Uh Oh, What the Studfinder Missed - Plumbing Tips Anyone?

[Grasshopper]

So I was attempting to install a desk I built for our kitchen.  The stud finder located a rather unusual stud in the form of our toilet drain up above.

I drove a few "feeler" nails through the pipe and a couple of pilot screws.  I knew I was in trouble when I saw black PVC shavings in the drill bit.

So my "simple install" has turned into a plumbing repair followed by a drywall repair.  I suppose if I look on the bright side…I guess I know where the studs are now .

I wanted to ask what the best way to repair the pvc plumbing drain would be.

There are 3 or 4 little holes ranging in size from a small pin nail up to a #4 screw size countersink drill bit. 

Do I need to cut out the section and place a coupler or something like that, or is there a simple compound that I can use to patch the small holes.  I realize this isn't a fun woodworking question, but I assume I am not the first to do something like this, and it is in the way of my woodworking now.

Help!!!

Fun:
[attachimg=1]

Close-up highlighting small holes:
[attachimg=2]

 

[hitandruntz]

I dont have anything to offer as far as plumbing but i dont trust the stud finders. Since i switched to a magnet i havent had any plumbing mishaps. Its not like i had a lot before but there  was a few And it was always after a weird  reading. 

 

[peter halle]

Welcome to the club!  Been there - done that.  I don't know of something to just place over it.  You might want to see if you can find "No-hub" connectors at the big box store.  They are rubber connectors with worm clamps on each end.  You will need to cut the pipe to install them.

Peter

 

[Worm Drive]

If you clean if off good, silicone would probably hold up. If it was mine, I would probably, cut the pipe and put in a PVC couple, if you are able to drop the lower section of the drain enough. Or use a Fernco couping.

 

[peter halle]

Here is a youtube video of what both Worm Drive and I mentioned:

 

[Grasshopper]

Thanks for the advice.  I'm off to the plumbing supply store

 

[Wuffles]

You could probably try some solvent weld and some squares of solvent weldable pipe. It'd be my go to in this particular situation before buying anything too posh to cover up. It'd be a permanent fix if it's any help.

 

[tiralie]

Get some epoxy putty and follow the directions to mix the compounds and fill the holes.
That stuff sticks to your fingers so use some gloves.
Tim

 

[mark60]

You can get a pipe repair clamp (rubber with a stainless sleeve) or you can epoxy screws in the holes.

 

[JCLP]

That's not good. I've done that before. Unfortunately I have no experience with plumbing, actually I hate it. When I have plumbing issues I use a life line and call a friend. Good luck.

 

[Wuffles]

On the bright side it's on a downward run of pipe. Is it a soil pipe? You don't want anything too pointy in there catching all and sundry.

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

Cut it out and replace it.

Why screw around with a drain from upstairs?

 

[jonny round boy]

No need to cut it out & replace. It's on a vertical piece - it doesn't hold standing water, it doesn't hold any pressure, so no problem.

If it were me, I'd cut/shape a few small pieces of pvc ABS* into plugs for the holes, and bond them in with solvent weld cement. There are other methods you could use to repair it (as mentioned above) but that would be my preference.

Plugging the holes will take literally 5-10 minutes, and you're done. Trying to cut it out & replace a section could disturb the pipe above and/or below, and cause further problems. It could easily turn into a full day's job.

*sorry, I meant ABS, not PVC.

 

[mike_aa]

Following up on what johnny round boy said, if you could find a compatible plastic rod the same size as the drill you used, you could cut short pieces to use as plugs creating an exact fit.

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

All day?  Its a 10 minute fix with a couple hubs and a handsaw. 

Why patch your drain pipe that is inside the wall? 

 

[Theshipstore]

I would use JB Weld epoxy on the holes, It a vertical pipe and as stated by JRB there is no pressure issues at all

 

[Wuffles]

All day?  Its a 10 minute fix with a couple hubs and a handsaw. 

Why patch your drain pipe that is inside the wall?

Whilst I take your point...

To be fair he said "could", and by "could" I am going to assume:

What's holding the weight of the vertical run of pipe? When he cuts through it what kind of drop can be expected? What pressure will this put on joints below the cut? A slide on joiner will support the weight of the run? Forever?

Been there, done that.

Patch up with solvent weld and walk away happy in the knowledge what was there structurally in the pipework is still there.

 

[nclemmons]

Why not use some stainless machine screws that are maybe 1/4" long and screw them in the holes with epoxy around the tip.  Sealed and easy.  5 minute fix.  If you go with machine screws, you run less risk of anything catching on them on the interior.

 

[Grasshopper]

OK,  I'm back from the store and am resolved to cut out a small section and couplings.

Based in feedback here, I initially got some rubber couplings (Pipeconx brand at my local plumbers supply store).  In my hands, it makes me a little nervous as a vertical pipe.  I'm not worried about water pressure, just the weight of the pipe over time. 

So I ran to the local big box and bought some ABS black plastic 3" couplers and some Oatey brand clear cleaner and Oatey brand all purpose cement.  For some reason this seems like a more "permanent" repair, but what do I know.

I'm posting photos below.  Your feedback is very appreciated:

Option A- Flexible Rubber Coupler:

[attachimg=1]

Option B- Stiff ABS Plastic Coupler with glue:
[attachimg=2]

 

[nclemmons]

You could cut the coupler in half and sandwich it over the holes with two pipe clamps and epoxy glue around the holes to seal them.  No need to cut out the pipe if you can easily patch the holes.