, I'm not buying their bits. I can get 3 Whiteside bits for the price of one Festool bit (at Holbren.com). I'm sure Festool bits are excellent, but there's no way they are three times better than Whiteside. Whiteside is top notch quality, so its not like I'm comparing Festool bits to something like the bits from MLCS (junk).

Lou, I have not had time to read all of the posts below, but I had the same problem.  I have a few 1/4" bits which were gathering dust as they did a lot of slipping in the colletts of my PC router.  some slippage even with my Milwaukee.  I could find nobody who sld 8mm other than Festool.  I have always like the Whiteside bits and called them on phone.  they do have several 8mm bits (3 yrs ago when I called) which were identified in catalogue with an *.  I promptly ordered a few of my most used bits in 8mm.  I also found that those 1/4" bits do NOT slip[ in the Festool OF 1000 collett.  So i have a bonus.  i did not throw out my 1/4" bits, I have a few 8mm bits and I liked the OF 1000 so much i finally sprung for the OF 1400 which can use all of my bit supply.  Any replacement bits will, however, be of 1/2" or 8mm from now on.  Even if WS discontinues the 8mm.
Tinker

 

[Lou Miller]

Thanks Tinker. I'll give Brian at Holbren a call then and see if he can get me some 8mm WS bits.

 

[sroxberg]

If you are going to use a Leigh D series jig, don't they require a half inch collet which makes the 1400 necessary anyway? 

I have the older OF-1000 router and it works fine with my Leigh jig. I recommend as others have stated using the 8mm bits and collet. Works great, although I will be purchasing a 1400 this summer.